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Transmission leaking..

Webby

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First and foremost, hello all. I'm new to the forum, and sad this will be my first post!
I've had my 2020 GR since early June 20'. 3750 miles on it, with some mild autocross in the mix.

I was prepared to come show off my new custom exhaust, but a leak just derailed that project for a short bit. Once the car was on the lift and the splash guards were removed, a leaky transmission was discovered.

Unfortunate, but thats what a warranty is for. I'll reply when I have the official diagnoses from Toyota. Appears to be a bad outlet seal.

Anybody else experience or heard of this issue yet?

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zeroomega

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I discovered that mine leaks from output shaft seal as well. Did Toyota repaired your car? How long did it take?
 

Jay2004

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I discovered that mine leaks from output shaft seal as well. Did Toyota repaired your car? How long did it take?
It's common for the Supras. I had two seals breach and replaced. One was the diff and a year later the trans pan and seal needed replacing. The first time took about close to two months waiting on parts and special tools and the second seal took about a week.

When you get a chance have the dealership do a dead to toe inspection of all your seals so you don't have to deal with it down the road.
 

mxm64

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I have a 21 3.0 with 18k miles, 2nd owner. I found trans pan leaking soon after I bought it. Service history shows transpan / seal was replaced in 2022 under warranty / TSB. Dealer just replaced it again 2k miles ago and now leaking again. Shaft seal looks dry.

What else could be causing a leak other than improper install / torque of pan bolts? I'm running MHD Stg2 on E40 w/ DP with a factory trans tune. I don't track it and only do some highway pulls occasionally, otherwise it's in a hwy semi-daily commuter.
 

lucky phil

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I have a 21 3.0 with 18k miles, 2nd owner. I found trans pan leaking soon after I bought it. Service history shows transpan / seal was replaced in 2022 under warranty / TSB. Dealer just replaced it again 2k miles ago and now leaking again. Shaft seal looks dry.

What else could be causing a leak other than improper install / torque of pan bolts? I'm running MHD Stg2 on E40 w/ DP with a factory trans tune. I don't track it and only do some highway pulls occasionally, otherwise it's in a hwy semi-daily commuter.
A porous trans housing would be one but pretty unlikely. The pans are very prone to leaking reading here. The other is the machined finish on the base of the trans where the cover seal seats. Trouble with dealer techs is they are now reduced to parts changers. They don't go looking for other causes as a standard practice when they do a task like this. So a careful look at the sealing face on the trans in most cases doesn't happen initially. After a few replacements it often turns out to be something fairly obvious they could have spotted the first time when they take a proper look.
Don't just let them throw another pan at it and send you on your way.
Phil
 
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mxm64

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A porous trans housing would be one but pretty unlikely. The pans are very prone to leaking reading here. The other is the machined finish on the base of the trans where the cover seal seats. Trouble with dealer techs is they are now reduced to parts changers. They don't go looking for other causes as a standard practice when they do a task like this. So a careful look at the sealing face on the trans in most cases doesn't happen initially. After a few replacements it often turns out to be something fairly obvious they could have spotted the first time when they take a proper look.
Don't just let them throw another pan at it and send you on your way.
Phil
Local dealer added UV dye to trans fluid, drove for 40 mi and found the fluid was coming through one or more of the pan bolt holes. They filed a TAS case with Toyo and it was approved for a new transmission replacement under warranty. Just received it back after 2 weeks and so far so good (knock on wood). Two items of concern was the 1 gal of "BMW Coolant" PN 82141-46770-4 used (black cap?) with the existing factory green HT-12 fluid. I read here that fluid is not compatible with the new HT-12? Second item of concern was the 9 qts of Toyo ATF-3+ fluid 83222-28972-0 used. Is this the same as was used from the factory or was a true ZF fluid used instead?
 

lucky phil

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Local dealer added UV dye to trans fluid, drove for 40 mi and found the fluid was coming through one or more of the pan bolt holes. They filed a TAS case with Toyo and it was approved for a new transmission replacement under warranty. Just received it back after 2 weeks and so far so good (knock on wood). Two items of concern was the 1 gal of "BMW Coolant" PN 82141-46770-4 used (black cap?) with the existing factory green HT-12 fluid. I read here that fluid is not compatible with the new HT-12? Second item of concern was the 9 qts of Toyo ATF-3+ fluid 83222-28972-0 used. Is this the same as was used from the factory or was a true ZF fluid used instead?
You shouldn't really mix the G48 fluid with the HT-12 fluid. Will anything nasty happen? probably not in the short term but it's not good practice to mix different coolants. The HT-12 is now used primarily for environmental/recycling reasons from what I can tell so it's probably shite as most eco friendly stuff is these days. The manual specs the ATF3 for the trans so that should be fine and what it came with from the factory I don't know. Other auto users here will be on top of this with oils they use. I'd get the mixed coolant out of there as soon as convenient and flush the system with fresh water and drain again and refill with the HT-12.
Phil
 

mxm64

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You shouldn't really mix the G48 fluid with the HT-12 fluid. Will anything nasty happen? probably not in the short term but it's not good practice to mix different coolants. The HT-12 is now used primarily for environmental/recycling reasons from what I can tell so it's probably shite as most eco friendly stuff is these days. The manual specs the ATF3 for the trans so that should be fine and what it came with from the factory I don't know. Other auto users here will be on top of this with oils they use. I'd get the mixed coolant out of there as soon as convenient and flush the system with fresh water and drain again and refill with the HT-12.
Phil
Actually I think I'm good on the coolant, because why would they even need to add any coolant when replacing the transmission? The trans cooler is air to trans fluid only, correct?

trans cooler hoses.webp


trans cooler 1.webp
 

razorlab

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ATF-3+ fluid 83222-28972 is Lifeguard 8, which is what ZF states to use for the ZF trans.

This is also what I use in my transmission.
 

lucky phil

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Actually I think I'm good on the coolant, because why would they even need to add any coolant when replacing the transmission? The trans cooler is air to trans fluid only, correct?

trans cooler hoses.webp


trans cooler 1.webp
Yes air to oil so I didn't know why they used coolant either just assumed for another reason during the maintenance event at the dealers? Sometimes they mess something up during a job or do something thats not required and need to recover the situation, not sure. Give them a call and ask them. Have a look at the coolant colour. If they have replaced around 1/3 of the system coolant capacity with blue fluid instead of the green then it will look a different colour to the normal bright lime green for sure.
I did see information previously that the coolants are compatible due to the same base constituents however what's technically compatible and what's desirable are different things, hence my advice to dump it and fill with the later bright green coolant. Even if for no other reason than down the track during servicing or inspection for sale or trade in you avoid question marks over the now non std off coloured non green coolant in the car. No doubt someone here will be busily mixing various ratios of blue and green coolant in a glass jar in an attempt to prove me wrong, lol. Better to have the exact same std coloured coolant in their in my view. Some people consider these things and some don't. Up to you.
Phil
 
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razorlab

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I did see information previously that the coolants are compatible due to the same base constituents however what's technically compatible and what's desirable are different things, hence my advice to dump it and fill with the later bright green coolant. Even if for no other reason than down the track during servicing or inspection for sale or trade in you avoid question marks over the now non std off coloured non green coolant in the car. No doubt someone here will be busily mixing various ratios of blue and green coolant in a glass jar in an attempt to prove me wrong, lol. Better to have the exact same std coloured coolant in their in my view. Some people consider these things and some don't. Up to you.
Phil
Dude, it's even in the service docs. I've proven your misinformation wrong with factual evidence countless times already on this forum, while all you post are words, I don't need to do it again.

BTW, how are the rotors on your wifes Mercedes doing?
 
 








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