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Explain: "Fuel pump went bad, mostly due to wiring" (unsubstantiated/confusing) "Full rewire and test" (extremely unlikely without paying a fortune at a very special shop -- no mere "mechanic") Why: What's been done thus far is vague and, frankly, very improbable. So we all need more details...

I really like it, but I have a hard time believing the Corvette won't simply be the better option for whatever too-much-dollars Toyota will inevitably charge for this.

cringe

Nothing wrong with rear-mounted turbos. It's an amazing solution for packaging constraints, and can reach boost in about a quarter second. You say rear-mounted like it's bad or wrong, but it's actually pretty great.

I believe in you, OP.

Am I correct to understand, from your post, that this issue was self-resolving? As in: empty tank showing 3 bars ➡️ add a little gas ➡️ level jumps to proper reading on dash?

I believe I just had this happen to me. Parked the car at the airport last week with 2 bars of fuel. Started it up after coming home, still 2 bars of fuel. Car died just short of the toll booths to exit airport parking, perhaps 500ft of driving? Car wouldn't start, had fuel pressure codes, car...

Post the codes. Why do people ever even bother posting here, or investigating any issue, without looking at and sharing the codes? OP is out there changing spark plugs without any idea as to whether or not the ignition system is triggering the codes. Y'all need to relax, step back, and think.

I'm also experiencing random chassis codes from front left ride height sensor, even with everything in great shape + cancellers. Very intermittent. It happens much more frequently now that the weather has started to get more temperate in Texas. Like, hasn't happened in months and is now...

My man out here asking the real questions.

Exhaust is a tube. The gas that moves through the tube acts like a fluid. The amount of fluid that can be moved in a tube is limited by the narrowest point of the tube. Therefore, if the exit of the OEM downpipe is 3.15", you will get 3.15" of flow in the tube.

Remove the airbox, intake pipe, and PCV heater from the front of the turbo. Then check for shaft play. If you have in/out movement, the turbo is junk and needs to be replaced.

+1 for Soul speed. About the best you can get in South Austin for basic to intermediate projects. Labor rates are reasonable for the city.

Good to see more Austin Supras! Hope to see some y'all out there.

Dealer ceramic is always going to be spray-on crap that lasts 90 days or less. Maybe, even, 30 days or less. All dealer add-ons are designed to make you pay the maximum possible price for their lowest possible cost, so whatever they offer will always be trash-tier quality.

Did you vacuum bleed and/or use the factory bleed procedures? If yes, the electric water pump often sounds like it's bubbling a bit. Most pumps do.

I'll repeat myself: If you run a CCV+PCV can and block the PCV ports, you WILL get smoke unless you run a line from the valve cover low side to the intake manifold. You can tee it off the oil cap, or you can use an aftermarket valve cover that provides an ORB port and run that to the IM. But...

Exactly how was the smoke test done? What orifices were plugged?

Question for people reporting smoke and CCV problems: When you installed head pins for the PCV ports, did you forget to give the valve cover a constant source of vacuum on the low side? There must be some sort of active pressure relief from the valve cover back to the intake manifold. You will...

Have run the road housing up to 32 PSI, and the drag to current 42. These are not the limits, just where I settled each time.