What did you do to your Supra today?

Kiiro

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I'll get some images under the hood for you but it will be different and easier on a LHD car simply because the the wiring is a much more direct run from the passengers side to the remote battery terminal. On the RHD drive car I ran the wire across the firewall tucked into existing holders and to the positive post and cut a small section from the positive plastic cover so it still clips on with the lead terminal attached then shortened the negative lead and earthed it under a strut bolt on the passengers side (drivers side on LHD car)
Yeah, would love to see images to help guide me - thanks in advance!
 

lucky phil

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Yeah, would love to see images to help guide me - thanks in advance!
So here's some images of a RHD car. Yours should be neater with less wiring. Use some 3M VHB 5952 tape to attach the unit then run the wires through the slots in the plastic skuttle cover and into the void under the quick release cover. Drill a 8mm hole through the plastic panel shown and run the wires under the chassis brace not over as I have done. It's not really a rubbing issue but under is what I wanted to do but got focused on the job I hate the most that is soldering loose wires together and forgot to run the wires under the brace. Make the soldered joints inside the cubby hole or you can use connectors or those soldering heat shrink sleeves which I've not had success with in the past, possibly because I've used cheap ebay ones. I must try some name brand ones. Maybe the LHD cars have an opening here somewhere and you can avoid drilling the hole. Now I have a tool to hold loose wires while I solder them I'll redo the wiring joint and run it under the brace. I've included an image of the tool and it's great to use and cheap on the Bay or Amazon. Clip the stripped wires into the spring loaded tongs and squeeze the bared ends together with the pliers as the strands intermesh and the pliers lock at that point and hold the wire ends securely as you solder. Then remove the pliers.
Attach the red to the hot terminal and the black to a strut mount bolt under the plastic cover or another convenient chassis point that provides a good earth. Remove the hot clip on cover and notch it out to clear the terminal so it clips on as normal. I used some split loom cover mesh but thats optional. The cubby hole cover refits no issues as well. I try and avoid as much drilling and modifications as I possibly can with things like this.
In the 3rd image you can see the negative black wire ( with red stripe from seperating the dual wires) running under the strut cover to the earth point on the strut mount bolt. This cover needs to be removed via the 2 plastic pin retainers.

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Kiiro

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So here's some images of a RHD car. Yours should be neater with less wiring. Use some 3M VHB 5952 tape to attach the unit then run the wires through the slots in the plastic skuttle cover and into the void under the quick release cover. Drill a 8mm hole through the plastic panel shown and run the wires under the chassis brace not over as I have done. It's not really a rubbing issue but under is what I wanted to do but got focused on the job I hate the most that is soldering loose wires together and forgot to run the wires under the brace. Make the soldered joints inside the cubby hole or you can use connectors or those soldering heat shrink sleeves which I've not had success with in the past, possibly because I've used cheap ebay ones. I must try some name brand ones. Maybe the LHD cars have an opening here somewhere and you can avoid drilling the hole. Now I have a tool to hold loose wires while I solder them I'll redo the wiring joint and run it under the brace. I've included an image of the tool and it's great to use and cheap on the Bay or Amazon. Clip the stripped wires into the spring loaded tongs and squeeze the bared ends together with the pliers as the strands intermesh and the pliers lock at that point and hold the wire ends securely as you solder. Then remove the pliers.
Attach the red to the hot terminal and the black to a strut mount bolt under the plastic cover or another convenient chassis point that provides a good earth. Remove the hot clip on cover and notch it out to clear the terminal so it clips on as normal. I used some split loom cover mesh but thats optional. The cubby hole cover refits no issues as well. I try and avoid as much drilling and modifications as I possibly can with things like this.
In the 3rd image you can see the negative black wire ( with red stripe from seperating the dual wires) running under the strut cover to the earth point on the strut mount bolt. This cover needs to be removed via the 2 plastic pin retainers.
Brilliant, thank you so much! Really appreciate the comprehensive instructions! I'll have a go at this when I have some time.
 

FLtrackdays

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J29DB03

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Guy in an Altima was staring at it with his mouth hanging open. My first thought was:

IMG_3154.webp


“More than your credit score can afford, pal.”
 
 
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