ATS Stage1 Trans Failure

[suncty]

I was dragging a while ago and my trans failed while driving in 2nd gear.

It can only be driven in 1st gear and reverse, and when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear, the RPM goes up and down and a failure code is displayed.

After that, only 1st gear and R are driven.

The fault code is 0x420311.

I haven't been able to get much advice from the kit creator, so I'm asking the forums for help.

I run the DAW 6466 Turbo at 29-30Psi max.

However, 2nd Gear uses less boost.

I think WHP will be slightly over 700.

If the WHP is like this, will the Trans be damaged?

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[RichyDaRich]

Did you ever find out the solution? I have a stage 2 I was literally just cruising around going about 50 reved high went into limp mode then neutral turned the car off and turned it back on did a half throttle and it shifted great all the way to 8th. Got a code CDC10D

 

[suncty]

Did you ever find out the solution? I have a stage 2 I was literally just cruising around going about 50 reved high went into limp mode then neutral turned the car off and turned it back on did a half throttle and it shifted great all the way to 8th. Got a code CDC10D

Did you ever find out the solution? I have a stage 2 I was literally just cruising around going about 50 reved high went into limp mode then neutral turned the car off and turned it back on did a half throttle and it shifted great all the way to 8th. Got a code CDC10D

I worked again with HPK from PDS.
The E clutch case on my transmission collapsed and caused damage to the main shaft.

 

[superd6199]

I was dragging a while ago and my trans failed while driving in 2nd gear.

It can only be driven in 1st gear and reverse, and when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear, the RPM goes up and down and a failure code is displayed.

After that, only 1st gear and R are driven.

The fault code is 0x420311.

I haven't been able to get much advice from the kit creator, so I'm asking the forums for help.

I run the DAW 6466 Turbo at 29-30Psi max.

However, 2nd Gear uses less boost.

I think WHP will be slightly over 700.

If the WHP is like this, will the Trans be damaged?

how are you trying to reach ATS? I’ve been able to reach them bc FB with a decent response time.

 

[suncty]

how are you trying to reach ATS? I’ve been able to reach them bc FB with a decent response time.

I contacted them through Instagram DM and could not get proper help, so I purchased and installed PDS HPK.
For others, please do not make duplicate investments.
We recommend reliable and proven products.

 

[kyle9]

I contacted them through Instagram DM and could not get proper help, so I purchased and installed PDS HPK.
For others, please do not make duplicate investments.
We recommend reliable and proven products.

I beat the shit out of my ATS trans doing time attack with 800+whp for multiple laps at a time on tracks with .6-.7 mile straights with 0 issues, so I’m not sure that one failure means it’s not reliable or not proven.

I know people with Pure trans that have failed in much less difficult conditions.

Who built your trans? Was it ATS or did someone else do the build from their DIY kit?

 

[suncty]

I beat the shit out of my ATS trans doing time attack with 800+whp for multiple laps at a time on tracks with .6-.7 mile straights with 0 issues, so I’m not sure that one failure means it’s not reliable or not proven.

I know people with Pure trans that have failed in much less difficult conditions.

Who built your trans? Was it ATS or did someone else do the build from their DIY kit?

I'm talking about my experience of failure.
There were no problems while driving on the track. But it failed during dragging.

First of all, when I purchased the ATS Stage 1, I kept thinking about the need for a billet E-hub, but he sold me a kit without it, and I broke the E-hub and broke several parts.

I then contacted them to rebuild, but they did not give me a proper solution. So I contacted PDS and purchased a new product.

And the clutch in the ATS kit was good, but the steel plates had inconsistent dimensions. This means that the surface is uneven. It didn't cause it to fail, but it wasn't very good.

When I took it out and disassembled it, some of the steel plates were partially deteriorated and turned blue. I guess it was because the surface was uneven.

In contrast, the quality of the steel plates in PDS's kit was very excellent. The dimensions are very consistent.

And since it is a DIY kit, I built it at my local Trans Shop. The same shop worked on one car using two different kits. I'll try dragging with more horsepower.

 

[kyle9]

I'm talking about my experience of failure..

that’s my point. You’re saying it’s bad based on a single failure after a DIY/local shop install. I’m saying that’s a bit of a generalization and by the same logic you can say the same thing about every trans builder (or manufacturer of anything)

 

[NiceBMW]

Something isn't adding up. Did you ask for the E-hub or did you tell them that you only track the car? They offer the better Ehub for the exact reason that yours is now having issues and it is no secret. Drag racing adds a lot more stress to the hub than tracking it.

 

[suncty]

that’s my point. You’re saying it’s bad based on a single failure after a DIY/local shop install. I’m saying that’s a bit of a generalization and by the same logic you can say the same thing about every trans builder (or manufacturer of anything)

I'm sorry if I didn't write much about working with a DIY kit and if I made the mistake of generalizing.
However, PDS was outstanding in terms of DIY kit composition, quality, and customer service.
I was trying to repurchase parts after the trans failed, but ATS was unable to contact me properly.
So it took a long time to repair, and thanks to PDS, we were able to immediately supply parts and complete the repair.
Because I'm not a US resident, the only option is a DIY kit.
If I lived in the US I would have had ATS build it myself and I would have been happy with it.

I will try PDS HPK and evaluate again.
I've worked on two vehicles this time (including one I rebuilt after a failure), and if it's an issue with the trans shop, it'll probably fail again on a similar run.

I believe that ATS should basically sell kits that include a billet E Hub, and should not sell kits without a billet E Hub.
When I spoke with him, I realized that there were many similar failure cases.

Once again, there was no problem driving on the track, but it failed while dragging. This is a billet E Hub problem, not a problem with the local trans shop. And both clutches looked excellent in appearance, and the PDS steel plate had better tolerances. I was worried about this before putting the ATS in, and when I took it out after it was actually damaged, I found traces of heat in the area I was worried about. ATS's installation manual was explained in a way that I could DIY.

After looking through your post, I think it would be nice to talk to him on the phone.
I purchased the DIY kit through Instagram DM, and after failure, I was unable to purchase the parts needed for reconstruction through him and was unable to contact him properly.
Anyway, that's my point. If I lived in the US and could talk to him directly, I wouldn't have felt this dissatisfaction.

 

[racebuild]

Why does this post feel like a plug to promote Pure’s DIY kit and shit on ATS’ DIY kit.

If you don’t launch the car, the billet hubs are not necessary. Did you specify the type of use to ATS prior or purchase? I told them no launches and pure track use they recommended I do the clutches and keep the stock hubs. BTW… ATS offers a DIY kit with the billet E hub it’s the Stage 1 Kit.

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