DIY Forged Internals in the comfort of your garage without removing the engine; and how I almost blew my engine.

[MisterSkiz]

Great job man!!!

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[OldHead-MKV-Owner]

Make sure to do your retorques... i did 3 and 3 oil changes before I let it get into boost... all that by 500miles.

It went pretty smooth for the most part.

Issues that arise:

Disassembly:

- Cradle bolts and oil pump bolts are weak and will shred if the socket isn't perfectly on them.

-Buy all the bolts and tools ahead of time to reduce delays.

- This is a good opportunity to replace the plastic oil pump

- I used a machine shop to clean, install valve springs, and deck the head for $400. Shaved a lot of time and money on tools I don't need in the long run. Do this in the beginning.

- I had to jack one side place wheel ramp under that side then jack the center with a wooden block to get the car high enough to place jack stands on both sides.

Reassembly:

- I missed the ground on the back of the engine block, caused significant delays trying to figure this out.

- Reset adaptations before start up, reach out to tuner for a new map before start up.

- I didn't really have any other issues putting things back together other than the ground.

- I'm going to let this break in for 500 miles before I start doing pulls and sending logs.

 

[lucky phil]

Make sure to do your retorques... i did 3 and 3 oil changes before I let it get into boost... all that by 500miles.

Re torques on what?
Phil

 

[OldHead-MKV-Owner]

Re torques on what?
Phil

Head bolts

 

[OldHead-MKV-Owner]

Head bolts

Or studs

 

[lucky phil]

Or studs

Totally unnecessary on a modern engine that uses an MLS gasket like the B58 does. In fact it's the last thing you want to do. Back in the day with older engines that used composite head gaskets then sure. They had a mailable fire ring and would relax after some heat cycles but MLS head gaskets with spring steel fire rings you pull them down and then leave them. If I use ARP head studs or bolts I run in the bolts in a fixture in the vice but that's about running in the stud and nut threads a little for more consistent clamping loads when tightening not the head gasket.
Also if you build and engine with a modern well executed plateaux hone then you only need to drop the oil and filter after a few hundred miles and then maybe again in a few thousand. The oil comes out nice and clean with plateaux honing not like the old days where it was full of ring and cylinder debris from the ring break in. Rings seat quickly these days when the bore and hone is done right. Three oil changes in 500 miles is just wasting oil if it's rebuilt by someone that knows what they're doing.
Phil

 

[lucky phil]

I might have jumped the gun, but I am currently on the reinstall steps, i've installed the pistons and rods and will get to the oil pump and oil pan next.

I've been taking it very slow and ensuring I research everything before I go into the next step. I've put well over 25 hours of work into it over the course of a month. I've been learning as I go.

5150 website has the best price that I can find on the pistons and rods as a set and they offer a ton of variations.

I went with the OEM gasket, mainly because papadakis did, and I don't plan on going over 900hp.

For me, the head had damage in cylinder 6 so I had to get it machined, but there are tools you can buy to check the surface of the block.

The tuner, Pureboost, recommended against going down in compression.

Just looking at this thread again. Papadakis B58 drift engines use O rings blocks with copper head gaskets. Mind you they spin to 8900rpm and 1200 HP with a nitro shot.
Phil

 

[Evolution]

I actually have to agree with Phil on this one. With the +500 engines I have built in my life, I have never re torqued head bolts/studs.

 

[Supraman40]

Totally unnecessary on a modern engine that uses an MLS gasket like the B58 does. In fact it's the last thing you want to do. Back in the day with older engines that used composite head gaskets then sure. They had a mailable fire ring and would relax after some heat cycles but MLS head gaskets with spring steel fire rings you pull them down and then leave them. If I use ARP head studs or bolts I run in the bolts in a fixture in the vice but that's about running in the stud and nut threads a little for more consistent clamping loads when tightening not the head gasket.
Also if you build and engine with a modern well executed plateaux hone then you only need to drop the oil and filter after a few hundred miles and then maybe again in a few thousand. The oil comes out nice and clean with plateaux honing not like the old days where it was full of ring and cylinder debris from the ring break in. Rings seat quickly these days when the bore and hone is done right. Three oil changes in 500 miles is just wasting oil if it's rebuilt by someone that knows what they're doing.
Phil

Thank you again for your wisdom Dr. Phil, I mean Lucky Phil.

 

[Supraman40]

I'm just about 500 miles in, the engine is so smooth, with some music on coming to a stop it feels like auto stop kicked in. I will do an oil change next week and take a close look at the oil filter.

 

[Supraman40]

I just did the oil change and inspected the filter, no issues, no surprises. I'll send a sample to be analyzed next oil change.

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