Supra B58 Need Help below:

[mk5nate]

So I am having this issue where after a cold start when I sit in the car for it to warm up a bit, car will shudder/shake and it can be felt sitting in the car and the car sounds like rpm’s drop and wants to die out but goes back to normal after a second or two. I’ve replaced all my coils, sparks, cleaned fuel injectors, car has no codes or anything drives perfectly fun not loosing power absolutely nothing! Just that little thing that happens at cold starts and I am trying to see what’s going on!!! It drives me pretty crazy. Also!! It happens at warm starts after a drive if I where to slap it in park and sit there car will start acting up at idle and move around. I wanna say more noticeable at cold starts. What can be the issue ? Like I’ve said I had replaced coils, sparks, and cleaned out fuel injectors still does it! Car only has 14k miles 2020. I’m tuned and this happened even before being tuned.

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[lucky phil]

So I am having this issue where after a cold start when I sit in the car for it to warm up a bit, car will shudder/shake and it can be felt sitting in the car and the car sounds like rpm’s drop and wants to die out but goes back to normal after a second or two. I’ve replaced all my coils, sparks, cleaned fuel injectors, car has no codes or anything drives perfectly fun not loosing power absolutely nothing! Just that little thing that happens at cold starts and I am trying to see what’s going on!!! It drives me pretty crazy. Also!! It happens at warm starts after a drive if I where to slap it in park and sit there car will start acting up at idle and move around. I wanna say more noticeable at cold starts. What can be the issue ? Like I’ve said I had replaced coils, sparks, and cleaned out fuel injectors still does it! Car only has 14k miles 2020. I’m tuned and this happened even before being tuned.

Try replacing the fuel rail pressure sensor. In theory it should throw a code but theory's one thing and reality is another sometimes. They aren't horrendously expensive considering what you've already replaced/serviced.
If you can log HPFP when it's happening which sounds doable seeing it's a consistent thing when cold.

 

[mk5nate]

Try replacing the fuel rail pressure sensor. In theory it should throw a code but theory's one thing and reality is another sometimes. They aren't horrendously expensive considering what you've already replaced/serviced.
If you can log HPFP when it's happening which sounds doable seeing it's a consistent thing when cold.

Would you know the part number from Toyota by chance ? I will go ahead and try that out. It’s super weird how the car drives fine and shoots like a rocket but the idle is the party where I question what the heck lol

 

[mk5nate]

Would you know the part number from Toyota by chance ? I will go ahead and try that out. It’s super weird how the car drives fine and shoots like a rocket but the idle is the party where I question what the heck lol

part* I said party lol

 

[lucky phil]

part* I said party lol

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-213944-13538643665-genuine-bmw-part/

 

[razorlab]

Get a log of fuel pressure first before you start exchanging parts some random dude on the internet talked about.

Rail pressure should be approx. 5071 MPa during cold start with higher idle/load, then drop to approx. 1883 MPa quickly as it warms up.

Also, what modifications do you currently have?

 

[tracer bullet]

Also consider clearing codes, starting the car and having it do the thing, then read the codes again afterwards if any. If you have Bimmerlink or similar already at least. Occasionally some "shadow" codes exist that don't throw CEL's and might be helpful.

 

[lucky phil]

Get a log of fuel pressure first before you start exchanging parts some random dude on the internet talked about.

Rail pressure should be approx. 5071 MPa during cold start with higher idle/load, then drop to approx. 1883 MPa quickly as it warms up.

Also, what modifications do you currently have?

That would be me, lol.
Phil

 

[mk5nate]

Get a log of fuel pressure first before you start exchanging parts some random dude on the internet talked about.

Rail pressure should be approx. 5071 MPa during cold start with higher idle/load, then drop to approx. 1883 MPa quickly as it warms up.

Also, what modifications do you currently have?

I’ll log my fuel rail pressure tomorrow morning and send link here!

 

[mk5nate]

That would be me, lol.
Phil

I have ftp charge pipe, tomei dual, cts intake, and down pipe that’s it

 

[itzTang]

Maybe check if any of those clamps are loose.

 

[Hasan]

My car started doing this after I disabled the "cold start" cycle on MHD OTS tune.

 

[J29DB03]

I’ve had this happen before and I’m not tuned at all. Apart from exhaust and air filter I’ve got nothing different from stock and I can’t imagine either of those would have anything to do with this. Seems to just be a characteristic of the B58.

 

[mk5nate]

Get a log of fuel pressure first before you start exchanging parts some random dude on the internet talked about.

Rail pressure should be approx. 5071 MPa during cold start with higher idle/load, then drop to approx. 1883 MPa quickly as it warms up.

Also, what modifications do you currently have?

https://datazap.me/u/ndtheact/mk5nate?log=0&data=3-4-11-22-24-25&solo=22
Above is the log I took I will reply with another one when I caught the idle acting up

 

[mk5nate]

Get a log of fuel pressure first before you start exchanging parts some random dude on the internet talked about.

Rail pressure should be approx. 5071 MPa during cold start with higher idle/load, then drop to approx. 1883 MPa quickly as it warms up.

Also, what modifications do you currently have?

https://datazap.me/u/ndtheact/2?log=0&data=4-25
Don’t mind the spike I pressed the gas to bring the idle back down to its range as it sometimes kicks up a bit in the middle of 0 and 1 on tach

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