brake pads for track use

[kaj]

Option 1 is two piece.

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[underdonk]

I know this is a pad thread, but instead of creating yet another one of these, is anyone here running slotted and/or drilled rotors for track use? I've pretty much landed on the C21/C11 pads, and figured I would just do rotors while I'm at it. Are they recommended and/or worth it on this car with its brake setup? I'm doing braided lines (Turner) and fluid (SRF) along with it.

 

[Rocksandblues]

I know this is a pad thread, but instead of creating yet another one of these, is anyone here running slotted and/or drilled rotors for track use? I've pretty much landed on the C21/C11 pads, and figured I would just do rotors while I'm at it. Are they recommended and/or worth it on this car with its brake setup? I'm doing braided lines (Turner) and fluid (SRF) along with it.

I am not and those around me in the platform. I am sure some are. The stock rotors are more than adequate even with upgraded pads.

Most people should be learning to get on gas faster and not worry about "outbraking" people. Better lap times with earlier to power than out braking by 20 feet .02

 

[underdonk]

I am not and those around me in the platform. I am sure some are. The stock rotors are more than adequate even with upgraded pads.

Most people should be learning to get on gas faster and not worry about "outbraking" people. Better lap times with earlier to power than out braking by 20 feet .02

Yeah, great point. With pads, fluid, and braided steel brake lines, the car can probably stop better than I can drive. Thanks for saving me some $$$.

 

[Phantom Menace]

I concur, stock rotors work fine with the c21 / c11 CSG pads. Can't comment on rotor life just yet but the car stops fine.

BTW thanks to all the posters here on this thread steering me to the CSG pads.

After just 2 track days and still learning the car I'm within 0.2 seconds of my previous best lap time in my C7 Corvette Z51 in a stock Supra (except for the pads and SC3 220tw tires).

Cheers!

 

[nibble]

I, too, agree with above. also, I would stay away from drilled rotors unless you plan to change it like every other track day. Also, some cheap ones may crack just after one session.

stick to stock rotor.

 

[kaj]

I know this is a pad thread, but instead of creating yet another one of these, is anyone here running slotted and/or drilled rotors for track use? I've pretty much landed on the C21/C11 pads, and figured I would just do rotors while I'm at it. Are they recommended and/or worth it on this car with its brake setup? I'm doing braided lines (Turner) and fluid (SRF) along with it.

Cross drilled rotors that are good are actually a bit of a misnomer. If they have been drilled after casting. That is bad. They will most likely crack and fail. "Cross drilled" rotors that are good are actually cast with the holes in them.
Slotted rotors obviously won't have that problem.
Both types of rotors were useful because brake pads used to off gas a lot and the gas is needed somewhere to escape to. Newer pads don't really do that. With modern pads, cross drilled and slotted rotors aren't really needed.
Now, if you go to ads for current drilled and slotted rotors, they have a list of other reasons why you should buy them. Personally, I remain skeptical. I have never once had any problems with a solid rotor.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Cross drilled rotors that are good are actually a bit of a misnomer. If they have been drilled after casting. That is bad. They will most likely crack and fail. "Cross drilled" rotors that are good are actually cast with the holes in them.
Slotted rotors obviously won't have that problem.
Both types of rotors were useful because brake pads used to off gas a lot and the gas is needed somewhere to escape to. Newer pads don't really do that. With modern pads, cross drilled and slotted rotors aren't really needed.
Now, if you go to ads for current drilled and slotted rotors, they have a list of other reasons why you should buy them. Personally, I remain skeptical. I have never once had any problems with a solid rotor.

Vented rotors, which are what we have, are awesome for track use. Slotted or drilled are nice until they crack. Which I’ve seen happen a lot! If they are changed often enough. However that rarely happens with solid or vented rotors. Hence most of us who track will use vented rotors. They are also known as “cheap” rotors because they are the least expensive of the bunch. It’s not derogatory in terms of performance, just price.

Not saying it can’t happen. But it’s so rare, the manufacturer replaced an entire set of 10 we bought. However, if you can afford really expensive drilled or slotted rotors and change them and the pads more often (or you have a sponsor), by all means go for it. There is a slight edge on paper. But you will burn through both the rotors and pads more quickly. Myself and the MX5 pro racers never noticed any fade from our “cheap” vented rotors

https://www.buybrakes.com/help/slotted-drilled-vented-rotor-differences/

 

[Rocksandblues]

I concur, stock rotors work fine with the c21 / c11 CSG pads. Can't comment on rotor life just yet but the car stops fine.

BTW thanks to all the posters here on this thread steering me to the CSG pads.

After just 2 track days and still learning the car I'm within 0.2 seconds of my previous best lap time in my C7 Corvette Z51 in a stock Supra (except for the pads and SC3 220tw tires).

Cheers!

Rotors last about 25-30 hard track days- for me

 

[kaj]

Vented rotors, which are what we have, are awesome for track use. Slotted or drilled are nice until they crack. Which I’ve seen happen a lot! If they are changed often enough. However that rarely happens with solid or vented rotors. Hence most of us who track will use vented rotors. They are also known as “cheap” rotors because they are the least expensive of the bunch. It’s not derogatory in terms of performance, just price.

Not saying it can’t happen. But it’s so rare, the manufacturer replaced an entire set of 10 we bought. However, if you can afford really expensive drilled or slotted rotors and change them and the pads more often (or you have a sponsor), by all means go for it. There is a slight edge on paper. But you will burn through both the rotors and pads more quickly. Myself and the MX5 pro racers never noticed any fade from our “cheap” vented rotors

https://www.buybrakes.com/help/slotted-drilled-vented-rotor-differences/

Solid/plain/vented whichever we prefer to use, yes. I assumed he knew there aren't solid rotors on our cars that are literally solid.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Solid/plain/vented whichever we prefer to use, yes. I assumed he knew there aren't solid rotors on our cars that are literally solid.

True. Not on our cars. But tons of vehicles use em in the rear. Which makes me wonder what our manufacturer brake bias is. Would think at minimum 60/40 split front/rear. Some people dial it back even further to 70/30. Hence those solid rear rotors.

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