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You need to have techstream installed to use ISTA. It's a slightly tweaked toyota version of ISTA.

Since I have a HPFP upgrade now I figured I would raise the boost in the low and midrange. Since I can now without maxing out the HPFP like I would with the OEM HPFP. 25-26 flat across made it a torque beast. Any undulations in the surface and the tires spin slightly, as you can see in the RPM...

Apologies for not seeing this before. I chose the MAD intake because it was cheap. haha. Figured if it sucked I wouldn't have a big investment in it. It ended up working well. I bought the CTS inlet and then Paradigm inlet. The paradigm inlet ended up fitting like ass and had a weird welded in...

Agreed. I would be more suspicious of the price than the mileage.

Horsepower doesn't exist. Torque does. Just like white New Balances not existing without Corvette owners.

It feels faster because some of the torque request is actually fed to the speakers to make the sound. So, turning it off allows all of the torque request to go to the engine instead.

should be fine in rear. What wheel offset?

ThAt'S FoR racE Cars. nOT For PeOPLE ThAt CarE AbOUt waRraNTiES anD obSCUre old Tv SHoW rEfereNCES.

It just releases the piston. You still have to wind it in with the tool

Cool story. What does that have to do with the OP's question about 305/40/19?

Not needed with the right tools.

Ah, same as the ones I used. Thanks!

Ball end T wrench is what I use https://a.co/d/bXZnHu8

Works great on cars with batteries under the hood. Since the Supra battery is in the trunk, under a board, it's a major pain in the ass to get back there to hit the button. I couldn't even get back there, I had to have my wife go spelunking for me and pull the hatch emergency release.

The endlink will never get close to the tie rod as you are showing with the blue arrows in the first photo. In the second photo, the sway bar wouldn't come close unless the end links were significantly shorter. Do you have aftermarket coilovers or OEM struts? In these photos, you can see even...

Hitting what? Endlinks? How are tie rod ends going to help with that? They shouldn't even be close to the endlinks. Are you sure he wasn't pointing to the caster arm? Ignore the arrows in these photos but you can see the tie rods shouldn't be close to the endlink at all.

are you 100% sure? They kinda look dimmer at certain angles. Have you taken a photo of both head on and compared?

I understand, but it's one of the reasons I'm not a Jaybee4 fan. Also, Burger can eat my nuts.

I listed the adapters I used in the BBK thread. Just curious which ones he has used.

Did they explain why they recommended those? I have a hard time believing they are maxing out the toe adjustment.