Wouldnt Rev after starting

[Dannyvandelft]

You act like i smashed my peddle to the floor everytime when doing the test. I barely push it and nothing. When i found that out i tried a few times to the floor which is on my youtube page. You definitely dont know what your talking about. All i can say is Karma is a son of a bitch and its looking you straight in the eyes buddy. @Dannyvandelft

"Pedal"
It's fly-by-wire. You can push the pedal down all you want, the computer won't add fuel until it senses it's ok to do so.
My Karma is just fine. I doubt the universe will punish me for disagreeing with you lol.

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[Dannyvandelft]

Lol you dont think I tried many times.

By idling, which is wrong. You need to DRIVE to warm up a car.

 

[Paolo]

Wth is going on here? Lol

Guys chill.....

 

[Axix23]

The only thing I could think about if you wanted to idle to warm up the car if your car sits outside and your front windows are frozen and need to defrost before you leave. Lol I would hope most of the guys leave their brand new Supras inside the garage tho. And I agree, I don’t really let it idle to warm up before I drove off. I just drive it until it’s warmed up and then floor it.

 

[piper1]

Let's apply a little logic here,

WHAT!? Yeah, I know.

Anyway, what if one of the parameters is the car measuring gearbox oil temp. Or diff oil temp.
You can idle for a week, still won't heat that up.
You have to DRIVE to warm up a car PROPERLY.
And if the car is waiting for that, before it allows you to rev freely, you're gonna sit there forever.

Use a little common sense, and then apply some common mechanics, maybe a little physics.

This is a part that I've pondered as well. The logical part with that is, to take away something from a chevy ad with the ride handling on the suspension being monitored 1,000/sec, the ecu on getting feed back from sensors shouldn't take 500ft of drive time to kick in, a lot can happen in that time. IF it were a sensor waiting for trans oil to heat up, why would it let you drive off, seeing something is not where the ecu wants it (understand I agree it's not going to heat at idle to operation temp, just using your example) if it were behaving like that they probably would've seen that in winter driving test pre launch and logged limited rpm while driving, not just on start up revs. If you stayed at low rpm not able to accelerate from leaving the grocery store in 500ft or less in a busy intersection to cause an accident, not quite the design I'd want, it very well could be something with the drive by wire, one big thing I miss not having a throttle cable. Sounds too almost like snow mode feature is taking over as that limits engine rev.

 

[Dannyvandelft]

This is a part that I've pondered as well. The logical part with that is, to take away something from a chevy ad with the ride handling on the suspension being monitored 1,000/sec, the ecu on getting feed back from sensors shouldn't take 500ft of drive time to kick in, a lot can happen in that time. IF it were a sensor waiting for trans oil to heat up, why would it let you drive off, seeing something is not where the ecu wants it (understand I agree it's not going to heat at idle to operation temp, just using your example) if it were behaving like that they probably would've seen that in winter driving test pre launch and logged limited rpm while driving, not just on start up revs. If you stayed at low rpm not able to accelerate from leaving the grocery store in 500ft or less in a busy intersection to cause an accident, not quite the design I'd want, it very well could be something with the drive by wire, one big thing I miss not having a throttle cable. Sounds too almost like snow mode feature is taking over as that limits engine rev.

Yeah exactly. The system works (according to the manual) with driving in mind. Not idling. Engine temp could be just one of several sensors it monitors. Trans and diff temps only change while driving, so naturally at idle state those won't change. If that's even monitored, which I don't know obviously not being the engineer. It's all just guessing. But it seems logical. I don't know if it took 500 ft, that's just the distance from my drive to the intersection approximately.
Obviously something changes going from idle to drive, and it gives you full power. Maybe the 30 sec timer doesn't even engage till you go from park to drive. Meaning as long as you stay in park, for let's say, 10 minutes, nothing changes.
I had the hesitant rev, and the reduced power, and it went away just as described in the manual. Going from the drive, to the light, and waiting for it to go green could easily be 30ish seconds

 

[Dannyvandelft]

The only thing I could think about if you wanted to idle to warm up the car if your car sits outside and your front windows are frozen and need to defrost before you leave. Lol I would hope most of the guys leave their brand new Supras inside the garage tho. And I agree, I don’t really let it idle to warm up before I drove off. I just drive it until it’s warmed up and then floor it.

Exactly. That's the proper way.

 

[Snorlax27]

Typical startup routine for me (in my garage) is as follows:

1) Start car.
2) Setup my car play, disable auto off feature, and fasten seatbelt.
3) Wait for engine temp gauge to reach at least 2nd bar.
4) Drive in normal mode for a few miles.
5) Pop it into sport mode once engine oil reaches normal temps and enjoy.

Something about driving off in sport mode from the get go makes me feel uneasy. All fluids need to warm up. Sporty shifts with cold trans fluid is just as bad as WOT with cold engine oil.

I do think that OPs situation, according to the videos, seems a little more than just a programmed cold start protection. Without other people video documenting their issues, there’s no way in determining if this issue is widespread or if people don’t understand the concept of programmed engine protection.

 

[Axix23]

Typical startup routine for me (in my garage) is as follows:

1) Start car.
2) Setup my car play, disable auto off feature, and fasten seatbelt.
3) Wait for engine temp gauge to reach at least 2nd bar.
4) Drive in normal mode for a few miles.
5) Pop it into sport mode once engine oil reaches normal temps and enjoy.

Something about driving off in sport mode from the get go makes me feel uneasy. All fluids need to warm up. Sporty shifts with cold trans fluid is just as bad as WOT with cold engine oil.

I do think that OPs situation, according to the videos, seems a little more than just a programmed cold start protection. Without other people video documenting their issues, there’s no way in determining if this issue is widespread or if people don’t understand the concept of programmed engine protection.

how do you know when engine oil reaches normal temps? Do you have a gauge for the oil temp or you using the secret menu?

 

[Dannyvandelft]

I have mine coded to start on sport mode. Doesn't seem to affect it. It shifts at low rpm just like normal mode, it just won't go to 8th gear.

Oil temp isn't THAT important. Oil works at any temp. Coolant temp is a good indicator for a warm engine and all the metals have expanded etc. Letting you know what's going on.

 

[Snorlax27]

how do you know when engine oil reaches normal temps? Do you have a gauge for the oil temp or you using the secret menu?

Secret menu is a PITA to get to, so I just wait until the engine coolant temp gauge on the far right sits in the middle for a little bit.

My thought process is if the coolant is warm, the oil should follow

 

[Snorlax27]

I have mine coded to start on sport mode. Doesn't seem to affect it. It shifts at low rpm just like normal mode, it just won't go to 8th gear.

Oil temp isn't THAT important. Oil works at any temp. Coolant temp is a good indicator for a warm engine and all the metals have expanded etc. Letting you know what's going on.

I totally agree. Unless you’re running some thick as molasses engine oil, cold starts or driving right after starts shouldn’t be a major issue.

 

[Axix23]

I have mine coded to start on sport mode. Doesn't seem to affect it. It shifts at low rpm just like normal mode, it just won't go to 8th gear.

Oil temp isn't THAT important. Oil works at any temp. Coolant temp is a good indicator for a warm engine and all the metals have expanded etc. Letting you know what's going on.

back in the days, the oil temp had to get hot before the vtec engaged on my gsr swapped civic. Yes I was a ricer, I jumped into the car when it was cold and wot to 8,000 rpms and wonder why my vtec didn’t kick in. Lol

 

[Dannyvandelft]

back in the days, the oil temp had to get hot before the vtec engaged on my gsr swapped civic. Yes I was a ricer, I jumped into the car when it was cold and wot to 8,000 rpms and wonder why my vtec didn’t kick in. Lol

Yeah I had a Honda CRX gen 2 and an Integra Type R back when I still lived in Europe. Loved feeling the V-tec.

 

[Axix23]

Yeah I had a Honda CRX gen 2 and an Integra Type R back when I still lived in Europe. Loved feeling the V-tec.

got any photos? That’s awesome!

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