Search results

Rubber bushings - they need to be at their normal operating height, which is basically the center of their normal travel, when tightened. So that when the suspensions moving a little bit up and down, the rubber flexes and works as intended. With them tightened in the air, the suspension is at...

These go fully inside the plastic pieces, let you lift with something more substantial. It wouldn't hurt if your jack had a bigger saddle (where it contacts the car). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K6VF5C0?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1

Holy crap, congrats! That's fast.

I thought this might be worth sharing, but not worth its own thread. Straight Pipes review: You won't learn anything new, but it's 11:40 of seeing and hearing it if you like that kind of thing.

Why did you start a new thread for the same thing you started a thread about yesterday? https://www.supramkv.com/threads/mhd-hot-start-roar.33152/

Also consider clearing codes, starting the car and having it do the thing, then read the codes again afterwards if any. If you have Bimmerlink or similar already at least. Occasionally some "shadow" codes exist that don't throw CEL's and might be helpful.

Mercedes got some nice points this weekend. I saw McLaren wrapped up Constructor's already.

@teal.supra would have to say for sure but I think this is sometimes intentional. The idea being you reverse them every so often having to do with how they wear and hook up. Also they're slicks, so I'd be curious how they are directional to start with - or how much it matters. You're not...

Uneven pad deposits for sure. Drive harder! Do a bed-in process, see if it doesn't go away. It's fun and free.

Agreed it might be warped but is unlikely, usually it's pad material on it unevenly. Creates spots with more and less friction, feels messed up but really isn't. Some high speed braking multiple times might clean it off (look up pad bedding procedures). Assuming you can get the rears hot enough...

Not sure anyone would. FYI the subject currently at hand is the entire assembly, stick, etc. from under the car.

Do you recall the cost or a guess on hours? Did they explain the process at all, did you stick around and wait for the work to be done or drop it off?

How was the installation?

Unless they clarify we'll never know. "Tender" to me implies plugged into 120V, it seems I wasn't the only one. I did mention portable might be an option that could itself be recharged occasionally and brought back to the car, in that we agree. I do think you explained it better and agree that...

He doesn't have electricity available. Reading is a lost art these days. @monkahead - I'm wondering if the garage is secure? Is it anywhere near where you will be living? I'm thinking that you could bring the battery inside, but charge it for a day and then bring it back to the car in the...

I'd try finding the wiring diagram for the car, see what wire leading to that assembly in the door should have power. Check it with a multimeter of course and a good ground. If there is power leading to the door, you probably have a switch hardware problem. If there's no power then you go...

Would these be OK at stock power levels?

I think you're right. It's been a while. Definitely in that area and freed up after the red clip is pulled.

Not 100% certain here but I believe you need to push here

Can't tell from this angle, but - after you pull the red tab out, is there also in that same spot a small black plastic thing that you squeeze, to release the connector itself? I feel like the red tab is a lock that keeps the black plastic thing from being squeezed, and it's that black part that...