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Interchiller

underdonk

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I've been doing this a long time, and maybe I just don't run in the right circles, but I've never heard of a product like this before. My initial thought is that any gains from this would be offset by having to run the AC, which is going to take power off the top due to the motor having to run the compressor. Maybe someone knows something I don't, though. It's an interesting concept.
 
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TYMBOM

TYMBOM

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Because it’s a gimmick.
I enjoy being direct and no BS the same as you, but please elaborate. Here is a quote. To be clear, they do not have anything to do with selling, etc. When he says “mom”, it stands for Miles of Mayhem” which is a week long drag and drive event.

It was 37C (99 F) out on mom and on the highway my intake air going into the car was 135 F and under the blower was 64 F

Temp of fluid would have been around 4-5 C

Gotta love these systems”
 

suicidaleggroll

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My initial thought is that any gains from this would be offset by having to run the AC, which is going to take power off the top due to the motor having to run the compressor.
Most (all?) modern cars shut off the A/C compressor at WOT, I assume the Supra does too. I suspect this wouldn’t accomplish much on a track since you’re at WOT so much that without the compressor running, your intake will just heat up like normal. On the street or strip I could see it being a good compromise though.
 

underdonk

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Most (all?) modern cars shut off the A/C compressor at WOT, I assume the Supra does too. I suspect this wouldn’t accomplish much on a track since you’re at WOT so much that without the compressor running, your intake will just heat up like normal. On the street or strip I could see it being a good compromise though.
I had no idea about the AC being turned off at WOT on modern cars. Most of my track cars have been from the 90s in the past and it doesn't make a damn bit of difference on my '21 Tacoma. It would just make it go from slow to slow. ? Would be interested to test it out on the Supra. I think I've only actually ever used the AC in the car maybe twice, as I'm a ride or die kind of guy with the windows down even in the 105deg heat. And I don't daily my car so it really ever only sees fair weather. I still think I would rather just get fresh air into the intake from the outside than deal with this kind of setup. Just personal opinion. I feel like if this worked, I would have seen a car... ANY car... run it before. Or seen a post about it. Or had a shop mention it. Or read about it in a magazine. Or on a website. Etc.
 

zrk

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I enjoy being direct and no BS the same as you, but please elaborate. Here is a quote. To be clear, they do not have anything to do with selling, etc. When he says “mom”, it stands for Miles of Mayhem” which is a week long drag and drive event.

It was 37C (99 F) out on mom and on the highway my intake air going into the car was 135 F and under the blower was 64 F

Temp of fluid would have been around 4-5 C

Gotta love these systems”
Well, for one, most 'race cars' that are going to need these types of temps delete the A/C. (Yes, even Drag and Drive cars). EOSpeed even has an A/C delete kit for our B58s. It's maybe not fully a "gimmick" because it will work, but why bother with all that. You can easily build an ice box for < $1k.
 

Thraxbert

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Because it’s a gimmick.
I can't say I agree with you on this one, homie. My buddy has an 800WHP G8 with an interchiller for the Texas Mile. His trap speeds are approaching 200mph. He replaced an absolutely massive trunk icebox solution with an interchiller and he no longer goes above ambient on IATs. During the run it's usually well below. The car gets back to 0C within a minute or two.
 

zrk

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I can't say I agree with you on this one, homie. My buddy has an 800WHP G8 with an interchiller for the Texas Mile. His trap speeds are approaching 200mph. He replaced an absolutely massive trunk icebox solution with an interchiller and he no longer goes above ambient on IATs. During the run it's usually well below. The car gets back to 0C within a minute or two.
Yeah- I didn't mean it didn't work (clarified that in more recent post). It's just a really expensive solution that isn't really necessary, adds a ton of overhead, and maintenance to an already expensive system.
 
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TYMBOM

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Expensive is relative to everyone’s perception I guess. I daily drive mine (during summer and good weather) as well as road course and will be most likely doing their “Stage 2” kit. Agree that it may not be for all, but every little bit helps. An EOS and one of these can only help, just lighten your bank account obviously.
 

FLtrackdays

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Expensive is relative to everyone’s perception I guess. I daily drive mine (during summer and good weather) as well as road course and will be most likely doing their “Stage 2” kit. Agree that it may not be for all, but every little bit helps. An EOS and one of these can only help, just lighten your bank account obviously.
Assuming this is for drag or greatly increasing HP? Amazed & impressed how much you guys are able to do with this engine! Seems like most people tracking aren't having major heat issues but they keep the engine mods to downpipe w/ JB4 only or stock. So just curious your use @TYMBOM. Fun learning from y'all ;)
 
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TYMBOM

TYMBOM

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Assuming this is for drag or greatly increasing HP? Amazed & impressed how much you guys are able to do with this engine! Seems like most people tracking aren't having major heat issues but they keep the engine mods to downpipe w/ JB4 only or stock. So just curious your use @TYMBOM. Fun learning from y'all ;)
Essentially it will just “maintain” horsepower by ensuring the car doesn’t pull timing as it heatsoaks.
 

FLtrackdays

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Essentially it will just “maintain” horsepower by ensuring the car doesn’t pull timing as it heatsoaks.
Let us know how you like it & if you see a difference in track times over the day! @zrk @Thraxbert have been an incredible source on other "heat issue" threads here on the forum. Is this cheaper (or better) than an EOS manifold with heat exchanger?
 
 








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