Clutch Slipping Issues and Warranty Denial

[mdpalmer]

Thats great thanks for sharing!

EDIT: for reference here's a quote from another owner in Puerto Rico if i understand the situation. Parts and labor about $4000.
https://www.supramkv.com/threads/clutch-slipping-on-stock-a91-mt.16639/post-261501

Manufacturers should be very interested in problems like this while a car is under warranty, even though the components are a "wear item". I would hope they opened an investigation or at least try to explain the actual failure mode. They should tell you what exactly broke which makes the clutch dysfunctional. The lack of concern for the customer is terrible for brand image and the general perception of the car too.

About the parts list, flywheel subassy $3,400 is absolutely ridiculous. Are you installing a new single mass flywheel with the new clutch? These guys are trying to rip you off with these parts prices.

Flywheel assy ($2320.63)
https://parts.longotoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-clutch-flywheel-13405waa01

Clutch cover assy ($590.63)
https://parts.longotoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-clutch-pressure-plate-and-disc-set-31210waa01

I'm not sure about the rest of the parts on that list, "turbine gasket" presumably related to the turbo. .. WTF does that have to do with clutch replacement?

https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/product/gasket-turbine-outl-17279waa02#popup-1

Misc nut, flange, clamp, did the parts person actually know what they were doing? What a joke. I would file a complaint if you haven't already.

Keep us posted how the car feels with your new setup!

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[BrettMRC]

I was thinking that too - surely the flywheel isn't a consumable?
Even if it needed facing the costs wouldn't be anything like that...

 

[BananaBoi]

I ended up ordering and installing the ClutchMasters FX400SS 8-puck and a steel flywheel with an E90 slave cylinder.

Good news: the car drives and the clutch doesn't slip

Bad news:
1) when the car sits outside in the heat, the car will not detect the clutch pedal is depressed and therefore won't start
2) likely related, this also leads to the revmatch feature not working when shifting
3) the pedal is very heavy now and not as pleasant for daily driving

I can get the car started sometimes if I continuously pump the clutch for a few minutes. There is no issue starting when it is parked in the garage or if I start it in the morning before it gets hot outside.

I took it to a different Toyota dealer to diagnose the issue and dropped it off. Three days later, they call and say they need a $300 diagnosis fee solely because I have a Banks digital gauge plugged into the OBDII port and wont diagnose until I authorize the fee. I am going tomorrow to pick it up.

Our mechanic is going to take a look at it soon and see what the issue is. I will have an update with that soon.

He took a look at it and couldn't figure it out. The issue is that the car won't start because it cannot detect if the clutch pedal is depressed.

The issue only is apparent when it is hot outside and the car has been sitting in the sun. The car will start if it is cool outside (morning/night) or parked in the garage. I can also get it to start eventually by pumping the clutch for a couple minutes and pressing the start button every few seconds until it starts.

We replaced the clutch pedal switch and bled the hydraulic system twice with no change in results.

Anyone have any ideas what the issue could be?

 

[lucky phil]

He took a look at it and couldn't figure it out. The issue is that the car won't start because it cannot detect if the clutch pedal is depressed.

The issue only is apparent when it is hot outside and the car has been sitting in the sun. The car will start if it is cool outside (morning/night) or parked in the garage. I can also get it to start eventually by pumping the clutch for a couple minutes and pressing the start button every few seconds until it starts.

We replaced the clutch pedal switch and bled the hydraulic system twice with no change in results.

Anyone have any ideas what the issue could be?

I assume by no start you mean won't crank. How did you adjust the clutch pedal switch? Is it possible that with the heavier clutch now the pedal arm or mount is flexing and the switch adjustment is affected? I haven't looked at my cars pedal arm but I wouldn't be surprised if it's plastic these days. I still don't have a 2023 shop manual that covers the manual trans cars either so I can't see the details of adjustment. Just spit balling here.

Phil

 

[MoTeC_R]

Sorry to hear about your horrible experiences. In regards to the pedal pressure I used a hydraulic release bearing on my clutch-master twin disc and it felt smooth as stock on my type r and tried a friends without the release bearing ($300 ish option) and it was much harder to press and not something I would have enjoyed for daily driving either. Maybe consider adding one to your new clutch. As far as the engagement issues I wish you luck in that quest as I have no input others haven’t suggested already.

 

[BananaBoi]

I assume by no start you mean won't crank. How did you adjust the clutch pedal switch? Is it possible that with the heavier clutch now the pedal arm or mount is flexing and the switch adjustment is affected? I haven't looked at my cars pedal arm but I wouldn't be surprised if it's plastic these days. I still don't have a 2023 shop manual that covers the manual trans cars either so I can't see the details of adjustment. Just spit balling here.

Phil

Correct, wont crank. Screen says depress clutch pedal to start. The pedal is indeed plastic. Im not sure if there is any adjustment for that switch. This is what we replaced (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vemo-bmw-clutch-switch-61319231129)

When it does start, it cranks and starts up immediately.

Sorry to hear about your horrible experiences. In regards to the pedal pressure I used a hydraulic release bearing on my clutch-master twin disc and it felt smooth as stock on my type r and tried a friends without the release bearing ($300 ish option) and it was much harder to press and not something I would have enjoyed for daily driving either. Maybe consider adding one to your new clutch. As far as the engagement issues I wish you luck in that quest as I have no input others haven’t suggested already.

I had opted to go without the hydraulic release bearing since it goes inside the bell housing. Didn't want to have to deal with any hydraulic issues and make it difficult to access. But with how you describe it, I'll likely have it installed at some point.

 

[BananaBoi]

Someone had mentioned to bypass the clutch switch but I didn't consider it a serious option as I had no idea how to do it.

Just stumbled upon this last night https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1099239

I like to think I'm competent enough to do this so I'll update when the parts get here and I install this.

 

[BananaBoi]

Update:

Before trying the bypass, I handed it off to Toyota to see what happens. I picked it up today and they ended up finding that the battery health was bad and replaced it.

Did that fix the issue? I am not sure yet. It did not start when I drove it earlier but did start on the second press of the button. We will see.

But now there is a new problem. There was a weird ticking type sound at idle with the clutch pedal released. The sound disappeared when the pedal was pressed. Not entirely sure why its happening. Might be related to the single mass flywheel I put in?

The dealer also damaged the jacking point so my adapter doesn't fit anymore.

Should have bought a Type R lmao

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