Turn it one click off. All traction on I found is grandma mode. With just one click off, not fully off, my supra is running with the big boys in advanced group with very little intervention, usually when I do really stupid things and then I am glad it's helping. I have yet to feel like it's...
Agreed, but it's probably the easiest way. I did it with just moving the knuckle like others are saying.
Plus he needs to do an alignment anyway after installing coilovers.
Oh, you are talking about the rear. I totally misunderstood.
Easy. Loosen the camber adjustment bolt at the subframe, now you will be able to move the LCA in/out.
You can easily just replace the rear pads without also doing the fronts. Just make sure you bed the pads in properly. The system does the balancing. If you replace with the same compound, there will be no shift.
Good reading...
Warping rotors is a myth. 98% of the time the shudder is from improper bedding-in of new pads.
To be safe, measure the thickness of your rotors to see how much more life you have. Or just swap in new ones and not worry about it. I've for sure been guilty of putting fresh rotors on prematurely.
Right, that is why I stated that maybe I am too big of a snowflake, because the "JAP" part is what I see first.
I already spoke my peace about your previous plate, however, that also is probably feeding into my view of your new plate.
OEM rotors, although from your photos it looks like you have a ton of life left in your current rotors.
Here are your options for those:
OEM rotors (BMW part #'s)
Front Left: 34116860911 (348mm)
Front Right: 34116860912 (348mm)
Rear: 34216860925 (345mm)
Brembo Rotors (people that make the...
After 20 track days I basically can’t see out my windshield if the sun hits it.
20 track days of fun or keeping it in the garage stressing over it? I choose fun.
The traction arm and upper arms are 74.
129 is probably "make damn sure this doesn't move" spec from BMW.
I remember some of these OEM bolts being a SOB to loosen the first time.