I run a front swaybar with OEM rear. It greatly added front stability and reduced front end float on track. Coupled with 550lb front and 500lb rear (true coilover), the car feels great on track. Would be perfectly fine on the street. A good amount of fast track guys do this. Real world examples...
High IAT reduces power.
Time to upgrade cooling if you want to run that kinda boost on track
Also, if you don't take your engine cover off when at track, start doing so. Every little bit helps and the cover traps a ton of heat.
I'm posting more on youtube and the supra track facebook group if people care.
I generally have moved on from this forum as most posts are about car bowling, photos of a car in a garage or questions like it's the first car they have ever owned.
Holy shit, the grief and questioning received for suggesting people actually look over their car and see if the brake fluid is low is mind boggling.
Do you homeowners call the police when you have a small water leak in the basement?
I didn't say that. Most cars have low brake fluid sensors and it will trip a warning if it's low. That is why I stated that would be the simplest thing to check. All you need to do is pop the hood and remove one little plastic panel. No tools needed.
Pedal going mush or just numb? Mush is fluid, numb is pads overheated.
Try C21/C11. Actual track pads.
Which NJMP track are you referencing? Thunderbolt or lightning?
Which CP pads? You aren’t talking about the hybrid street/track pads are you? If so, get some actual track pads! You literally have a completely different experience than other track drivers, including myself. I had no problems at NJMP. I do 20-30 min sessions at Palmer and Pocono which has...
OEM rotors are fine, dzeleski is on a weird mission after going to tail of the dragon (not an actual race track) to say they aren't capable even though it's 1000% proven otherwise with multiple people tracking them and even winning their class with no issues. Upgrading brake pads and fluid is a...