Removing A-Frame to wire a dash cam

[FlynnZero]

Anyone got any instructions on removal of the A-Frame interior to run wire for a dash cam to the fuse box? I don't want to F it up.

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[BA9092]

Anyone got any instructions on removal of the A-Frame interior to run wire for a dash cam to the fuse box? I don't want to F it up.

Disconnect the battery first, then pry the little clip off that says "airbag" - there's a T25 bolt under there.

 

[Loco38SUP]

The only panel you need fo remove is the lower kick panel below the glove box. That’s where the fuse box is located.

The camera wire can be guided/inserted along the front windshield edge then under the rubber a-pillar seal. I didn’t remove any trim pieces above the dash.

-RJM

 

[FlynnZero]

The only panel you need fo remove is the lower kick panel below the glove box. That’s where the fuse box is located.

The camera wire can be guided/inserted along the front windshield edge then under the rubber a-pillar seal. I didn’t remove any trim pieces above the dash.

-RJM

I will give it a try tonight.

 

[FlynnZero]

I will give it a try tonight.

Is that kick panel a pain to remove?

 

[BA9092]

If you route the wire up the A-pillar, make sure you tuck it under the windshield side and up across the headliner, following the contour of the windshield and not the rubber molding on the passenger side window. The wiring shouldn't interfere or obstruct the airbag.

I only remove the A-pillar trim since I was wiring for both the front and rear dash cams and didn't want to cross OVER the A-pillar airbag.

 

[BA9092]

Is that kick panel a pain to remove?

There are two tabs that twist counterclockwise (you'll see them) and then the panel just comes down.

 

[Loco38SUP]

I will give it a try tonight.

Here are some reference points of how I ran my wire down to the F47 fuse.

-RJM

 

[FlynnZero]

Here are some reference points of how I ran my wire down to the F47 fuse.

-RJM

Sweet! Appreciated.

 

[consultadrone]

Here are some reference points of how I ran my wire down to the F47 fuse.

-RJM

I did mine the exact same way for my radar detector. The wire for my Valentine is flat so it was super easy.

 

[FlynnZero]

I did mine the exact same way for my radar detector. The wire for my Valentine is flat so it was super easy.

You are right. Was easy. Quick question. The cable for my Garmin dash cam has an ACC, Battery, and ground. I am assuming I just hook up the battery cable to F47? I know power to that circuit cuts after 6 min.

 

[consultadrone]

You are right. Was easy. Quick question. The cable for my Garmin dash cam has an ACC, Battery, and ground. I am assuming I just hook up the battery cable to F47? I know power to that circuit cuts after 6 min.

So this is where dash cams for BMWs can get a little tricky. There are supposed to be 3 connections for it, ACC to a switched power source, BAT to a constant power source and GND to a ground. These cars are very sensitive to current draw directly from the battery so I, like many others have used an accessory battery (which only requires an ACC and a GND) in line with the dash cam to eliminate the requirement to hook up to the car battery (or a constant power source). Some folks have installed cameras that draw power from the OBD port with great success. Given what I've read on the forums, both here and on BMW sites, I would hesitate to connect directly to constant power. I might be inclined to do a little research.

Now, that said, I am not sure if Garmin offers an accessory battery pack to avoid this, or an OBD option. I also don't know if connecting both the ACC and BAT connections to the switched circuit (F47 in this case) will allow the camera to function properly or will draw too much power.


Just my $0.02

 

[FlynnZero]

So this is where dash cams for BMWs can get a little tricky. There are supposed to be 3 connections for it, ACC to a switched power source, BAT to a constant power source and GND to a ground. These cars are very sensitive to current draw directly from the battery so I, like many others have used an accessory battery (which only requires an ACC and a GND) in line with the dash cam to eliminate the requirement to hook up to the car battery (or a constant power source). Some folks have installed cameras that draw power from the OBD port with great success. Given what I've read on the forums, both here and on BMW sites, I would hesitate to connect directly to constant power. I might be inclined to do a little research.

Now, that said, I am not sure if Garmin offers an accessory battery pack to avoid this, or an OBD option. I also don't know if connecting both the ACC and BAT connections to the switched circuit (F47 in this case) will allow the camera to function properly or will draw too much power.


Just my $0.02

Good advise. A battery it is.

 

[Loco38SUP]

You are right. Was easy. Quick question. The cable for my Garmin dash cam has an ACC, Battery, and ground. I am assuming I just hook up the battery cable to F47? I know power to that circuit cuts after 6 min.

I used this voltage cut off circuit for extra safety. My dash cam has a Type C USB connector, install was easy with only 2 wires. To date no problems with battery drain.

-RJM

Vantrue 11.5ft Type C USB 12V 24V to 5V Dash Cam ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083XB8T7...abc_580629C3RK5QPFWA3AJZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Mkvzed]

Here are some reference points of how I ran my wire down to the F47 fuse.

-RJM

Should that fuse tap not be flipped the other way? Correct me if I am wrong but the power prong for f47 is the top one, which means the power side of the fuse tap (side away from wire) should be the one in that orientation? Can someone confirm this? Maybe im thinking backwards, just curious on this..

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