Race Tracking Your Supra - Information exchange

[Todday1]

I have another question for the group. Has anyone figured out how to turn off the low tire warning or changed the setting. I looked in Beamer coder but could not find anything. When you start out on track tires under 27 /28 psi the traction control comes back on normally in the middle of the 2nd lap and it is hard to reach down and hold the button down to get it back off. Once they build heat then they are past the min and it fine. Anyone else experienced this.

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[RichSC]

I have another question for the group. Has anyone figured out how to turn off the low tire warning or changed the setting. I looked in Beamer coder but could not find anything. When you start out on track tires under 27 /28 psi the traction control comes back on normally in the middle of the 2nd lap and it is hard to reach down and hold the button down to get it back off. Once they build heat then they are past the min and it fine. Anyone else experienced this.

Get rid of the TPMS sensors. Mine will throw an error for it after a couple laps but that's it. Doesn't turn the electronics back on.

 

[Todday1]

What does it do if there are no sensors on your track rims. I figured it would freek out and keep traction and stability control on? That is what it is doing if it senses a low tire pressure. So have you run rims with no sensors? Do the low tire codes come up on the dash. Just did not want to mount and have to dismount if I could not keep traction control off. You do have to have starting pressures under 27. And 26 is where I end up with most of the tires coming off at 32 hot. It pulls timing if stability Assist comes on.

 

[Rocksandblues]

I have another question for the group. Has anyone figured out how to turn off the low tire warning or changed the setting. I looked in Beamer coder but could not find anything. When you start out on track tires under 27 /28 psi the traction control comes back on normally in the middle of the 2nd lap and it is hard to reach down and hold the button down to get it back off. Once they build heat then they are past the min and it fine. Anyone else experienced this.

You can program the range that the tpms kicks in warning.
I had already pulled mine out on an 18” Sq set up and don’t care to put them back in. My dash looks like a Xmas tree already
I just click through 4 warnings on way to out lap


good
Luck with getting more people to track….
It is hard. Everyone says they are “track guys” but honestly only go once or twice a year. All good and no judgment but I am coming to realization that the hard core nut jobs are less than 1% of “car guys” out there

 

[Todday1]

Thanks for that I just got my second set of rims. So I can mount them up with out sensors and see what it does. How do you change the settings? My dash is a Christmas tree as well. With race seat , catless down pipe. And no Parking brake due to big brakes on the rear. So also am not worried about the dash lights but just if it pulls the timing. Yes I hope this helps get more people out at what ever level. They do not have to go this far but just should get out and enjoy the car and be around other car enthusiasts no matter what they drive and you are in a safe place to do it vs trying to hot rod on the streets

 

[RichSC]

What does it do if there are no sensors on your track rims. I figured it would freek out and keep traction and stability control on? That is what it is doing if it senses a low tire pressure. So have you run rims with no sensors? Do the low tire codes come up on the dash. Just did not want to mount and have to dismount if I could not keep traction control off. You do have to have starting pressures under 27. And 26 is where I end up with most of the tires coming off at 32 hot. It pulls timing if stability Assist comes on.

Nothing, just an error after a bit on the infotainment display and a TPMS light on the dash. Doesn't interfere with the car or how it drives.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Great job with this thread @Todday1 Been looking for something like this ever since I joined this forum!!!!

As far as tire pressure, I scroll down when the low tire pressure warning comes on. It’s not on the screen but you have to keep scrolling to reset tire pressure. I hit the button and nothing happens. Or so it seems. Then if you don’t track and just drive around, it will count down percentage wise until the tire pressure reset is complete. I’ve done this from 32 - 24 psi. It doesn’t seem to care as long as I select summer tires or other. May not be what you’re asking but it does take away the tire pressure warning.

You guys make me feel better about all the computer christmas tree stuff. You either have to just let it freak or keep resetting it I suppose… The good thing, even when it’s pissed off, I can continue to turn all the nannies off by holding down that magic button for more than 3 seconds and then hitting the middle button. If I don’t hit the middle button after holding it down, it doesn’t take, which is odd. If everything is not off, I definitely feel the rear brakes grab on the slightest controlled limit or slide. It sucks having to do that process again while driving on track. But I definitely do it. Agree 100% you should be in full control and not the computer. It is such a blast being on the edge and yet not driving like an ape. I think of it more like skating or dancing. Can’t get that complete control unless everything is off (but ABS). I have yet to meet one pro driver yet that drives with any of that crap on. I’ve been with about 4 IMSA pro instructors that insisted I learn to drive with them off. And drive in the rain, lol…. Not something you do until you learn how to correct a slide and can truly feel the rear with your ass and front end with the dead pedal. However, if someone is going to try this on their own, only push the car in an open area with run off. Assuming you guys have had instruction as well… learning to turn everything off?

Keep up the great posting and track sharing with this incredible platform/car hombré! Really appreciate the input

 

[Rocksandblues]

Great job with this thread @Todday1 Assuming you guys have had instruction as well… learning to turn everything off?

Keep up the great posting and track sharing with this incredible platform/car hombré! Really appreciate the input

No instruction.... I am sure i could benefit tremendously....
have no excuse- self taught- drive like an Ape

 

[Todday1]

Thanks for the comments. Yes I have a lot of topics in my mind we can discuss as a group and get more people out with these cars. I would love to have a separate run group just for us. NASA will do it if they get the numbers as they are partnered with Toyota and have to take 10 cars if they sign up for the free track day so they are committed. The rain stuff is interesting. We do not get a lot if that in Az but I just went out in TT for our first event and used my street tires Continental extreme contact. I was the fastest of all classes with Nannie’s off. So defiantly is best to eventually learn how to not rely on them.

 

[AHP]

So another track topic. Has anyone experienced excessive left rear brake pad wear. I think I know why but am interested in what others have experienced.

11 track days 2 sets of front pads (fronts have maybe a day left in them) but still on the same set of rear pads. I also run with one-click off and do not feel the TC is overly intrusive; you can still loop the car if you're being careless/over-driving. Everything on is VERY intrusive but works really well for a new driver or in the wet. Early on with stock tires I ran with everything on but didn't notice any abnormal pad wear from the TC intervening.


Stating the obvious but in my experience brake wear is entirely dependent on the track. Carolina Motorsports Park is pretty notorious for being hard on brakes and I concur. There are 4 high speed braking zones per lap -- braking into Turn 1, 8, 11 and 14 -- with no meaningful cool down. I found VIR to be much less brake-intensive and the Roval at Charlotte Motor Speedway even less.

Lastly on the topic of brakes.. Is it just me/my experience or is the brake pedal tactile 'feel' pretty terrible in these cars? The amount of pedal pressure required to achieve aggressive high speed braking is astronomical compared to other cars I've tracked.

 

[razorlab]

Lastly on the topic of brakes.. Is it just me/my experience or is the brake pedal tactile 'feel' pretty terrible in these cars? The amount of pedal pressure required to achieve aggressive high speed braking is astronomical compared to other cars I've tracked.

100% agree on brake wear being track dependent.

Yes, the brake feel sucks on this car compared to others. The Verus cylinder brace helped, as well as good fluid. I currently run Endless although I was a SRF user before that.

As far as traction control and low tire pressure. It will turn back on after a certain mph, I think it’s 15mph or so, then if you click it off again, it will stay off until you turn the car off. It’s my pre-session dance. I plan on not running the oem tpms system this season. Going aftermarket so I can log tire temp/pressure via CAN.

@Rocksandblues my Ape comment wasn’t aimed at anyone here, it’s a saying from my days as an instructor.

 

[Todday1]

Thanks for jumping in - Brakes are still the biggest issue I have been working on so can add my experience. I have not had the issue with pedal pressures - is very responsive. So not sure what pads you are running. If they are still a street pad I could see this as you will out run the heat range, and then if feels like you have no brake, so have to keep pushing harder to try and stop - I did this with street level pads, no matter what combinations of compounds you use they run in the 1000 to 1200F range on track. The car is heavy by track standards in the 3600 to 3700 pound range with driver so this is a factor. If you have not changed/ bled brake fluid that of course is the first thing to do. I end up beading off brake fluid after about 2-3 track days as you can boil fluid fairly easily even with the highest temp ones. I am also more familiar with Hawk pads and compounds - DTC 60 and DTC70 operate in that heat range and do well but they are very squeaky/ noisy for street driving and generate a lot of dust. So either have to swap them or be willing to live with it. The are a little hard to find but would be looking for HB916 and HB917. Otherwise then it could be something with the vaccum boost on the master cyl. but I expect not. Pads do make a big difference.

 

[razorlab]

Braking power is fine. Brake feel is not. That is what people complain about.

Drive an Evo, CTR or Golf R and you’ll see what we mean.

I tracked Evos for years so I am used to all the feels. The Supra is numb compared but as we all know, still super capable.

 

[Todday1]

I posted this on another thread, but if you really want to know what is going on with your brake temp based on your driving levels and track etc. look at heat painting the rotor. Here is a product that you can get. I also do not recommend drilled rotors - they will crack. I tried them in this pic. Did not last very long. Slotted only or even flat ones. Knowing our heat range helps on Pad selection.

 

[Rocksandblues]

@Rocksandblues my Ape comment wasn’t aimed at anyone here, it’s a saying from my days as an instructor.

Oh, i am an Ape-
and it is very hard to hurt my feelings I also only have like 2 friends and there must be a reason (ahole) for that as well.

drilled and slotted are for the car shows. (see)

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