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Race Tracking Your Supra - Information exchange

kaj

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Getting rid of the TPMS sensors was the best thing I did this year. Not having to worry about all that BS is so nice.

No sensors, no problems.
Pretty much. I'm not risking another wasted entry. Luckily, the guys that are close to me in points weren't there, So I still have a pretty decent lead. But, I can't keep doing that.
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FLtrackdays

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Have anyone of you used JB4 on the track ???
Yup = limp mode. Pull back in and turn it off. Thatā€˜s the nice thing about JB4. I don’t doubt Jesse could get it working with a heat exchanger and manifold. But that’s time, money & less track time for all that testing. And…. 2021 on, sheā€˜s so damn fast already. I’m just trying to enjoy all my SPL parts and new Ohlins :)

Pretty much. I'm not risking another wasted entry. Luckily, the guys that are close to me in points weren't there, So I still have a pretty decent lead. But, I can't keep doing that.
That sucks dude! I think you’re our main representation in CA. Showing em how it’s done ? I’d be pissed as well… It is a lot of tire management. Constantly letting air out as the day goes on or I’ll get the same errors as you.

You’re making me think why not just take them off my track set… I forgot one session, was getting wiggly as hell, warning came on, tires were up to almost 50 psi ???ā€ā™‚ Midday I’m bleeding her down to 26 psi so I’m not drifting around corners. I can start at 30 psi (I know thatā€˜s high) on cold mornings. I don’t even attempt these summers anymore. And 24-26psi starting pressure like Evo said is definitely the sweet spot (as the day goes on) for me as well. It’s not like we need them for the track. We’re checking them all the time anyways. So great point!

Not for kaj, but anyone one else getting 40 psi or more right after a session, bleed them back down to 30-36 hot (depending on your tire and car). Your tires can blowup like balloons if you don’t check them often. The main thing being consistency (before and after pressure). They should go back down to your initial 24-26 psi pressure before your next session. That’s how you’ll know your top end pressure. If that makes any sense…
 
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kaj

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Yup = limp mode. Pull back in and turn it off. Thatā€˜s the nice thing about JB4. I don’t doubt Jesse could get it working with a heat exchanger and manifold. But that’s time, money & less track time for all that testing. And…. 2021 on, sheā€˜s so damn fast already. I’m just trying to enjoy all my SPL parts and new Ohlins :)


That sucks dude! I think you’re our main representation in CA. Showing em how it’s done ? I’d be pissed as well… It is a lot of tire management. Constantly letting air out as the day goes on or I’ll get the same errors as you.

You’re making me think why not just take them off my track set… I forgot one session, was getting wiggly as hell, warning came on, tires were up to almost 50 psi ???ā€ā™‚ Midday I’m bleeding her down to 26 psi so I’m not drifting around corners. I can start at 30 psi (I know thatā€˜s high) on cold mornings. I don’t even attempt these summers anymore. And 24-26psi starting pressure like Evo said is definitely the sweet spot (as the day goes on) for me as well. It’s not like we need them for the track. We’re checking them all the time anyways. So great point!

Not for kaj, but anyone one else getting 40 psi or more right after a session, bleed them back down to 30-36 hot (depending on your tire and car). Your tires can blowup like balloons if you don’t check them often. The main thing being consistency (before and after pressure). They should go back down to your initial 24-26 psi pressure before your next session. That’s how you’ll know your top end pressure. If that makes any sense…
Without looking at my notes, I'd say that I start around 25psi and end up 30-32 with a target of 31. I've never seen pressure above 32.
 

Rta95

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Is this a consistent thing? With a JB4 plugged in, the car just goes to limp mode when at the limit? And would you just unplug it all or put it to the stock map?

Yup = limp mode. Pull back in and turn it off. Thatā€˜s the nice thing about JB4. I don’t doubt Jesse could get it working with a heat exchanger and manifold. But that’s time, money & less track time for all that testing. And…. 2021 on, sheā€˜s so damn fast already. I’m just trying to enjoy all my SPL parts and new Ohlins :)


That sucks dude! I think you’re our main representation in CA. Showing em how it’s done ? I’d be pissed as well… It is a lot of tire management. Constantly letting air out as the day goes on or I’ll get the same errors as you.

You’re making me think why not just take them off my track set… I forgot one session, was getting wiggly as hell, warning came on, tires were up to almost 50 psi ???ā€ā™‚ Midday I’m bleeding her down to 26 psi so I’m not drifting around corners. I can start at 30 psi (I know thatā€˜s high) on cold mornings. I don’t even attempt these summers anymore. And 24-26psi starting pressure like Evo said is definitely the sweet spot (as the day goes on) for me as well. It’s not like we need them for the track. We’re checking them all the time anyways. So great point!

Not for kaj, but anyone one else getting 40 psi or more right after a session, bleed them back down to 30-36 hot (depending on your tire and car). Your tires can blowup like balloons if you don’t check them often. The main thing being consistency (before and after pressure). They should go back down to your initial 24-26 psi pressure before your next session. That’s how you’ll know your top end pressure. If that makes any sense…
 

kaj

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Is this a consistent thing? With a JB4 plugged in, the car just goes to limp mode when at the limit? And would you just unplug it all or put it to the stock map?
The JB4 only fools a few sensors in order to get the car to do things it doesn't know it's doing. It thinks it's chugging along just fine. You can't really expect a car to operate safely at the limit, like that. The rest of the car is going to react accordingly (heat/stress/etc) and think it's self-destructing. Hopefully nothing ends up permanently damaged. It sounds like the cars are going into limp mode before anything disastrous happens.
 

FLtrackdays

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Is this a consistent thing? With a JB4 plugged in, the car just goes to limp mode when at the limit? And would you just unplug it all or put it to the stock map?
The JB4 has a map 0. So you don’t have to pull it out so to speak. You just turn it off, goes back to stock. Beautiful thang. My 1st track day ever, I went into limp mode, panicked, texted my mechanic and he asked if I still had the JB4 turned on ??ā€ā™‚. Easy fix and never a problem since then. It still is fun in town for quick sprints.

A free flowing cat makes a big difference power wise. I’m about 5 mph > top speed than a Supra buddy w/out a catless dp on the back straight of Sebring. He has aero, so he’s a bit quicker in our high speed corners. Momentum driving this bad boy Is where it’s at! The bigger HP M cars are not going any faster than us. So horsepower is not an issue. Cutting 300lbs from this supra would be the way to go! Someday….

If it’s something you really want to do regardless, Jesse would be the man. If you don’t live in the subtropics, probably even easier for you. But I wouldn’t attempt it w/out his help. Dude is mega knowledgeable. An aftermarket manifold would also make sense with more power (heat). I’ve got plenty of time I can make up on track & still having a blast. So no rush for me.
 

Rta95

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The JB4 has a map 0. So you don’t have to pull it out so to speak. You just turn it off, goes back to stock. Beautiful thang. My 1st track day ever, I went into limp mode, panicked, texted my mechanic and he asked if I still had the JB4 turned on ??ā€ā™‚. Easy fix and never a problem since then. It still is fun in town for quick sprints.

A free flowing cat makes a big difference power wise. I’m about 5 mph > top speed than a Supra buddy w/out a catless dp on the back straight of Sebring. He has aero, so he’s a bit quicker in our high speed corners. Momentum driving this bad boy Is where it’s at! The bigger HP M cars are not going any faster than us. So horsepower is not an issue. Cutting 300lbs from this supra would be the way to go! Someday….

If it’s something you really want to do regardless, Jesse would be the man. If you don’t live in the subtropics, probably even easier for you. But I wouldn’t attempt it w/out his help. Dude is mega knowledgeable. An aftermarket manifold would also make sense with more power (heat). I’ve got plenty of time I can make up on track & still having a blast. So no rush for me.
Solid information, thank you. I have the JB4 so I definitely plan to rock it for a bit but for track days and autocross I'll just set it to map 0, or talk to Jesse and see what more can he done to avoid the limp mode.
 

Afterfire

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Have anyone of you used JB4 on the track ???
Yes. Competitively tracked 5 or 6 events with none, map 0 and map 2. About 1.5 seconds or so off of similar prepped unlocked cars with tunes on a sub 2 minute course in map2. IMO with how I use it, it offers only a slight benefit over a free flowing cat without a tune but introduces more electronics complexity. That being said, I didnt have any issues develop from having the JB4 on a stock map in a time attack session format in the SE humidity. I just wouldnt push it to do more than the stock maps. On the street its fun to play with the maps, but thats not what I REALLY want and I dont know if Ill keep it on going forward.
 

Rocksandblues

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Have anyone of you used JB4 on the track ???
I did for one season before i figured out that my 21 was actually tunable.

removing tpms was one of the first things i did years ago.
 

Eyelise

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I just got out my Longacre camber/caster tool prior to installing camber plates and got weird readings. I did not have the car lvl just in the garage and no weight in the car but measured -2.6 driver front and rear and -1.5 passenger front and rear. Repeated multiple times. Could the difference really just be suspension compression or uneven ground? Not really what I expected.
 

razorlab

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I just got out my Longacre camber/caster tool prior to installing camber plates and got weird readings. I did not have the car lvl just in the garage and no weight in the car but measured -2.6 driver front and rear and -1.5 passenger front and rear. Repeated multiple times. Could the difference really just be suspension compression or uneven ground? Not really what I expected.
Have you checked to see how flat or not your garage floor is?
 

decodeddiesel

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I just got out my Longacre camber/caster tool prior to installing camber plates and got weird readings. I did not have the car lvl just in the garage and no weight in the car but measured -2.6 driver front and rear and -1.5 passenger front and rear. Repeated multiple times. Could the difference really just be suspension compression or uneven ground? Not really what I expected.
It's very possible. The surface you're using as a reference must be flat and level. I'm really lucky that the people that built my garage took care to ensure my floor was both so I can use my hub stands.
 

Eyelise

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Have you checked to see how flat or not your garage floor is?
No as I stated the car was not lvl'd but that is a huge difference and my garage floor is not that far off.
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