Brake shudder?

[FLtrackdays]

So.…. I did a trackday (weekend), didn’t properly bed in my brakes and got some severe shudder. Or so I thought. I’ve never had a bad bed in problem in my 15+ years of tracking that I can remember. Would just bed them in at the track.… Completely forgot I need to replace not one but two bent tie rods (from a previous issue now fixed) and replace my heavily worn track tires.

What do y’all think? I have new rotors. However, I’m now thinking of just replacing the tie rods, tires with balance and alignment. If still present, then I can change the rotors. Visibly the rotors looks and feel fine. Or should I just throw on the new rotors, since I’ve got them, while at the shop anyways?

Thanks ?

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[Rocksandblues]

Can't really bed in at track. New material never gets a chance to cool and set.

Once I had similar situation and i just drove even more aggressively and I guess I kind of forced the issue

All bets are off if suspension bits are bent. .02

 

[FLtrackdays]

Thx bud! We have plenty of off track room at Sebring to bed in. I really messed up and picked up the car and drove straight to Miami (in the rain ?). I’ll probably just do it all and call it my bad. Best learning experiences are the expensive one$ ?

 

[Rocksandblues]

Thx bud! We have plenty of off track room at Sebring to bed in. I really messed up and picked up the car and drove straight to Miami (in the rain ?). I’ll probably just do it all and call it my bad. Best learning experiences are the expensive one$ ?

SH!!T.... 100% everything I have learned the hard ($$) way

I have a lonely nice road near my shop when i change pads I do the violent 70-10 (2), 80-10(2), 90-10(2), 100-10(2)

The track is my drug and I would have totally done the same thing if pressed for time and gone straight there

 

[frankenm]

I use the first few laps of the first session of the weekend to bed-in new brake pads/rotors, hard enough braking to just staying out of ABS in the braking zones

I abuse them to the point they have a nice glaze on the rotor when I get off track and then know they are ready to roll for the next session I can use that ABS to the max

Shuddering is from warped rotors, uneven pads or loose calipers

 

[tomfree]

Unless you have some VERY sensitive hands (or REALLY bad pad deposits), you won't be able to tell runout on the rotors by hand. If you're lucky, you can spin the wheel while it's up on the jack and you'll see it drag slightly in the high spot on the rotor...but the deposits have to be pretty bad for that to happen.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Yeah, sound like why mess with it and just throw the new rotors on, from y’all’s advice. The OEM rotors don’t have any blue tint, visible cracks, or ridges other than the lip on the edge from good use. If it wasn’t for this new pad shudder, I’d definitely try and get more use out of em… Love the fact both front and rear are both vented ?

I’ll do the extensive RockSandBlue bed in with the new rotors. I took a few years off after selling the S2K and really got lax on my previous bed ins with the MX5. Also got spoiled with trackside service and basic bed in like @frankenm describes.

Didn’t realize you don’t buy these suckers as set. Had to purchase right and left ?. At $150 a piece, not cheap, but not Porsche or Corvette expensive either. I swear the MX5 was between $30-50 bucks when I use to buy em lol.

 

[Todday1]

It sounds like rotors. If they are fairly new you could try to have them turned. Should be able to do this if they are solid ones. Or just with slots. I just got a back up set as my big brake kit rotors cracked. So put the stock ones back on for now. What pads are you running front and rear. Fronts can get pretty hot so I have been trying to even this out. Plus have verus brake ducts and vented fender. Which helps.

 

[Todday1]

Also I have tried many different pads and rotors and even went to a 15” big brake kit 6 piston front and 14” 4 piston rear. Basically all end up in the same temp range. 1000 to 1200 degrees on track. They come off track at about 600 to 700. So this is past the heat range of most street / performance pads. Need pads that have max heat ranges around the 1200 to 1400 range. You can heat paint rotors to tell how hot they are getting.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Also I have tried many different pads and rotors and even went to a 15” big brake kit 6 piston front and 14” 4 piston rear. Basically all end up in the same temp range. 1000 to 1200 degrees on track. They come off track at about 600 to 700. So this is past the heat range of most street / performance pads. Need pads that have max heat ranges around the 1200 to 1400 range. You can heat paint rotors to tell how hot they are getting.

Nice setup! I was really happy with the Hawk DTC 60s on my stock premium 3.0 rotors. You’re probably right in that it’s the rotors. Drove in really bad rain from Ft. Myers/Naples to Miami/Homestead on the new Paragon pads. I can’t fault the pads. A friend runs on them and absolutely loves them! So I can’t wait to try the new Paragons with my new set of rotors and proper bed in this time ?. I’m due for tires and have some bent tie rods. So it’s a bit more complex but likely overthinking it. Will sign up for the next available track day & try all the new bits out.

 

[Todday1]

Great. I run tt3 NASA time trial with car officially classed etc. have tried a lot of tires as well. I use apex 18” x10 square set up. So 275/35/18. So happy to share any questions on tires etc. the car now has 64 track day events on it !

 

[FLtrackdays]

Same setup for me, track just for fun and love my Maxxis Victra RC-1s ?. They have been the best grip for the buck that I can find out there. Get so many track days out of those suckers and feel glued!!

 

[Todday1]

Agree these are the fastest 100 treadwear. Nangkang ar1 are really close but would put the maxxis at 1 sec faster. And they last if you get camber set up. I have played around with this as well. So far -.2.8 front and-2.6 rear with 0 tow front and 1/32 total tow in in rear has been good. tire temps are pretty even. I tried up to about -3 but it seemed to work better with a little less especially in rear as they can be a little tail happy trying to get on the gas out of the corners. Rear wing helps. I made the custom end plate but this is a verus wing.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Agree these are the fastest 100 treadwear. Nangkang ar1 are really close but would put the maxxis at 1 sec faster. And they last if you get camber set up. I have played around with this as well. So far -.2.8 front and-2.6 rear with 0 tow front and 1/32 total tow in in rear has been good. tire temps are pretty even. I tried up to about -3 but it seemed to work better with a little less especially in rear as they can be a little tail happy trying to get on the gas out of the corners. Rear wing helps. I made the custom end plate but this is a verus wing.

That’s beautiful ? man. Love that wing!

I’m doing exactly the same thing and currently at -3 camber all the way around. I don’t have the wing but will thankfully learn from your previous experience ?. Glad you and all the other track nuts ? are on here making my MX5 to Supra beast ? mode even easier!

 

[Todday1]

That is funny as I actually had a beast sticker made as someone else called it the beast but I took it off when I made the new end plate so do not have a pic. Also I blew a turbo so do not recommend playing around with boost as the cars are fast enough . I have a charge pipe. Catless down pipe cold air intake and aftermarket exhaust. Nothing else no tune or boost. Run 30% ethonol mix. With just everything stock. Car Dyno at 426 max hp at rear wheels with 420 average using NASA classing sheet. Spend your money on tires , shocks , brakes , control arms and not trying to get more hp. You will be happier and your pocked book will like you too.

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