trash site

[@Nic3z4]

Great Thread!

Question for the track Goers out there, I just had the Endless MX72 front pads on my car. Put them on with brand new OEM rotors and a generic DOT 4 fluid (stock lines) First track day January this year was excellent. Car performed fantastic, brakes were great. A few weeks later at the next track day, I lost brakes on the first session. Pedal all the way to the floor. (Butthole puckered up nicely). Done for the day. My technician bled my brakes and we did have a little air come out of the right front. After flushing the fluid, this time with Motul RBF 700, I still don't have brakes. Rotor's are gone. Is it possible the pad scorched brand new rotors beyond use? They do have a blueish hue to them after this second track day.

I am looking to replace Pads and Rotors all the way around this time, along with upgraded lines. I think I'm going to go with the Hawk DTC-60's. I would love to use the OEM rotor if I could but worried of having the same issue?

Sponsored

 

[razorlab]

Great Thread!

Question for the track Goers out there, I just had the Endless MX72 front pads on my car. Put them on with brand new OEM rotors and a generic DOT 4 fluid (stock lines) First track day January this year was excellent. Car performed fantastic, brakes were great. A few weeks later at the next track day, I lost brakes on the first session. Pedal all the way to the floor. (Butthole puckered up nicely). Done for the day. My technician bled my brakes and we did have a little air come out of the right front. After flushing the fluid, this time with Motul RBF 700, I still don't have brakes. Rotor's are gone. Is it possible the pad scorched brand new rotors beyond use? They do have a blueish hue to them after this second track day.

I am looking to replace Pads and Rotors all the way around this time, along with upgraded lines. I think I'm going to go with the Hawk DTC-60's. I would love to use the OEM rotor if I could but worried of having the same issue?

No pedal/pedal going to the floor is boiled fluid/air in the lines. If it was pads you would feel pressure but it would feel like wood and not stopping.

Plenty of people using OEM rotors with no issues, myself included.

 

[CSG]

Great Thread!

Question for the track Goers out there, I just had the Endless MX72 front pads on my car. Put them on with brand new OEM rotors and a generic DOT 4 fluid (stock lines) First track day January this year was excellent. Car performed fantastic, brakes were great. A few weeks later at the next track day, I lost brakes on the first session. Pedal all the way to the floor. (Butthole puckered up nicely). Done for the day. My technician bled my brakes and we did have a little air come out of the right front. After flushing the fluid, this time with Motul RBF 700, I still don't have brakes. Rotor's are gone. Is it possible the pad scorched brand new rotors beyond use? They do have a blueish hue to them after this second track day.

I am looking to replace Pads and Rotors all the way around this time, along with upgraded lines. I think I'm going to go with the Hawk DTC-60's. I would love to use the OEM rotor if I could but worried of having the same issue?

Boiled fluid and insufficient pad for track use. Boiled fluid also means there's going to be oil in different parts of the system.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Great Thread!

Question for the track Goers out there, I just had the Endless MX72 front pads on my car. Put them on with brand new OEM rotors and a generic DOT 4 fluid (stock lines) First track day January this year was excellent. Car performed fantastic, brakes were great. A few weeks later at the next track day, I lost brakes on the first session. Pedal all the way to the floor. (Butthole puckered up nicely). Done for the day. My technician bled my brakes and we did have a little air come out of the right front. After flushing the fluid, this time with Motul RBF 700, I still don't have brakes. Rotor's are gone. Is it possible the pad scorched brand new rotors beyond use? They do have a blueish hue to them after this second track day.

I am looking to replace Pads and Rotors all the way around this time, along with upgraded lines. I think I'm going to go with the Hawk DTC-60's. I would love to use the OEM rotor if I could but worried of having the same issue?

Wow ? and so sorry to hear brother! Hence why I bleed more than most. At least on this forum. I had this same issue long ago and now I bleed the ? out of em. Brian is spot on as usual for your reason, air or fluid boil. However I personally doubt it‘s fluid boil unless it sat in your car for a while ?‍

Steel brake lines are easy and affordable. Good thinking!

The rotors, I’m still learning more for this car but really surprised the OEM ones are (were in my case) so stellar. It’s really odd that they put such good $$$ rotors on a stock car. I’m guessing they are lighter (2 piece) than the replacements ones I bought at RockAuto. I‘ve always gotten the cheapest “coated” vented rotors, out of habit, for track. It’s what my previous race team buddies always did for me, down here in FL. That being said, once you’ve cooked them (turned blue) they are done. The guys always pulled em off and replaced mine if/when that happened. It’s not often but it does happen.

If you do stick with your OEM rotors (still thick enough), you could scrub them a bit with low grain sand paper and then clean everything with spray can brake cleaner. This is overkill but would ensure a proper bed in. Piece of mind if I was doing that.

Which leads me to… our Supra 3.0 premium rotor cost have come down so much since these threads started. I just spent $400 bucks for a complete set of new rotors (front and rear). They are going on with my new Hawk DTC60/30 pads next week. It’s mega controversial ? but I want to start fresh. Like you, one bad experience is all it takes for me to go overkill . Time = money and I personally don’t want to screw around.

 

[Joker328]

One correction: Motul RBF 600 wet boiling point is 401 F, not 421 F.

 

[razorlab]

Added brake rotors to the first post!

Name	Front Left #	Front Right #	Size	Rear Left #	Rear Right #	Size	1 or 2 piece?
BMW OEM	34116860911	34116860912	348mm	34216860925	34216860926	345mm	2
Brembo	09D09413	09D09513	348mm	09D09613	09D09613	345mm	2
API	1407-583318	1407-583319	348mm				1
Beck / Arnley	833772	833771	348mm	833751	833751	345mm	1
EBC	RK2065R (set)		348mm	RK2066R (set)		345mm	2
Dynamic Friction	600-31134D	600-31133D	348mm	600-31130	600-31130	345mm	1
Dynamic Friction Geospec	604-31134D	604-31133D	348mm	604-31130	604-31130	345mm	1
Dynamic Friction Geomet				90031130A	90031130A	345mm	2
Centric High Carbon	125.34178	125.34177	348mm	125.34165	125.34165	345mm	1
Centric C-Tek	121.34178	121.34177	348mm	121.34165	121.34165	345mm	1
Zimmermann Formula F	150.2936.32	150.2937.32	348mm	150.2946.32	150.2946.32	345mm	2
Zimmermann Coat Z	150.2936.20	150.2937.20	348mm	150.2946.20	150.2946.20	345mm	1
Fremax	BD3577	BD3578	348mm				1
ATE				424262	424262	345mm	1

 

[Patina]

Which leads me to… our Supra 3.0 premium rotor cost have come down so much since these threads started. I just spent $400 bucks for a complete set of new rotors (front and rear). They are going on with my new Hawk DTC60/30 pads next week. It’s mega controversial ? but I want to start fresh. Like you, one bad experience is all it takes for me to go overkill . Time = money and I personally don’t want to screw around.

Do share where you managed to get a complete set of rotors for $400, especially OEMs.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Do share where you managed to get a complete set of rotors for $400, especially OEMs.

My bad if I implied OEM rotors ?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...ocharged,3450320,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896

Use the site above and pick your car and rotor size per Bryan’s (Razorlab) chart above. Sample of the exact rotor below:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11594889&cc=3450320&pt=1896&jsn=424

I had my fastest track times with these suckers. Great stopping power combined with the Hawk DTC 60/30 pads. They both were completely new. So will see how long they last. I’ll also try another set of Hawk pads after I wear them down paper thin. I don’t have any squeal, like I do on my MX5 with race pads. But they stop great in town or on track.

Stock 2020 Supra Carlo runs these also, down here in FL. So giving credit where credit is due. He just doen’t post much on here. He does however drive incredibly fast on track ?. So these were a no brainer for me. Going back to KISS method for me. Keep It Simple Stupid and focus on driving this fantastic car ?

Summary:
1) Rotors link above
2) Hawk DTC 60/30 pads
3) Castrol SRF fluid

But you can pay more $$$ for any of the above. The fluid is the only area I “splurged”. I probably don’t need wet boiling point temps that high. But it’s cheap and I don’t do a full flush that often. So why not ?‍

 

[decodeddiesel]

Thanks to @razorlab for the suggestion. I installed the Project-µ Club Racer pads yesterday along with Zimmerman Z-coated rotors. It was pouring outside so I wasn't able to do a proper bedding yet, just a few 70-10 threshold brakes to get the coatings off. I am already very impressed with the street manners of these pads, can't wait to do a proper bed-in and get them on the track!

 

[bfirecat]

This list is amazing, thank you for all the hard work.

For street and canyon carving, do rotors matter? Or do I just go for a random set?

 

[FLtrackdays]

This list is amazing, thank you for all the hard work.

For street and canyon carving, do rotors matter? Or do I just go for a random set?

If you have the OEM rotors, they are stellar. Keep them as long as you can. If not, it’s really not worth spending a ton of money on rotors, unless you like the looks. The brake pads will give you the most bang for your buck. More performance = more dust & noise. So a dual pad should do you fine. Hawk HPS are nice but lots of brands make em.

 

[Todday1]

This is a great thread. As mentioned I have ran almost every hawk pad combination front and rear. 30, 50,60,70 For stock calipers 60 front and 30 or 50 rears depending on what you can find were pretty good. But if you can get them to the same front and rear I think you will like it. Mine operate in the 1400f + range per heat painting rotors. And then heat gun after coming off track in the 800 to 900 range. So have been struggling with heat management. Big brakes run in similar range so not much difference but do get a bit better stopping power. With that kit I was able to go to dtc 70 front and rear and it is really good. But still have heat issues and cooking rotors on front. So in general as your times get faster you defiantly will want to have the higher or highest temp brake fluid. I also have a power bleeder will bleed track side at the end of the day if needed so bleed them a lot due to the heat and running 4 sessions plus 2 time trials each day. (Tt3 classing)

 

[kaj]

I would like to add my brakes are performing great! In case anybody is wondering about different setups, from the "norm", that still work:

Hawk DTC60 pads.
Castrol SRF fluid.
Nankang CR-S tires.

That's it.

The car is faster than my track-prepped car was. That's crazy. I was occasionally going into ABS, which tells me these brake pads would probably like a stickier tire. I have learned where the limit is and have adjusted my driving accordingly.
Digging this car, so far.

 

[FLtrackdays]

I would like to add my brakes are performing great! In case anybody is wondering about different setups, from the "norm", that still work:

Hawk DTC60 pads.
Castrol SRF fluid.
Nankang CR-S tires.

That's it.

The car is faster than my track-prepped car was. That's crazy. I was occasionally going into ABS, which tells me these brake pads would probably like a stickier tire. I have learned where the limit is and have adjusted my driving accordingly.
Digging this car, so far.

I’m digging the Maxxis tires with the above pads & fluid. If you get a chance to try em, would love to hear your thoughts.

 

[Todday1]

I have also used a lot of different tires. And agree the Maxxis rc2 handle these pads well. Some of the 200 treadwear you have to adjust your braking a bit as you can easily out brake the tires. I still would recommend these pads. Just need to adjust driving a bit based on tires. The Ar1 s are also a good choice as mentioned as well.

Sponsored