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are both sides of the car in the air, or only one corner?

First test fit in cheapo filament. We only need to fix the contour of one edge. Everything else fit first try. We're now going to switch to CF-impreg nylon for the final print. Waiting on a new LVDS cable, too.

My project is making good progress, too. :) Have the test print in cheap filament, gonna try fitting it up tomorrow.

👆 Each pointy corner of the bumper has a fender screw that can move the pointy corner inwards or outwards of vehicle centerline. If the pointy corners need to move towards the rear of the car, I believe (if my memory is correct) all bumper screws need to be loosened to push the bumper further...

One wonders if this would even be an issue without auto start/stop.

I have the 14" and a 12.3". I will probably end up using the 12.3" unit for packaging reasons, and because modifying the OEM mounting CAD will be easier (display rear has tabs like yours). The 12.3 also has a metal enclosure for additional rigidity on the dash.

Can you link the cable to me? Gonna pick one up. I've located a 3D scanner and a printer to dive into my project with both feet.

Yes, the color coding of the LVDS does matter. :) We can't use the teal cables. Has to be the maroon with the two extra hot/ground wires. After thinking about this more, I might make an adapter plate/interposer that screws to the display body. Then using tiny M4 rivnuts, adapt the Supra's...

Xtrons 14.9" for F3x does NOT work. No bolt holes align with the Supra display backplate/mount, and the ports on the unit do not point in the correct direction to allow for mounting. We must make sure that the LVDS port points towards the windshield. Onwards to other solutions. The search...

They do, but do you need one? Ideally, oil is above 212F/100C to boil off the condensation in the system. Ideally ideally, you maintain a temperature around 230F. These values are higher than many people expect. On my last car, it was a real struggle to get oil above 190 and all these goofballs...

Every factory passenger car and engine has mounts that move under revs. Your engine mounts are fine. Since the whistling moves with RPM, start looking at the intake system. Also buy a mechanic's stethoscope and start poking around. This is likely internet-undiagnosable from the information...

Was the battery registered and (if different from OEM specs) coded to the car? Do you use XHP? //edit: Does their PnP kit still require you to hijack connectors in the footwell with a bit of de-pinning? If this has somehow jiggled loose, come undone, or in any way proves fallible, it could...

Show me your battery charge level with Protools or Bimmerlink. How is your ethanol configured? Who made the kit, how it's wired, and how it's integrated. When is the last time you unhooked your battery and waited 10 minutes?

OP, there's nothing special about this build. It's a rear lip, a single exit exhaust, paint matched reflector covers, eBay carbon mirror covers, lowering springs, and some stick-on accent pieces you can find on Amazon/aliX/eBay. Roof is wrapped satin black.

> 45 PSI > Street > Bad traction 👁️ 👄 👁️

"CEL proof" downpipes aren't foolproof. Return it for another or accept the CEL.

You do not upgrade fueling and run an OTS tune. Do not.

Make sure that the EKP is grounded correctly on the chassis. It's under the rear deck lid. Two black boxes going to a silver tab with two brown wires. At 17,564 miles, the nut on that post backed itself off on my car. EKP was no longer grounding reliably, and I had many of the issues you are...

This man doesn't want me to have dirty holes, and I'm here for it tbh. Good lookin' out. Wish I had a 3D printer!

5/16 quick connect fitting to barb QD into low pressure rail, hose to barb, hose to gas can Install and buy protool Put car in diag mode Trigger pump with protool until empty tank