ntvaribl
Well-Known Member
It wasn’t today, but this week, car came back from shop after some installs and tune. Pure900, do88 manifold, 1050 injectors, BMR catch can, BMS intake, motiv reflex+, flex tune. My shop/tuner took these photos
The manifold has zero to do with coolant temps. That is a completely different cooling circuit.Couple of things to note:
Coolant temperatures are very stable on heavy load in general and compared to stock. I have the Wagner Tuning Manifold. This was a really good purchase.
They do, but do you need one? Ideally, oil is above 212F/100C to boil off the condensation in the system. Ideally ideally, you maintain a temperature around 230F. These values are higher than many people expect. On my last car, it was a real struggle to get oil above 190 and all these goofballs were running around installing giant oil coolers anyways. That oil needed to be HOTTER, not colder. They should've used a tstat to control flow into the cooler, and they probably didn't need one at all.Yes. But do they actually work or are they just pure marketing?
What single exit is that?Had a Helmholtz resonator fabricated to combat drone from ~1900 to ~2300 RPM - seems to do the trick too.
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Custom built.What single exit is that?
I need to find someone to do a custom job for mine, did that resonator change exhaust note at all?Custom built.
Not that I can tell - other than I can actually hear the exhaust around 2k rpm now...I need to find someone to do a custom job for mine, did that resonator change exhaust note at all?
Yup. There's a huge misconception that oil needs to be as cold as possible. Just like brake pads, there is a temperature operating range that they should be at.They do, but do you need one? Ideally, oil is above 212F/100C to boil off the condensation in the system. Ideally ideally, you maintain a temperature around 230F. These values are higher than many people expect. On my last car, it was a real struggle to get oil above 190 and all these goofballs were running around installing giant oil coolers anyways. That oil needed to be HOTTER, not colder. They should've used a tstat to control flow into the cooler, and they probably didn't need one at all.
So, if your oil is cookin' at 260F+, yeah, an oil cooler will help and is a good idea. But if you're streeting the car and seeing temps like 230, that's great. Keep it and do nothing.
Undestood. But I live in Miami and on Jan 23 the oil temps peaked and stayed at 260F. In January.Yup. There's a huge misconception that oil needs to be as cold as possible. Just like brake pads, there is a temperature operating range that they should be at.
My winter beater/track rat is an N54 335i and last summer I did a plethora of cooling upgrades so that it would survive track sessions without going into limp mode. The N54 runs even hotter than B58, so managing temps was a struggle. I finally did enough to keep temps in check, but this winter in the Mid-Atlantic has been brutal with temps not exceeding 40F in past few months.
Until I can swap the thermostat to a 212F unit, I'm having to resort to cardboard in front of cooling stacks to reduce airflow so that I could get my temps into a more desirable range. Even drove without turning on the heat in single digit temps just to keep the heat isolated to the engine![]()
While the Supra's cooling system is much better than my N54, yes, I think it could benefit from an oil cooler. Just adding that there is a such thing as running stuff too cool.Undestood. But I live in Miami and on Jan 23 the oil temps peaked and stayed at 260F. In January.