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New turbo, factory tune = drive gently and try to stay out of boost completely. Still drivable. New turbo, base map = do what your tuner tells you, probably WOT a few times to get data New turbo, final tune = send it whenever

I just removed a set of steel ones for titanium ones, and the steel ones were in there good with 25ftlbs and loctite blue. Had to gun them out.

1) Fill plug on passenger side of the trans. 8mm allen key required. 2) Drain plug on bottom. 8mm allen key required. 3) You will need a fluid transfer pump, so get one before you start. 4) With the transmission totally cold, fill the transmission pan with trans fluid until it dribbles out...

Armytrix: When you absolutely want to spend 10X for the same steel tube as everybody else

Prismatic Powders illusion purple. Please pardon the dust and finger prints. ?

Full SPL all around + rear sway. So glad I finally got this done. The ride feels awesome and it's a big improvement in direct road feel at the steering wheel. Edit: also got my Remnant GAMMA manifold back from powder coating.

As long as the flex fuel kit integrates over CAN bus, it will work.

What are you hoping to learn? A base map is going to be quite conservative, so not likely to highlight any real problems. At most, it'll show some figures that are sub-optimal until the tune is dialed in.

1-2-1 is absolutely for ground clearance.

Do you have Sport+ coded on?

GL-4 and GL-5 fluid are not interoperable. These are for different kinds of gears. All transmission oil is a gear oil, but not all gear oil is a transmission fluid. GL-4 oil has a relatively mild amount of extreme pressure (EP) additives that protect the gear metallurgy and geometry under the...

Banks gauges take over the whole screen and say SHIFT then return back to whatever UI you had before. Plugs into OBD. You set the RPM, of course. You can also configure the color of the warning.

I'm going to assume that it's like every other manual transmission: Loosen drain plug on bottom to empty trans. Put plug back in. Open fill plug on side of transmission. Insert fluid until a thin stream spills out the fill plug opening. Put plug back in. Both plugs get 25 ft-lbs of...

It wouldn't need to be that much. I have 305/30 19x11+35 in the rear, and his proposed rear setup is only 9mm more poke. That would certainly be enough to rub the fender, but 1deg of camber would probably fix it. There wouldn't much leeway to lower it, though.

My guess is that fronts will rub the wheel arch on big bumps and under full steering lockout. Rears will definitely rub the wheel arch without more negative camber or no lowering.

This isn't trans fluid. Trans fluid is bright red. This looks like body cavity oil for corrosion protection, which is found in abundance throughout the Supra. I once took a subframe bolt out and a few ounces of yellow-ish cavity oil poured out of the bolt hole.

Yes, it must be corrected before PPF. Most installers won't even do the PPF without correction. And even a factory fresh car is gonna need it.

Stage 1. NVH isn't bad. Upgraded mounts for the transmission are way more questionable for the NVH averse.

I ended up selling them and installing full mounts from Black Forest Industries.

UYCR is right. A good custom exhaust actually doesn't cost that much more than a good off-the-shelf exhaust system. Oftentimes, the prices are totally comparable. I slept on this option for a long time thinking it'd be too expensive, but both my turbo cars now have large diameter single exits...