OP
OP
ChrisRay
Active Member
- First Name
- Chris
- Joined
- May 11, 2025
- Threads
- 4
- Messages
- 36
- Reaction score
- 43
- Location
- West Virginia
- Car(s)
- 24' Supra Manual, 24' Grenadier, 18' BMW X3, 65' Chevelle Turbo-LS, 12' A3 TDI
- Thread starter
- #16
QTR FMS, that's pretty awesome on setting a fuel target and it adjusting for you. I call that an "Auto tuner". That's what I meant by self tuing to clarify. It comes from my tuning with power commander with piggybacks that you have to adjust all injector pulse widths individually and timing per cylinder, then they added an auto tune oxygen sensor to adjust to your wideband settings. It made everything so much easier and faster. Holley EFI is the same. Start by locking timing at a known constant for all rpms. You set a base map, set afr targets, set boost to 0 and only tune in vacuum, no boost. Then you start playing with timing to get Max power, hottest burn via pyrometer for cleanest burn before knocking. (This takes experience to not melt down your pistons and other people trial and error is a good start point). I also like to look at excess carbon monoxide, nitrogen, and excess oxygen if I can. (I don't have that tool right now)
After a clean base map, you start adding boost and fueling targets for every couple pounds and let the auto tune correct your base map. Of course you use smoothing and have to watch out for weird spikes in either direction concerning injector pulse widths. It's a lot of trial and error for peak lean HP numbers. I also start with using Wave pulse simulation software for estimating dyno and timing correction and mass air flow if I can (b58 I can not use that software for yet). Tuning can be really involved but it is so rewarding when you nail it right. Also being able to 3D map your fueling, timing and boost is critical for different applications.
I am definitely going to consider a bigger manifold but am more focused at getting the max power before heat soak. Larger compressors always run cooler but the trade off is choke if the turbine if too small. Also, too high of differential pressure between the turbine and compressor can actually load the bearings and smoke them quick. I wish we had compressor maps and turbine maps so we can plot these turbos better. The pure 600 turbine also flows better because of different shape and less blades which will help at higher rpms for a slightly less spool. The AR is still the same though so it only moves the efficiency map up to a higher point but not massive. I estimate that this turbo will make about 50-75 degrees less heat in the HP range I want which also helps with octane of course.
I appreciate everyones feedback, especially the tuners and those that have tried things and have gotten positive or negative effects. Those help us from making the same mistakes.
After a clean base map, you start adding boost and fueling targets for every couple pounds and let the auto tune correct your base map. Of course you use smoothing and have to watch out for weird spikes in either direction concerning injector pulse widths. It's a lot of trial and error for peak lean HP numbers. I also start with using Wave pulse simulation software for estimating dyno and timing correction and mass air flow if I can (b58 I can not use that software for yet). Tuning can be really involved but it is so rewarding when you nail it right. Also being able to 3D map your fueling, timing and boost is critical for different applications.
I am definitely going to consider a bigger manifold but am more focused at getting the max power before heat soak. Larger compressors always run cooler but the trade off is choke if the turbine if too small. Also, too high of differential pressure between the turbine and compressor can actually load the bearings and smoke them quick. I wish we had compressor maps and turbine maps so we can plot these turbos better. The pure 600 turbine also flows better because of different shape and less blades which will help at higher rpms for a slightly less spool. The AR is still the same though so it only moves the efficiency map up to a higher point but not massive. I estimate that this turbo will make about 50-75 degrees less heat in the HP range I want which also helps with octane of course.
I appreciate everyones feedback, especially the tuners and those that have tried things and have gotten positive or negative effects. Those help us from making the same mistakes.
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