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That's correct. Car is totally happy.

I have this can installed according to their instructions, pushing 42 peak PSI, and it works fine. CCV, PCV, and oil cap are VTA.

What exactly are you trying to accomplish, here? This feels very much like an XY Problem.

The dealership is full of shit and should keep their spyware to themselves.

This looks to be a gigantic crack in the manifold. Is the picture deceptive? But yes, you have several leaks between the block and the turbo. The shop should revisit the work if it is under warranty. You may need a new gasket, but those are inexpensive.

Three thoughts: 1) Was a new gasket used for the manifold? 2) Was a tightening pattern followed when bolting down the manifold? 3) It looks like your manifold has cracked due to thermal cycling stress. Hard to say if it's a metallurgy problem, a material thinness problem, or a weld failure...

That black plastic hose that runs across the manifold, and connects to a fitting on the front driver side of the manifold... Follow that hose and make sure all the plugs, hoses, and fittings are secure. The hose goes under the car by the driver wheel well (down rear of engine), and over the...

Why do you need a dyno? It'll be more accurate loaded on the road, and then you can can have any tuner in the world.

Yup https://a.aliexpress.com/_mM2QrLf

Or were the default XHP shift maps adjusted?

I could've just asked AI myself.

I have the big boy M18 1/2” impact from Milwaukee and it could not crack the RR axle bolt. I had to bring out my 36" ¾-drive breaker before it would move. Quite surprised me, since I'm the first person to touch it after the factory. Just a warning to others. Hopefully yours is easier.

Thank you, that's very generous. I'll take you up on that if the project reaches that stage. Very much hoping to send you a message! Hopefully getting my car back in ~10d and can start bolting things together.

Can't imagine you'll have bad luck with the Pure. It's good hardware, according to everything I've ever read. Besides: it's just turbos, not dogma. I'm glad you found what you needed and are enjoying it. :)

Cool. Not here to argue with you about whatever it is you think I'm doing. Anyways. OP, I think what you're really seeing here is that the "right option" depends on your goals and where you're at with the car. Larger turbos will generally sacrifice spool time to get more power in the top end...

@razorlab I specifically said the Pure 800 was core exchange. Maybe you should slow down and read before racing to miss the mark when trying to correct me, or whatever it is you're doing. Furthermore, I also said at the time, which necessarily precludes the existence of the Pure 900. This is...

But what oil do you run in your hood vent?

I have the Omega 65 turbo. At the time, it was the first and only full-fat mid-frame turbo that installed in the OEM location and retained the OEM WG. To be clear: this is not a "hybrid" turbo that chops up the OEM design and stuffs it with a bigger comp wheel. This is a serious 6558 mid frame...

Maybe. I have another car with billet subframe bushings and Shore 60A diff bushings. The differential still howls, but it's quieter than full billet and only becomes particularly noticeable on deceleration. I do not know if the Supra chassis would respond in the same manner (e.g. different...

For whatever it's worth: I have billet subframe and differential bushings. It noticeably improved the car's tendency to step out to the right. However, if you've never experienced the howling of ring and pinion gears: you will become intimately familiar, very quickly. Pretty much any RPM...