Looking for a good deal on Supra

Kendogg

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Again, you are using OTD in the wrong way. You are saying the best you've seen is $50.5k OTD but then saying it excludes taxes, fees, etc. THAT IS NOT OTD!!!! Hence why so many people use it wrong and are not providing proper info. OTD means OUT THE DOOR. The dollar amount you need in total to drive the car home if paying cash or writing a check. Not a price and THEN adding fees and other charges on top.
Depends on the state. I'm from Texas where OTD always includes taxes and registration fees. In Texas they always include that in the overall purchase amount and financing amount.

I moved to Oklahoma around a 1.5 years ago and bought my Type R here. In Oklahoma, they generally never include the taxes and registration in the total OTD amount. They never will include that in financing, unless you specifically ask for it. And if you do it that way, they have you overpay the dealership the tax amount, and then they cut you a check that you then deposit, and you still go to the tax office to pay the tax amount.

You then have some states where I believe you do not even pay taxes on your new car purchase. So that's why I always try to be clear that the price is (for example) $50.5k and not including taxes and state fees. In Oklahoma, that would be around $53k after taxes and fees. If one was to buy it for this price in Texas, it would be closer to $54k. If I was to buy it for $50.5k in Texas and trade-in my current car, I would pay around $51,700 after taxes. If someone is a 100% disabled Vet and in Oklahoma, they wouldn't pay taxes and it would then truly be $50.5k OTD. If someone was a 100% disabled Vet in Texas, then they would still pay the full tax amount and the OTD would be $54k.

It just all varies state to state and situation to situation. How much the dealer is selling to you after dealership fees is the best apples to apples OTD comparison. But buyers agreement has the true details.
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2k20HTownMKV

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Best way to see whether or not you are getting a good deal is just look at the price before TTL. Every city/state has a different tax rate, plus different doc fees that come into account that can be negotiated out or are rolled into the TTL. OTD fee on forums is useless to provide unless you can tell someone where you live and provide the full breakdown of car pricing. Just provide the price before TTL thats really all that matters at the end of the day.
 

Cybermoose

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Hey Lizard, when'd you buy? I got close to the same discount from Toyota Direct here in Columbus and got exactly what I wanted, but for awhile I thought they were the only ones in town who actually had Supras on the lot. I had looked around for awhile in fall trying to find some, and none showed up except for TD (and then they sat, and sat, and sat...and thus, the great deal I got).

TD's also a few miles closer to the house, so that helps, a bit, too.
 

Lizard 1

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Depends on the state. I'm from Texas where OTD always includes taxes and registration fees. In Texas they always include that in the overall purchase amount and financing amount.

I moved to Oklahoma around a 1.5 years ago and bought my Type R here. In Oklahoma, they generally never include the taxes and registration in the total OTD amount. They never will include that in financing, unless you specifically ask for it. And if you do it that way, they have you overpay the dealership the tax amount, and then they cut you a check that you then deposit, and you still go to the tax office to pay the tax amount.

You then have some states where I believe you do not even pay taxes on your new car purchase. So that's why I always try to be clear that the price is (for example) $50.5k and not including taxes and state fees. In Oklahoma, that would be around $53k after taxes and fees. If one was to buy it for this price in Texas, it would be closer to $54k. If I was to buy it for $50.5k in Texas and trade-in my current car, I would pay around $51,700 after taxes. If someone is a 100% disabled Vet and in Oklahoma, they wouldn't pay taxes and it would then truly be $50.5k OTD. If someone was a 100% disabled Vet in Texas, then they would still pay the full tax amount and the OTD would be $54k.

It just all varies state to state and situation to situation. How much the dealer is selling to you after dealership fees is the best apples to apples OTD comparison. But buyers agreement has the true details.
Out the door is simply out the door. What you are allowed financed is a % of that total and in some cases, they will only finance a set % or even all of it.

But no matter what state (I can attest), if you use the term "Out the door", it means the total dollars you need to drive the car home in total. Meaning, pretend you had a wad of cash or a check and didn't need financing. That dollar amount is the total out the door cost. Period. No matter what state. They don't give you a quote differently unless they are hiding something or trying to get you to come in. If you asked what the total including all fees and taxes (Out the door) and you are bringing a check, that's what they would quote you.

Same with a trade which muddies the water even more in these threads of quotes. If you have a trade and they deduct and your total is WAY lower than if you didn't and then proceeded to EXCLUDE that in your info, you aren't telling the members the whole deal.

Hence why these threads are silly and run in so many different ways as most people have no idea what OTD really means.

Again, doesn't mean anything as to the taxes and fees. When you give them the county and state you live in, they can dictate the EXACT dollars out the door. Trust me. I have been in the OEM business for 27 years.
 

Lizard 1

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Hey Lizard, when'd you buy? I got close to the same discount from Toyota Direct here in Columbus and got exactly what I wanted, but for awhile I thought they were the only ones in town who actually had Supras on the lot. I had looked around for awhile in fall trying to find some, and none showed up except for TD (and then they sat, and sat, and sat...and thus, the great deal I got).

TD's also a few miles closer to the house, so that helps, a bit, too.

I called it Toyota East and meant Toyota Direct. Nick is the sales guy that I know and we trust. They aren't the only ones. Germain has them also. What is weird is that not all dealers list them in stock on their sites. We looked at Toyota Direct and they actually didn't have any listed online but Germain did.
 

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Out the door is simply out the door. What you are allowed financed is a % of that total and in some cases, they will only finance a set % or even all of it.
They will finance as much as they are comfortable with. Usually depends on the finance institution, debt to income, credit score, etc. I just refinance my Type R cause of the recent rate cuts. They financed my used car at 113% of value. When I bought my Type R, I rolled over negative equity and bought warranties, gap, etc. They financed 127% at that time.

But no matter what state (I can attest), if you use the term "Out the door", it means the total dollars you need to drive the car home in total. Meaning, pretend you had a wad of cash or a check and didn't need financing. That dollar amount is the total out the door cost. Period. No matter what state. They don't give you a quote differently unless they are hiding something or trying to get you to come in. If you asked what the total including all fees and taxes (Out the door) and you are bringing a check, that's what they would quote you.
Out the door varies from state to state. To be a true apples to apples, we should consider OTD as the price the dealership sold you the car for after their dealership fees, no trade, no accessories, no required financing. No way you have bought in Oklahoma then. You drive the car home without paying taxes. You are responsible to pay the tax man in within 30 days. That's why if you are shopping in around in a state like this (others are the same way), OTD will not include taxes.

Dealerships do give you different quotes depending on the situation. I have seen it often. You contact them up and find out the advertised price is only possible if you are trading in and/or financing through them. This is always one of the first questions I will ask them. What is their OTD selling price after dealer fees, I'll pay taxes on my own, excluding I have a trade, and I'm using my own financing.

Same with a trade which muddies the water even more in these threads of quotes. If you have a trade and they deduct and your total is WAY lower than if you didn't and then proceeded to EXCLUDE that in your info, you aren't telling the members the whole deal.
That's why I think the price they are selling the car for after dealers fees but before taxes, trade, finance, etc, is the best OTD comparison.

Hence why these threads are silly and run in so many different ways as most people have no idea what OTD really means.

Again, doesn't mean anything as to the taxes and fees. When you give them the county and state you live in, they can dictate the EXACT dollars out the door. Trust me. I have been in the OEM business for 27 years.
They can be difficult to compare a true OTD comparison. As I and others have mentioned, seems best to call OTD the price of the car the dealership is selling to you, not including taxes, registration, trade, finance, etc. But that would mean in most cases, your OTD price is then not how much

Out the door varies from state to state. Do be a true apples to apples, we should consider OTD as the price the dealership sold you the car for after their dealership fees, no trade, no accessories, no required financing. That's how dealerships do OTD in Oklahoma. That is not how dealerships in Texas do OTD.
 

Lizard 1

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They will finance as much as they are comfortable with. Usually depends on the finance institution, debt to income, credit score, etc. I just refinance my Type R cause of the recent rate cuts. They financed my used car at 113% of value. When I bought my Type R, I rolled over negative equity and bought warranties, gap, etc. They financed 127% at that time.



Out the door varies from state to state. To be a true apples to apples, we should consider OTD as the price the dealership sold you the car for after their dealership fees, no trade, no accessories, no required financing. No way you have bought in Oklahoma then. You drive the car home without paying taxes. You are responsible to pay the tax man in within 30 days. That's why if you are shopping in around in a state like this (others are the same way), OTD will not include taxes.

Dealerships do give you different quotes depending on the situation. I have seen it often. You contact them up and find out the advertised price is only possible if you are trading in and/or financing through them. This is always one of the first questions I will ask them. What is their OTD selling price after dealer fees, I'll pay taxes on my own, excluding I have a trade, and I'm using my own financing.



That's why I think the price they are selling the car for after dealers fees but before taxes, trade, finance, etc, is the best OTD comparison.



They can be difficult to compare a true OTD comparison. As I and others have mentioned, seems best to call OTD the price of the car the dealership is selling to you, not including taxes, registration, trade, finance, etc. But that would mean in most cases, your OTD price is then not how much

Out the door varies from state to state. Do be a true apples to apples, we should consider OTD as the price the dealership sold you the car for after their dealership fees, no trade, no accessories, no required financing. That's how dealerships do OTD in Oklahoma. That is not how dealerships in Texas do OTD.

You win... You're not getting what I am saying... If you do NOT pay taxes in OK on your way home from another state, you know what the OTD is, then. You aren't getting what I am saying. When you say OTD, it is what you pay to drive away. If you pay your state taxes when you register the car, then that is in addition and the OTD reflects that. You don't pay your own taxes in every state. If you buy out of state, you will on set occasion based on each state's guidelines. You know that going in... Therefore, if you are not paying tax based on where you live, the dealership will indicate that and know that and therefore reflect that in the total pricing.

If you want to make it easier on yourself and want a price BEFORE taxes and fees, then please do us all a favor and not use the term OTD...
 

Kendogg

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You win... You're not getting what I am saying... If you do NOT pay taxes in OK on your way home from another state, you know what the OTD is, then. You aren't getting what I am saying. When you say OTD, it is what you pay to drive away. If you pay your state taxes when you register the car, then that is in addition and the OTD reflects that. You don't pay your own taxes in every state. If you buy out of state, you will on set occasion based on each state's guidelines. You know that going in... Therefore, if you are not paying tax based on where you live, the dealership will indicate that and know that and therefore reflect that in the total pricing.

If you want to make it easier on yourself and want a price BEFORE taxes and fees, then please do us all a favor and not use the term OTD...
So you're saying, we should not compare OTD, since you define OTD as total paid with taxes. Would should be comparing the amount the dealership is selling the car for. And just don't use the term OTD. Ok, lets do that. Spread the word.
 

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Best I’ve found locally, is $50.5k. Premium. Msrp right under $57k.

Ignore the otd part on the email. That’s just the term these Oklahoma dealerships use.
A5633758-DA18-40F3-B7AB-8DB6A0D31A33.jpeg
 

Lizard 1

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And, Ken... The banks finance what you deserve based on your credit worthiness.
So you're saying, we should not compare OTD, since you define OTD as total paid with taxes. Would should be comparing the amount the dealership is selling the car for. And just don't use the term OTD. Ok, lets do that. Spread the word.

Buddy, OTD stands for "OUT" "THE" "DOOR". What that means to everyone should be what you pay (saying this for the millionth time) to take the car off the lot. If you pay taxes? That's included. If you don't and do that later, that's your state's deal and OTD excludes that and should be noted. Otherwise, we are saying that the cost is BEFORE TAXES AND FEES and that is NOT OTD!!!! No matter where you live or what your taxes are during the transaction.

If you buy a car here in Columbus, Franklin county sales tax is 8%. In Marion, OH, the sales tax is 7.5%. SOOOOOOOO... If I buy a car "OTD" and I live in Marion, OH, the OTD will be cheaper because the tax rate is lower.

Now, what I am saying on these threads is that people like yourself are saying they can get a new Supra for $50k "OTD" and that's possible if no taxes or fees are paid because you pay those when you register the car. NOTE THAT STUFF!!! Seriously, why are you arguing this?
 

Lizard 1

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Best I’ve found locally, is $50.5k. Premium. Msrp right under $57k.

Ignore the otd part on the email. That’s just the term these Oklahoma dealerships use.
A5633758-DA18-40F3-B7AB-8DB6A0D31A33.jpeg
That dealer is using OTD to lure you in. You will apparently not pay OK tax until you register the car which is fine, but how much in title and fees do you pay at the dealership? If there are ZERO fees paid at time of pickup and you pay only what the dealer is charging ($50,500.00) and THEN you pay all those fees at the BMV/DMV, then yes... that is an OTD pricing.

HOWEVER, OK still charges you "Doc Fees" which are NOT capped like here in Ohio. In Ohio, Doc Fees are $250 no matter where you go. It is the cap and they all charge it. In OK, it ranges from $235 and up. You will still get that because the dealer still does admin stuff with the title. I also believe that if you are a state citizen, the car dealer will charge you sales tax on the car. ONLY IF you live outside OK will you not pay sales tax as it is assumed you will in your own state which is typical with most out of state purchases but you will still pay the doc fees and any admin fees they want.

I also think some states charge an excise tax, but not sure with OK.

OH has it simple. You pay the sales tax of the county you live, the doc fee ($250) and potentially any admin fees they try and put on, but can be negotiated. That's it. So, OTD in any state should and would include doc fees, admin fees, tax if living within the state (most cases) and potentially things like excise taxes depending on where you live and what can be charged.

OTD looks like this on the one we bought:

$XX,XXX Negotiated price of car
$250 Doc Fees
$X,XXX Ohio Franklin County sales tax (8%)

OTD is all of those added up. Not the top dollar line.
 

Kendogg

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And, Ken... The banks finance what you deserve based on your credit worthiness.



Buddy, OTD stands for "OUT" "THE" "DOOR". What that means to everyone should be what you pay (saying this for the millionth time) to take the car off the lot. If you pay taxes? That's included. If you don't and do that later, that's your state's deal and OTD excludes that and should be noted. Otherwise, we are saying that the cost is BEFORE TAXES AND FEES and that is NOT OTD!!!! No matter where you live or what your taxes are during the transaction.

If you buy a car here in Columbus, Franklin county sales tax is 8%. In Marion, OH, the sales tax is 7.5%. SOOOOOOOO... If I buy a car "OTD" and I live in Marion, OH, the OTD will be cheaper because the tax rate is lower.

Now, what I am saying on these threads is that people like yourself are saying they can get a new Supra for $50k "OTD" and that's possible if no taxes or fees are paid because you pay those when you register the car. NOTE THAT STUFF!!! Seriously, why are you arguing this?
I thought we are trying to find an accurate way to compare apples to apples? Why would you then want to compare otd? Just compare the dealership selling price of the car. This way if the dealership sells it to you for $48k, I can approach them and get them to sell it to me for $48k.

I guess I no longer know what you are arguing about here. You are trying to say that OTD includes price of car, dealer fees, accessories, +/- equity, tax rates, state fees, document fees, county fees, trade-in tax credits? From my years of car buying in Texas, I 100% agree with you. From my car shopping and buying experience in Oklahoma, I 100% do not. I figured this out quick when I thought I had a dealership willing to sell their Type R for $2k under msrp. I feel OTD depends on the state. You say this isn't so. We'll just disagree on that. But from buying a lot of cars in Texas, I do like using OTD to include everything. I just can't do that here in Oklahoma. It makes it too difficult.

And like you said, OTD has a lot of line items to consider. That is impossible to get people to post that here. Better to keep it to "dealer selling price," or something similar.
 

Kendogg

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That dealer is using OTD to lure you in. You will apparently not pay OK tax until you register the car which is fine, but how much in title and fees do you pay at the dealership? If there are ZERO fees paid at time of pickup and you pay only what the dealer is charging ($50,500.00) and THEN you pay all those fees at the BMV/DMV, then yes... that is an OTD pricing.

HOWEVER, OK still charges you "Doc Fees" which are NOT capped like here in Ohio. In Ohio, Doc Fees are $250 no matter where you go. It is the cap and they all charge it. In OK, it ranges from $235 and up. You will still get that because the dealer still does admin stuff with the title. I also believe that if you are a state citizen, the car dealer will charge you sales tax on the car. ONLY IF you live outside OK will you not pay sales tax as it is assumed you will in your own state which is typical with most out of state purchases but you will still pay the doc fees and any admin fees they want.

I also think some states charge an excise tax, but not sure with OK.

OH has it simple. You pay the sales tax of the county you live, the doc fee ($250) and potentially any admin fees they try and put on, but can be negotiated. That's it. So, OTD in any state should and would include doc fees, admin fees, tax if living within the state (most cases) and potentially things like excise taxes depending on where you live and what can be charged.

OTD looks like this on the one we bought:

$XX,XXX Negotiated price of car
$250 Doc Fees
$X,XXX Ohio Franklin County sales tax (8%)

OTD is all of those added up. Not the top dollar line.
In this situation from this dealership, they used OTD because that is their total selling price. It would look like this:

$56,983 MSRP
$6,733 dealer discount
$50,250 negotiated price of car
$250 document fees
$50,500 (what dealers here call OTD)
$2,272 Oklahoma vehicle sales tax

$52,772 OTD
 

Kendogg

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And, Ken... The banks finance what you deserve based on your credit worthiness.
To a point. It's up to the financial institution as well. You can have the credit worthiness they require, but they still will have their max. The bank I used will not exceed 130% on new. I believe USAA was at 135%. I know the manufactures financial will go up pretty high. Most the credit unions I've worked with are at 110-120%. Didn't matter what my credit score or worthiness was.
 

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No one should be talking about "out the door" people simply use this term because its some catch phrase they've heard over the years. As it's been said "Out the door" means and will always mean, price paid after taxes, title, dealership fee's, etc... I think talking about price can be extremely helpful for prospecting buyers but we should only be talking about the price of the car itself as talking about OTD would only be helpful for someone buying the same car in the same state at the same dealership.
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