MCS 2wayNR spring rates for autox/track days

[downshift00]

I am new to the supra platform. I am looking into buying some MCS 2WNR and from what I have seen on here is that people tend to run slightly stiffer fronts than rears(non divorced). i.e. 650/550 or 550/500 F/R. So I contacted a vendor and they are suggesting a 650/800 (non divorced rear). I really dont want the rear to be twitchy AF. Car will be mostly autoxed on a square setup on 295s. I mentioned that I am concerned about the rear being to lively and they suggested bringing the rear rates down to 750 then. Can someone tell me if I am in the wrong wanting the rear rates to be a little softer than the fronts to help control oversteer?

Thanks,

Scott

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[Evolution]

If auto-x is going to be your primary use, I would use their rates. Getting the car to rotate is goal. At least start from there and see how it goes.

 

[RWDriver89]

I am new to the supra platform. I am looking into buying some MCS 2WNR and from what I have seen on here is that people tend to run slightly stiffer fronts than rears(non divorced). i.e. 650/550 or 550/500 F/R. So I contacted a vendor and they are suggesting a 650/800 (non divorced rear). I really dont want the rear to be twitchy AF. Car will be mostly autoxed on a square setup on 295s. I mentioned that I am concerned about the rear being to lively and they suggested bringing the rear rates down to 750 then. Can someone tell me if I am in the wrong wanting the rear rates to be a little softer than the fronts to help control oversteer?

Thanks,

Scott

Hey Scott,

I have the MCS 2Way NR non-divorced coilovers on my ‘21 Supra. They’ve been awesome and easy to learn.

I run Swift springs on mine with 12k front and 16k rear currently. That being said, I have a pretty complete aero setup too. I’m actually looking at upping those rates to 14k front and 18k rear soon as the aero has evolved to produce even more downforce.
Hope this helps.

 

[noogie]

What class are you running? I’m not sure what your Autox experience is but these cars are pretty fast in B street already, which is just tires, front camber, and front bar.

Just IMO, Autox is 90% driver and 10% hardware. Focus on the driving and you’ll figure out what you need to tweak to get the car handle the way you want it.

 

[RWDriver89]

What class are you running? I’m not sure what your Autox experience is but these cars are pretty fast in B street already, which is just tires, front camber, and front bar.

Just IMO, Autox is 90% driver and 10% hardware. Focus on the driving and you’ll figure out what you need to tweak to get the car handle the way you want it.

I’m in XA. I’ve done AutoX for about 15 years now.

I ran it in BS for the first year while it was stock to get seat time and learn the car; unfortunately I have the “can’t keep a car stock” addiction which quickly booted me from street classes. It’s been a blast in XA though.

 

[downshift00]

I am the same way. I am not able to leave a car stock. I know the car is fine in BS, but I am not paying money for good shocks to leave it on stock springs and no camber adjustment just to have a good PAX. Im planning for SST class, so no aero allowed for me. BTW, BS doesnt allow more camber. I also am not new to autox, 13yrs here, with various cars over the years. I was just concerned about a too rear happy car to start the season. I would much rather a slightly pushy car then oversteerish to start.

 

[RWDriver89]

I am the same way. I am not able to leave a car stock. I know the car is fine in BS, but I am not paying money for good shocks to leave it on stock springs and no camber adjustment just to have a good PAX. Im planning for SST class, so no aero allowed for me. BTW, BS doesnt allow more camber. I also am not new to autox, 13yrs here, with various cars over the years. I was just concerned about a too rear happy car to start the season. I would much rather a slightly pushy car then oversteerish to start.

It takes some tweaking to get the rear end setup where you want it once you get out of street classes; especially once you start adding power. PAX drives me nuts… don’t get me started.

definitely don’t overdo it on the rear sway bar for sure then. Keep them at even settings or even offset with the rear being as soft as possible to keep good contact patch in the back and prevent sliding. I’m on -2.5 camber in the rear and have a fully independent suspension setup in the rear; NO sway bar or endlinks at all.

The car loves it with taking some seat time to learn where the rear Coilovers were fastest.

 

[downshift00]

It takes some tweaking to get the rear end setup where you want it once you get out of street classes; especially once you start adding power. PAX drives me nuts… don’t get me started.

definitely don’t overdo it on the rear sway bar for sure then. Keep them at even settings or even offset with the rear being as soft as possible to keep good contact patch in the back and prevent sliding. I’m on -2.5 camber in the rear and have a fully independent suspension setup in the rear; NO sway bar or endlinks at all.

The car loves it with taking some seat time to learn where the rear Coilovers were fastest.

Ya, I'm leaving the stock rear sway bar and will just be running a front adjustable sway, probably on full stiff at first.

 

[RWDriver89]

Ya, I'm leaving the stock rear sway bar and will just be running a front adjustable sway, probably on full stiff at first.

That’s exactly how I started. Just adding a stiff front bar made a noticeable difference in handling and steering feel. I think some of that has to do with such an impact on controlling the weight of the engines movement into body roll as the stock engine mounts are too soft/garbage IMHO.

Next steps I recommend is correcting the front suspension geometry with FLCAs w/roll center correction, outer tie rods w/roll center correction and front endlinks to prevent preload on the swaybar. Those items alone takes a stock car and transforms the handling in the front. (Again, imho)… ??

 

[downshift00]

That’s exactly how I started. Just adding a stiff front bar made a noticeable difference in handling and steering feel. I think some of that has to do with such an impact on controlling the weight of the engines movement into body roll as the stock engine mounts are too soft/garbage IMHO.

Next steps I recommend is correcting the front suspension geometry with FLCAs w/roll center correction, outer tie rods w/roll center correction and front endlinks to prevent preload on the swaybar. Those items alone takes a stock car and transforms the handling in the front. (Again, imho)… ??

Ya once these 2 way MCS are installed with the sway bar, I will see how things handle and go from there.

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