I'm sure we'll be fine. Trail braking, for me anyway, hasn't been a focus regarding pads. There's very little stress on them and the release characteristics of any name-brand pad should be sufficient. Of course, I haven't tried EVERY pad, but the 5-6 I've used have all done well.
Trust me when...
I had a 350R. The car had a ton of potential. I was beaten by a full four seconds by one on streets of Willow. The spec sheet says he's on street tires. I don't know what else he had done to it, But I have also seen them run stupid fast at Buttonwillow.
I did not like driving the car, though...
If you don't care about classes, just pick something way above you, like XP. I can guarantee nobody is going to complain about your car in that class. ?
Then, if you decide it's something you're into, class your car appropriately and go for it.
You can also use carding shoes. No fire protection, but still a driving shoe and a lot cheaper.
I didn't have any problem on that course with my 60s. As mentioned above, a lot of it probably has do with preference. I've had this car on a number of different courses, always had 100% confidence...
I liked the Hankook R-S4. I used them as daily tires then drove my car to, on, and from Laguna Seca. They grip like an honest 200tw tire and last forever. Very forgiving on course, too.
If he drives with nannies on, it would be normal. OP: 5mm or so of pad is safe. You can get down to the wear line, if you aren't pushing the car very hard.
I'm on 275 CRS tires and haven't noticed things being too bad. I make adjustments during driving, but nothing scary. Not so much a rotation thing as traction.
But I will say... On low-speed, tight corners, that rear diff works wonders.
I drive the AT version so get to wear regular shoes. ...