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Yeah, it’s all installed correctly, just one plug and the seat operates fine.

So I removed my front seat to find a noise it’s been making. Didn’t find the noise but when I reinstalled the seat and turned the car on I got a “car restraint system” malfunction warning that says to take it to dealer. I have BimmerCode, can that clear it? Any other way to clear it?

I have no means to log. And I can trigger it cold or warm. That being said my trip to work is only 15 min, so it typically happens on the colder side. The thing is, with all nannie’s on, once the car exhibits any rear wheel spin, after the next stop it acts up. I can hit the TC button once and...

I can make mine repeat the issue consistently. Here’s what I do: I drive in normal mode with all nannie’s on. On a dry (or wet) road I give it just enough gas to cause a momentary loss of traction. The next time the car comes to a stop I try to pull away from a stop normally and I get what...

I get the distinct feeling this car is wearing braces. Just look at that smile.

Ordered this one too.

Checking out and found this …..

I had 2011 white STI. That thing was a beast. I loved that car and regret selling it every time I think of it.

I’m in my car with my 15 year old daughter and in the course of our drive we saw three 370’s. Each time they saw us or got near they revved their engines with their fart can exhausts. My daughter asked ”why are they ‘flex’n on you’? I laughed and said something of the effect about them having...

Hmm. Not sure this car will be collectable in any real sense. Too much an oddball, but not in the good way. In 30 years it will be one of those cars at the end end of a tech period that threw a Hail Mary but didn’t quite check all the boxes. It will be a car that deprecates in value to a point...

Ah, thank you very much. This helps.

I’m trying to remove my interior door panel to try and track down a noise. But I’m having a problem with the screw behind the door lever. Not the two screws that are in the door handle that you pull the door shut with, but the door lever that you open the door with. The single little screw...

I’m trying to remove my interior door panel. But I’m having a problem with the screw behind the door lever. Not the two screws that are in the door handle that you pull the door shut with, but the door lever that you open the door with. The single little screw behind a little plastic square...

Without a logo it reminds me of a kit car.

I had a vr6. Best sounding engine I ever had. Especially once I put an exhaust on it.

Sport. But coming from a brz, the brz is just way quicker. It’s lighter.

Is there a spec sheet or list of specs on the forum of what I should give the shop?

So I’m trying to decide on which direction to go for a street driven car to gain more turn in responsiveness. what is the most effective route? springs, sways, lower control arms with alignment? Can an alignment with stock suspension do it?

I agree with it being software related. I also believe the car is pre-acting with the TC. For me the car acts perfectly normal in normal or sport mode until I lose traction the first time after start up. Once that happens then it’s like the car assumes the conditions are bad and it pulls power...

Has anyone, in an effort to make the car feel a bet more connected, went for more rigid engine mounts. What were the results like?