► Official APEX Wheels Showroom Gallery Thread

FLtrackdays

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Since people are running square setups without issues, I'm planning on going with Option 1 - which is a recommended fitment. I'd just be curious on whether traction control engages a bit more often on similar/identical F/R setups. At a guess, everyone running square setups is track-focused and likely has theirs TCS turned off all the time?
My same concern on track. You absolutely turn off everything but ABS when you feel confident controlling the car at its limits (on track ofc). Big advantage of this Supra being built with that in mind and nice big button on the center console to turn it all off. All the track regulars (like @romanLegion9574, @Rocksandblues and @razorlab - not to leave anyone out but not to piss off too many peeps in these tags either) I'm pretty confident they're not running stock wheels/tires and not getting their traction or diff overriding or kicking on under extreme conditions (regular HPDE driving). I couldn't imagine leaving those electronic nannies on, on track. However, I do want them turned back on in real world everyday street driving with all the nutjobs who don't follow the rules... Speedometer accuracy would be another concern. It's no biggie on track while using some kind of Aims data logger or track app but I wouldn't want that stuff hooked up daily. So great question! And think it applies to this thread. I've never wanted to run my "track" wheels all the time on any other track car. Now I do... 😂 🤦‍♂️
 

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My same concern on track. You absolutely turn off everything but ABS when you feel confident controlling the car at its limits (on track ofc). Big advantage of this Supra being built with that in mind and nice big button on the center console to turn it all off. All the track regulars (like @romanLegion9574, @Rocksandblues and @razorlab - not to leave anyone out but not to piss off too many peeps in these tags either) I'm pretty confident they're not running stock wheels/tires and not getting their traction or diff overriding or kicking on under extreme conditions (regular HPDE driving). I couldn't imagine leaving those electronic nannies on, on track. However, I do want them turned back on in real world everyday street driving with all the nutjobs who don't follow the rules... Speedometer accuracy would be another concern. It's no biggie on track while using some kind of Aims data logger or track app but I wouldn't want that stuff hooked up daily. So great question! And think it applies to this thread. I've never wanted to run my "track" wheels all the time on any other track car. Now I do... 😂 🤦‍♂️
If you can believe it, I only have it one click off on track. I don't turn it fully off. The car is still plenty fast. There are times where it intervenes but almost every time it's a "car just saved me" moment. 98% of the time there is no intervention.

Disclaimer: I've been doing track days for 20+ years. Every single car before the Supra I have run with all traction control off, mainly because older car traction control sucked. So I know how cars feel with no nannies. The opposite of this is starting off track driving and getting TOO reliant on the traction control system. Then you think you are a god at track days. Then you turn it all off and you go slower or worse, crash the car. I see A LOT of Porsche drivers at track days where the TC system is driving the car for them.

I'm also new to East Coast tracks so I like that safety net while I learn the tracks. I can see myself going back to fully off in a couple years or maybe even less.
 

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If you can believe it, I only have it one click off on track. I don't turn it fully off. The car is still plenty fast. There are times where it intervenes but almost every time it's a "car just saved me" moment. 98% of the time there is no intervention.

Disclaimer: I've been doing track days for 20+ years. Every single car before the Supra I have run with all traction control off, mainly because older car traction control sucked. So I know how cars feel with no nannies. The opposite of this is starting off track driving and getting TOO reliant on the traction control system. Then you think you are a god at track days. Then you turn it all off and you go slower or worse, crash the car. I see A LOT of Porsche drivers at track days where the TC system is driving the car for them.

I'm also new to East Coast tracks so I like that safety net while I learn the tracks. I can see myself going back to fully off in a couple years or maybe even less.

We had a new member at our track club with an amazing Ferrari. We told him -newbie- to run with all the nannies ON. They are of course Ferrari fantastic.

Next time down he came with his Gen1 NSX which has no nannies or control. He wrecked it on our uphill esses where you can NOT lift because he was green and did not realize that the nannies were driving his Ferrari
 

romanLegion9574

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If you can believe it, I only have it one click off on track. I don't turn it fully off. The car is still plenty fast. There are times where it intervenes but almost every time it's a "car just saved me" moment. 98% of the time there is no intervention.

Disclaimer: I've been doing track days for 20+ years. Every single car before the Supra I have run with all traction control off, mainly because older car traction control sucked. So I know how cars feel with no nannies. The opposite of this is starting off track driving and getting TOO reliant on the traction control system. Then you think you are a god at track days. Then you turn it all off and you go slower or worse, crash the car. I see A LOT of Porsche drivers at track days where the TC system is driving the car for them.

I'm also new to East Coast tracks so I like that safety net while I learn the tracks. I can see myself going back to fully off in a couple years or maybe even less.

I also run 1 click so its only VSC enabled at the track. I've also noticed that it really has only intervened to save the car. I've also run some sessions with traction off, but I agree, I like having the safety net with VSC on, especially since I've been experimenting with new lines to improve my lap times.

I ran a session with full ON just to see what happens, and it cuts power on the corners too much; lost almost 3-4 seconds, and cost me about 10mph on the main straight.

On the street, I never go all off; the risks outweigh the benefits. VSC only for when I want to drive it spiritedly, and TC on when the roads are busy.
 
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Ok, thanks. Went ahead and purchased the SM-10’s. Cant wait for the VS-5RS. Will probably change to those when they are back in stock.
Thanks for picking up a set!

Any chance for VS-5RS's in a 18x10.5 or 18x10.7 spec? Just like the Titans or TE37s so people who want a square 295 setup can run it no problem
Its not currently in the works, but we may revisit this 18x10.5" option as we did used to offer it in our EC-7R Classic Line Forged wheel design. Having that many fitments for a single chassis is difficult to justify from a production and stocking standpoint, but I'd love to make it work. For now our 18x10 ET30 and 18x11 ET40 square fitments cover quite a bit of ground on the 18" square fitments side of thing although I admit the mods the 18x11 ET40s require can be intimidating.

Somewhat tangential to thread... but I'll show 'em when they're on - so maybe not.

I'm wondering if any physics nerds (or track mechanics) could weigh in on the pros/cons of matched diameter vs. factory difference. I'll elaborate with numbers based on 19" SM-10's because that's what's going on (honestly it's the same 19" so whatever... but subtle differences based on widths):

Option 1: Front (9.5") 265/35 - Rear (11") 305/30 - this makes the rolling diameter almost exactly the same for front and rear: 668mm front and 666mm rear :headbang: Obviously this appeals for a variety of reasons... but mostly because the sidewall height is nearly identical.

Option 2: Front 275/35 & Rear 295/35 - this makes both larger (taller) by a bit - but keeps the difference in size equal to that of the OEM setup. In this case 675mm front and 689mm rear - a difference of 14mm, larger rears.

The factory 19" setup is the same difference, but smaller diameter : 255/35 & 275/55 = 661mm & 675mm F/R (14mm larger rears).

I realize this is mostly academic - I doubt either setup would be a big problem, but I assume all the handling and safety systems are tuned to expect the rear wheels to turn at a rate slightly slower than the fronts at all times due to larger diameter.

Since people are running square setups without issues, I'm planning on going with Option 1 - which is a recommended fitment. I'd just be curious on whether traction control engages a bit more often on similar/identical F/R setups. At a guess, everyone running square setups is track-focused and likely has theirs TCS turned off all the time?

Sorry for the novel. ;)
This reply is turning into a quote fest and I don't want to include all the other replies to your question to keep it compact. They have more experience with this platform on track and have great advice. From what I've seen with the Supra and other (forgive me) BMW based RWD platforms, their traction and stability control systems seem fairly adaptable in terms of the combinations of different front and rear tire diameters and aren't nearly as sensitive to a diameter change (ie overall diameter of wheel + tire) as one might expect. You can still get into trouble if you go way off the mark, but I have supra customers running less aggressive square setups on the street with all the systems on that haven't had issues with traction or stability control.

Tire heights can certainly mess with the speedometer accuracy. But this is to be expected.

Much of my time is spent calculating tire heights and fitments for AWD BMWs like some of the new M3s and M4s. AWD is a whole other nasty tire subject when running staggered fitments that I don't want to bore you all with, but compared to that the RWD cars are generally fairly easy in terms of tire options/heights.

Late to the party... Here's my car with Apex wheels on + 295 square a052s.

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Epic setup! Mind If I add your photos to the 18x11 square thread with notes? Would love to get the alignment specs and fitment notes from you when you have a chance to reply. Thanks for picking up a set!

-Tom
 

Danno

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Thanks for picking up a set!

Epic setup! Mind If I add your photos to the 18x11 square thread with notes? Would love to get the alignment specs and fitment notes from you when you have a chance to reply. Thanks for picking up a set!

-Tom
Yes totally.
Apex 18x11" EC7RS
Yoko A052 295/35/18 Square
Front Camber: -4.2
Rear Camber: -3
Front Total Toe: 0
Rear Total Toe: .3
Caster: 7.x

Fitment is good. I have a steering rack limiter installed to prevent me from hitting on full lock.
Performs very well on the track. I will try 315 square next year. Seems there is plenty of space to fit, rear for sure, fronts maybe just limit the steering rack a little more.

Square setup compared to my other staggered setup gives me way more bite in on corners which is good or bad depending on your driving style.
 
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Yes totally.
Apex 18x11" EC7RS
Yoko A052 295/35/18 Square
Front Camber: -4.2
Rear Camber: -3
Front Total Toe: 0
Rear Total Toe: .3
Caster: 7.x

Fitment is good. I have a steering rack limiter installed to prevent me from hitting on full lock.
Performs very well on the track. I will try 315 square next year. Seems there is plenty of space to fit, rear for sure, fronts maybe just limit the steering rack a little more.

Square setup compared to my other staggered setup gives me way more bite in on corners which is good or bad depending on your driving style.
Excellent, Thanks! I'll get these notes added to that thread. Enjoy those wheels!

-Tom
 
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Apex SM-10
Front
19x9.5 ET 25
275/35-19 Michelin pilot super sports
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19x11 ET 40
305/30-19 Toyo R888R
Stock Suspension
Stock alignment
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6F6A2836-C2AE-4AA5-9370-155C73261B94.jpeg

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Satin Black time! Glad to see these out in the wild. They look great!

Mind if we toss these on our website? Let me know if you'd like any social accounts tagged.

-Tom
 
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Also, these photos remind me:

Would any of you guys want the option to purchase Toyota OE caps for APEX wheel sets on our website? I haven't bothered adding them since most people can just swap their OE caps from the stock wheels over into our wheels and since these cars are newer most of you have access to your OE wheels still. If this is something that the community would want, let me know and I can work on sourcing some.

-Tom
 

baagel

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Also, these photos remind me:

Would any of you guys want the option to purchase Toyota OE caps for APEX wheel sets on our website? I haven't bothered adding them since most people can just swap their OE caps from the stock wheels over into our wheels and since these cars are newer most of you have access to your OE wheels still. If this is something that the community would want, let me know and I can work on sourcing some.

-Tom
Wouldn't hurt to have that option. I had originally intended to swap my Toyota caps over to the VS-5RS, but forgot to ask the shop doing the install to do so. I then sold the OEM wheels shortly after, not to mention the Apex caps grew on me.
 

digicidal

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Apex SM-10
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6F6A2836-C2AE-4AA5-9370-155C73261B94.jpeg
Are you running spacers? Looks like there might be, at least on the front, but just wanted to confirm. Sweet setup! :thumbsup:
 

tanabersx

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Are you running spacers? Looks like there might be, at least on the front, but just wanted to confirm. Sweet setup! :thumbsup:
No spacers, in the front it most probably could hold a 10mm spacer to sit it closer to the fender but there really is no need. Love the stance! Apex got it right with the offsets as expected. 👍🏻
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