Clicking/Ticking noise coming from driver side.

METAL

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Doubt the dust boot was the cause. Taking part and reinstalling sounds like the fix.
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Mk5phtm

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Got an alignment the other day as well and heard no issues. However, driving it today, I got the sound again. Itā€™s nowhere near as loud as it was and I only hear it about 2/10 times when I turn the wheel all the way to the right. It sounds like plastic rubbing on something but still not sure what it is. Definitely not as pronounced as it was though but still need to get to the bottom of this :/
 

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Update: I took off the wheel and turned the steering wheel and found that the sound was coming from the strut bearing as it turned. It was slightly misaligned, and I say slightly, I mean barely off. As the wheel turned, the bearing would kind of separate by a little and cause the clicking/ binding sound. I took off the strut mount and made sure the mount and bearings were all good. I then reinstalled that and instead of bringing up the entire strut, I attached the dust boot to the mount and held the spring up in place while I had someone else jack up the strut until the spring sat in place at the bottom. This seemed to have fixed the issue but weā€™ll see in the coming days
 

Mk5phtm

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Did you ever get this resolved? I think I have the same issue after installing Swift springs and pretty sure it's the bearings as well. It's not that bad tbh, but instead of buying new OEM mounts, I may just get the Vorshlag camber plates and be done with it.
Iā€™m also on swift springs and I found that mine comes from the bearings on the strut mount. Not really sure why even though I line it up perfectly and test it afterwards. It goes away but then comes back within a few days. Did you ever get yours solved?
 

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I wonder if there are any aftermarket options for top hats with new bearings you guys can use.
 

Mk5phtm

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I wonder if there are any aftermarket options for top hats with new bearings you guys can use.
There definitely are. However, after lifting the car AGAIN, I found that the wheel bearings on the strut mount keep on separating a little when I drive even after I popped them back into place every time. Iā€™m not sure why this is happening. Iā€™ve narrowed it down to this being the cause of the sound. Itā€™s happened on both sides and both bearings are still good and nothing is broken. One of them is actually brand new since the old one cracked and I replaced it. Keep in mind that my bump stops arenā€™t cut
 

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METAL

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There definitely are. However, after lifting the car AGAIN, I found that the wheel bearings on the strut mount keep on separating a little when I drive even after I popped them back into place every time. Iā€™m not sure why this is happening. Iā€™ve narrowed it down to this being the cause of the sound. Itā€™s happened on both sides and both bearings are still good and nothing is broken. One of them is actually brand new since the old one cracked and I replaced it. Keep in mind that my bump stops arenā€™t cut
Could be the type of springs then. I have HKS with no sounds.
 

Mk5phtm

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Could be the type of springs then. I have HKS with no sounds.
Maybe. I have swift springs but the issue now is that others have them too with no issues :/
 

METAL

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Maybe. I have swift springs but the issue now is that others have them too with no issues :/
Install method. You should remove full assembly vs only unbolting the single nut in the top hat.
 

Mk5phtm

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Install method. You should remove full assembly vs only unbolting the single nut in the top hat.
I tried but tbh, I couldnā€™t get the strut off even after loosening everything
 

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There definitely are. However, after lifting the car AGAIN, I found that the wheel bearings on the strut mount keep on separating a little when I drive even after I popped them back into place every time. Iā€™m not sure why this is happening. Iā€™ve narrowed it down to this being the cause of the sound. Itā€™s happened on both sides and both bearings are still good and nothing is broken. One of them is actually brand new since the old one cracked and I replaced it. Keep in mind that my bump stops arenā€™t cut
Yep this was what was causing my issue as well, although only one of mine separated and it wasn't nearly that bad. The reason mine separated was because I used the lazy method of leaving the strut connected to the lower bearing and only pull out the tophat section...which is what causes the separation. The easy fix is to just replace those OEM tophats which has the new bearings already, but in my case I just had RSR coilovers installed which was the much better decision anyway.
 

Mk5phtm

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Yep this was what was causing my issue as well, although only one of mine separated and it wasn't nearly that bad. The reason mine separated was because I used the lazy method of leaving the strut connected to the lower bearing and only pull out the tophat section...which is what causes the separation. The easy fix is to just replace those OEM tophats which has the new bearings already, but in my case I just had RSR coilovers installed which was the much better decision anyway.
Damn one of them is brand new ?
Theyā€™re not broken or damaged in anyway either. I simply removed the mount and clicked them back into place. They just seem to keep coming undone though
 

METAL

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Damn one of them is brand new ?
Theyā€™re not broken or damaged in anyway either. I simply removed the mount and clicked them back into place. They just seem to keep coming undone though
I think the bearing coming apart just once may be enough to compromise it.
 
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wfujay

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I think the bearing coming part just once may be enough to compromise it.
This. It compromises the bearing just enough to cause noises. The functionality is fine otherwise, but it's an annoyance that I couldn't deal with.
 

baagel

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My theory is that because the hat is aluminum, it flexes a bit more than a full iron rotor and if the lugs aren't torqued down 100% flat to at least 103ftlbs, the wheel will leverage the rotor angle away from the hub slightly due to weight/camber slapping it back into place against the hub on the opposite side of the set screw, causing that clicking noise that is wheel speed and weight dependent. This might explain why a 100% stock vehicle can have it. Improper mounting procedure, torque specs or debris in the threads could cause this. Hopefully this helps others.
Thanks for this finding, I've been having this clicking sound since I've had new wheels on, over time it got louder and was quite noticeable. Recently had the wheels off and had the bolts torqued to 103 lb-ft, the noises are completely gone.
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