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I also have Ecutek and noticed the DTC tool on the app has all those extra categories now after an update. You'll have to select the ones showing DTCs in red to see the codes. Also what makes you think it's running lean?

Finally added some engine bay cosmetics- Engine and ecu cover, various verus caps. Need to clean every thing else now lol.

Yes the connection diameter on their standard dp is the same as OEM. The quality is super high. I've got a FI catless downpipe that is larger and made to fit their 3.5 inch exhaust, which does change the sound a bit.

I recently got the Eventuri intake and can definitely recommend if your looking for a carbon piece and price isn't an issue. With the car being tuned it adds some nice sounds without being obnoxiously loud in the cabin. The build and quality is amazing, you can tell it had some actual r&d which...

Guessing by cold and hot you mean within 200-230 F range? lol Since I have an upgraded intake manifold I don't think i'd run into timing being pulled in street driving, so it seems like there's not really an advantage for the oil and coolant to be kept well under 200 degrees.

So from what I can find there's not really a benefit, even on a tuned car running more boost, to keeping the oil/coolant temps lower than the stock targets. Is that the consensus here too?

Makes sense, figured it would be something controllable. I may have that changed back unless there's a benefit to those being lowered. For oil I would think it's better to have it at stock temps.

Thanks I wasn't aware of that type of setting. I should have mentioned I'm on Ecutek. I'm guessing that there may be a similar max cooling mode setting , but the tuner may have to change it.

I recently got an updated tune after getting an intake manifold and a couple of other things, and noticed the oil temp is staying around 180 degrees F (or just under) doing normal driving. Coolant is also averaging 170-178. Usually before oil would be up at 220-224 or so. I've tried listening...

I wouldn't bother with deleting the muffler. If you want your exhaust a lot louder just get a non-valved catback system. I think the factory system already has a resonator built in at the mid pipe anyway.

Wondering if anyone here knows what value to look at in Ecutek for the IAT before throttle/ charge air temp? I can't seem to find the right one to monitor on the dashboard gauges

I just did the low temp circuit bleeding procedure. I figured out the hood needs to be open to get the service function message. Just left it and let it run until it showed function completed. Just to be sure I did it 3 times, and topped off the low temp reservoir in between. Not sure if it’s...

I wouldn’t recommend all seasons on a sports car in Florida. If you’re driving the few times it’s sub 50 degrees just have to take it easy.

You can mix tires. If you get the nt555r2 on the stock wheels go with the 285/35/19 those will fit on an 10inch wheel, and it’s a huge upgrade in grip. Ive been happy with them. Ran them with the 255 PSS for a while then got nitto G2s for the front. The r2s are fine in the rain also just have...

I just recently got this exhaust system- I’ll try to get some videos and sound clips.

I also refuse to use my horn unless it's an emergency, just haven't bothered looking into swapping it.

ok good to know. It looks like some brands have their manifolds coming in a thermal looking material, and some others have the option to do a thermal black color, but it’s hard to tell if that’s something that will help with temps/heat resistance or just for looks.

I was having trouble finding much info on this so was wondering- anyone have any idea or data on whether a thermal black coating on aftermarket intake manifolds makes much difference over raw aluminum?

Just bumping this old thread since it’s same topic. Right now with premium 93 hard to find right after the hurricane, I put a small amount of 87 with E to hit e50. It was less than 2 gallons of the slow juice, but was wondering will that be any issue since I’m tuned on flex 93oct - e50?