dustwhyn
Well-Known Member
Or most likely not even announce it at all, since it’s such a trivial change. Most people won’t care, but some of us do. ??
That’s why I asked.
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Burger Tuning BMS Elite BMW/Supra B58TU Charge Pipe Blow-Off Valve (BOV) Kit
- Thread starter Extreme Power House
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That’s why I asked.
Mayday
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I’m already using my vacuum adapter for boost sensor tap which is used for my boost gauge inside my car and I really would like to buy this charge pipe. Is there anyway I can install this charge pipe with BOV and using my boost tap sensor for my boost gauge at the same time? or should I give up on something?
30MilesOffshore
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Anyone have a 1yr update? You guys still running this setup? Did you have to make any other changes to it since then? Just looking for some recent feedback. Appreciate it!
RyanA90
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Other than the weird placement angle for the sensors/connectors it’s been fine with no problems or complaints.
tvlbott
New Member
After seeing this complaint from several people. I developed a system to combat this issue with extras.
I did this as I have been having overboost issues on throttle let off on pulls. BMS was really one of the only options on the market.
I would not run this system with that issue though so I have been trying to create a solution
Below I’ll post a picture of my diagram I created.
Now I’ll explain the system. The system components.
-3 way switch
-fuse tap
-inline fuse (2A)
-2in 1out Diode (12V)
-Direct acting solenoid valve (1/4” NPT)
-(4) wires 18AWG
-1/4” OD PU Tubing
-(2) push to connect 1/4” OD x 1/4” NPT
-Hobb switch 5psi (1/8” NPT)
Switch Position 1 (ON):
This will connect to the hobb switch then to solenoid valve. What this means is that when you have the switch in POS1 the solenoid will not open unless the hobb switch reads 5psi in your chargepipe. This means the bov vaccum line will not work unless you meet the 5psi requirement because the solenoid stays closed preventing intake vaccum.
This will fix the issue of boost leaks and issues at low rpm’s and partial throttle. This will also allow you to drive in comfort shifting between 1.5-2k rpm and not hear the sound every shift. This also means that you will not hear sounds when reving in neutral as you don’t build boost. Realistically 5psi doesn’t really happen until 3.5k+rpms depending on setup. So you could do a quick pull and still get your desired sound and boost release to prevent overboost. Sound would still happen on shifts when doing wot because you will have 5psi in chargepipe. Basically bov aids the b58 system.
Switch Position 2 (OFF):
BOV system will not work at all and the solenoid stays closed. This is also the common line that supplies the power to POS1 and POS3 so this will connect to a inline fuse (2A) then connects to the fuse tap on the fusebox. Currently I have picked fuse 69 (my cars gen 1 b58 f36) this fuse is 20A 12V for the cigarette lighter.
Switch Position 3 (ON):
So we covered that POS1 doesn’t allow sounds in neutral and let’s be honest. I know you guys wanna have that. So POS3 bypasses the hobb switch 5psi requirement going straight to the solenoid allowing the vaccum line to stay open. So you wanna rev some at a light and make some sounds. Flip it into pos3 rev some then put it back on pos1 so you don’t have the issue that’s come with the chargepipe.
If y’all have any questions I’ll reply to them!
I’ll be ordering the bms kit soon and build this system I stated. Even though I have the logic. I have been sourcing parts on Amazon to handle the job. Then comes to how do I set it up in a nice way in the engine bay and how do I set the switch up in my cabin.
I did this as I have been having overboost issues on throttle let off on pulls. BMS was really one of the only options on the market.
I would not run this system with that issue though so I have been trying to create a solution
Below I’ll post a picture of my diagram I created.
Now I’ll explain the system. The system components.
-3 way switch
-fuse tap
-inline fuse (2A)
-2in 1out Diode (12V)
-Direct acting solenoid valve (1/4” NPT)
-(4) wires 18AWG
-1/4” OD PU Tubing
-(2) push to connect 1/4” OD x 1/4” NPT
-Hobb switch 5psi (1/8” NPT)
Switch Position 1 (ON):
This will connect to the hobb switch then to solenoid valve. What this means is that when you have the switch in POS1 the solenoid will not open unless the hobb switch reads 5psi in your chargepipe. This means the bov vaccum line will not work unless you meet the 5psi requirement because the solenoid stays closed preventing intake vaccum.
This will fix the issue of boost leaks and issues at low rpm’s and partial throttle. This will also allow you to drive in comfort shifting between 1.5-2k rpm and not hear the sound every shift. This also means that you will not hear sounds when reving in neutral as you don’t build boost. Realistically 5psi doesn’t really happen until 3.5k+rpms depending on setup. So you could do a quick pull and still get your desired sound and boost release to prevent overboost. Sound would still happen on shifts when doing wot because you will have 5psi in chargepipe. Basically bov aids the b58 system.
Switch Position 2 (OFF):
BOV system will not work at all and the solenoid stays closed. This is also the common line that supplies the power to POS1 and POS3 so this will connect to a inline fuse (2A) then connects to the fuse tap on the fusebox. Currently I have picked fuse 69 (my cars gen 1 b58 f36) this fuse is 20A 12V for the cigarette lighter.
Switch Position 3 (ON):
So we covered that POS1 doesn’t allow sounds in neutral and let’s be honest. I know you guys wanna have that. So POS3 bypasses the hobb switch 5psi requirement going straight to the solenoid allowing the vaccum line to stay open. So you wanna rev some at a light and make some sounds. Flip it into pos3 rev some then put it back on pos1 so you don’t have the issue that’s come with the chargepipe.
If y’all have any questions I’ll reply to them!
I’ll be ordering the bms kit soon and build this system I stated. Even though I have the logic. I have been sourcing parts on Amazon to handle the job. Then comes to how do I set it up in a nice way in the engine bay and how do I set the switch up in my cabin.
ntvaribl
Well-Known Member
A one week review after installing this.
I replaced my FTP charge pipe for this BMS BOV one. I received the newer model, which is in a matte black vs the older model being in gloss black. I originally wanted the newer matte black model since there were revisions to the gloss black ones you'll read in this thread. I thought the newer matte black model would stick out less similarly to the FTP charge pipe which is also in matte black. After seeing the newer model in person, it's not smooth looking as advertised compared to the photos. It's definitely painted in one heat resistance paint where it makes it look and feel rough and blotchy. It's just a sore thumb to look at in my opinion.
Install was simple, remove your intake or half of it depending on which one you own. I have the Armaspeed Intake, so I only removed the filter and box and was able to reach below and undo the charge pipe's C-band/clip. The rest becomes plug n' play. I used both the BMS upper and lower parts despite someone using their FTP lower part.
I have an open vented Varis hood so the BOV sounds insane in person. None of the videos online does it justice. It's super loud. However...
Pros & Cons
Pros:
1. Simple install compared to the only other option on the market, HKS Electronic BOV
2. Very sharp and loud noise
Cons:
1. No more Intake noises with the original pre-installed Pink spring.
2. Farting noises due to the BOV being ever so slightly cracked open at very low boost.
When you're daily driving, you will be surprised how often this BOV will stay cracked and you'll just hear nothing but the farting noises. It drove me crazy because I have an open vented hood so the sound wasn't being muffled whatsoever. I had to constantly manipulate my throttling during casual traffic-filled drives to avoid the farting noise.
I ordered the spring set, swapped it to the orange spring, and after driving literally less than 5 minutes with it on... I am pleased. My intake noises are back and no matter how slow or fast I drive the BOV is no longer cracked open at any point.
When I read through the thread and some people here reported to try the orange spring, only to go back to the pink one. I can see the appeal. The orange spring definitely makes it quieter, but in exchange you get your intake noise back. If you're constantly highway driving, I can rarely see you having to deal with the BOV being opened to hear the farting sounds, especially without an open vented hood.
I replaced my FTP charge pipe for this BMS BOV one. I received the newer model, which is in a matte black vs the older model being in gloss black. I originally wanted the newer matte black model since there were revisions to the gloss black ones you'll read in this thread. I thought the newer matte black model would stick out less similarly to the FTP charge pipe which is also in matte black. After seeing the newer model in person, it's not smooth looking as advertised compared to the photos. It's definitely painted in one heat resistance paint where it makes it look and feel rough and blotchy. It's just a sore thumb to look at in my opinion.
Install was simple, remove your intake or half of it depending on which one you own. I have the Armaspeed Intake, so I only removed the filter and box and was able to reach below and undo the charge pipe's C-band/clip. The rest becomes plug n' play. I used both the BMS upper and lower parts despite someone using their FTP lower part.
I have an open vented Varis hood so the BOV sounds insane in person. None of the videos online does it justice. It's super loud. However...
Pros & Cons
Pros:
1. Simple install compared to the only other option on the market, HKS Electronic BOV
2. Very sharp and loud noise
Cons:
1. No more Intake noises with the original pre-installed Pink spring.
2. Farting noises due to the BOV being ever so slightly cracked open at very low boost.
When you're daily driving, you will be surprised how often this BOV will stay cracked and you'll just hear nothing but the farting noises. It drove me crazy because I have an open vented hood so the sound wasn't being muffled whatsoever. I had to constantly manipulate my throttling during casual traffic-filled drives to avoid the farting noise.
I ordered the spring set, swapped it to the orange spring, and after driving literally less than 5 minutes with it on... I am pleased. My intake noises are back and no matter how slow or fast I drive the BOV is no longer cracked open at any point.
When I read through the thread and some people here reported to try the orange spring, only to go back to the pink one. I can see the appeal. The orange spring definitely makes it quieter, but in exchange you get your intake noise back. If you're constantly highway driving, I can rarely see you having to deal with the BOV being opened to hear the farting sounds, especially without an open vented hood.
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