Trade for oem launch edition wheels/tires, tpms with 500ish miles on them? Iocal to you as well.
Also have 2 extra brand new rears (black) to make a square 10" setup.
This is the next helmet I am getting. Dealer cost on it is dirt cheap so you should be able to find a pretty decent deal on one.
https://www.simpsonraceproducts.com/products/helmets/auto_racing_helmets/devil_ray/parts/783003C
Sell it! I said the same about my odd beetle thing but after 10 years of owning it, I sold it and have only a few regrets. I went a little too far into the racecar world to actually enjoy it since I like driving my "racecars" on the street. It did wonders on the track though.
Years ago, at an auto-x event, I got to watch a Viper go up a 45° wall that was a good 200ft off the track. No idea how that was even possible....
BMWs in the beginner group is where its at! Reminds me of the 24 hour Lemans race over the weekend when it was raining. Cars off the track every 5...
Why is it always a Viper? The last track event I did, the Viper driver was the worst one there. Although, it ended up being a Corvette that crashed, in a very odd spot at that.
At first I was questioning where you got a picture of my balls about to tea bag a Supra. Then I realized someone who identifies as a "track and data whore" actually bought Powerstop pads.....
Thats cause eibach knows nothing about handling haha. Stiffer front means more understeer. Stiffer rear means more oversteer. My personal opinion is that they should only be used for fine tuning the suspension. It's the springs that should be doing most of the work.
FWIW - I run a Whiteline front sway (which is solid, not hollow, because I like the curve chart better) on the softest setting and I really need to install my rear bar because of the understeer. I thought it would feel like stock bias since I run a square tire setup but nope, understeer.
Looks like BM3 is out of the question for reverting to stock and passing smog.
https://www.supramkv.com/threads/massachusetts-state-inspection.17468/page-3#post-284829
Back when my car fit on an actual alignment machine, I paid $120. Now I go with a mobile guy who starts at around $140 and can go up to $350 depending on exactly what you want done.
I did forget to mention the biggest thing. Even if you dont want to mess with the line psi and shifting speed stuff, I would still do it to remove the TQ limiter. That is seriously the first thing you will notice. The bottom end TQ really comes out.