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OEM brake bias

Sikh_Supra

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I was wondering does anyone know the OEM brake bias the supra 3.0 has? Was getting a BBK from R1 concepts and would like to know how it would be affected if I went to a 8 piston front 6 piston rear kit.
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LoveSupra

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I was wondering the same. I am considering getting a Brembo ceramic brake kit for my Supra with the same piston setup. But I would ideally want to keep the same OEM brake bias if possible.
 
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Sikh_Supra

Sikh_Supra

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Would the OEM master brake cylinder, work for all those pistons also?
 

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Would the OEM master brake cylinder, work for all those pistons also?
I have the R1 6 piston front and 4 piston rear and it works perfectly fine. Didnt have to change or upgrade anything else. The things stops so hard when I was braking in the brake pads and rotors with multiple hard stops it felt like my brain was going to burst out of my skull everytime I slammed my foot down ? hope that info helps.
 

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It will be hard to determine brake bias even for same stock car because it is also depends on how much wear on brakes (F vs R), tires (F vs R), fluid condition, & ETC. And as far as I know, there's no means of measurement because this is a relative aspect of front and rear of each car. Hence brake bias comes down to driver's preference whether a driver wants more braking power on front or less than rear rather than a series of number it represent.

as for # of cylinders, brake system is typically 2 circuit system known as front and rear circuit. this works because each circuit would have same pressure throughout its own circuit meaning left front and right front should have same pressure given there aren't any air in the system. and this should give equal wear on brake rotors & pads (same material/construction through out) in theory. that's why it is advisable to keep same set of rotor and pad (inside & outside) together if you have to take it off. you also don't want mismatched wear of rotor between left and right. my advise is change both rotor to new. since each front and rear are single circuit, it doesn't matter how many cylinders are on brake caliper as long as same spec on each (left & right) side.
 
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Sikh_Supra

Sikh_Supra

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I have the R1 6 piston front and 4 piston rear and it works perfectly fine. Didnt have to change or upgrade anything else. The things stops so hard when I was braking in the brake pads and rotors with multiple hard stops it felt like my brain was going to burst out of my skull everytime I slammed my foot down ? hope that info helps.
Did you upgrade the brake fluid as well? That’s good to know ?
What size rotors did you go with?
 
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Sikh_Supra

Sikh_Supra

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It will be hard to determine brake bias even for same stock car because it is also depends on how much wear on brakes (F vs R), tires (F vs R), fluid condition, & ETC. And as far as I know, there's no means of measurement because this is a relative aspect of front and rear of each car. Hence brake bias comes down to driver's preference whether a driver wants more braking power on front or less than rear rather than a series of number it represent.

as for # of cylinders, brake system is typically 2 circuit system known as front and rear circuit. this works because each circuit would have same pressure throughout its own circuit meaning left front and right front should have same pressure given there aren't any air in the system. and this should give equal wear on brake rotors & pads (same material/construction through out) in theory. that's why it is advisable to keep same set of rotor and pad (inside & outside) together if you have to take it off. you also don't want mismatched wear of rotor between left and right. my advise is change both rotor to new. since each front and rear are single circuit, it doesn't matter how many cylinders are on brake caliper as long as same spec on each (left & right) side.
I understand, I just know if changing the piston size, and rotor size the brake bias does change, I’m just not sure how much it would be affected if going from the factory 4 piston caliper with the OEM rotor to a 8 piston with a 380mm rotor. I will be doing a whole brake system replacement. New calipers and rotors with new brake lines as well.
 

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I have the R1 6 piston front and 4 piston rear and it works perfectly fine. Didnt have to change or upgrade anything else. The things stops so hard when I was braking in the brake pads and rotors with multiple hard stops it felt like my brain was going to burst out of my skull everytime I slammed my foot down ? hope that info helps.
have you tracked it? did you install the same pads front and rear?
 

Jakester

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Did you upgrade the brake fluid as well? That’s good to know ?
What size rotors did you go with?
No I don't believe I had the brake fluid upgraded by the guys that installed them. Does this make a big difference in performance? I am sorry but I will have to look at my paperwork later as I cannot remember the rotor size off the top of my head.
 

nibble

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on street driving, brake fluid won't matter much as long as it's same grade, not too old, and no air or water in the system.

On track driving, you definitely need to have better (i.e. higher boiling point) fluid with same batch of fluid from fresh bottle in the system.
 

Rocksandblues

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def should be running 650/660 fluid with upgraded brakes.
100% should if tracked.

I almost exclusively track and with only upgraded fluid and CSG pads it tries to throw you through the windshield.

With bigger pistons on the track your tires will be the limiting stop factor. Hope you have some beefy sticky rubber- up front.

if street only I do not see the point of upgraded brakes.
 

Jakester

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on street driving, brake fluid won't matter much as long as it's same grade, not too old, and no air or water in the system.

On track driving, you definitely need to have better (i.e. higher boiling point) fluid with same batch of fluid from fresh bottle in the system.
Good to know ?
 

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whats the size of the 3.0 brake rotors?
 
 








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