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Race Tracking Your Supra - Information exchange

Rensuhlo

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I'd suggest Project Mu Club Racers for the thousandth time but I've lost energy for it and... more pads for me to keep buying then. ;)
Bryan,

Thank you for your services. Between the FB post and the thread linked..much info. My smol brain needed a bit of a push to comprehend it :)
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Todday1

Todday1

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I have run the hawk dtc60 and dtc30 rear on the stock calipers. This works well. But not sure if you will be happy as your street pads. As they are pretty noisy and can squeal fairly loud. Plus will not last that long on the street. If you are not getting them that hot then the hawk 5.0 plus may be something to look at as they are higher heat range than stock but are a still a decent combo for street and track driving. All the full track pads like the project mu and dtc60 or dtc70 operate in the 1200 to 1400 range. Most street driving you do not get above 300. The 5.0 max at around the 800 mark. So can hold up better for both track and street. So really depends on what level you are running and if you want to try and use for street and track.
 

kaj

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I have run the hawk dtc60 and dtc30 rear on the stock calipers. This works well. But not sure if you will be happy as your street pads. As they are pretty noisy and can squeal fairly loud. Plus will not last that long on the street. If you are not getting them that hot then the hawk 5.0 plus may be something to look at as they are higher heat range than stock but are a still a decent combo for street and track driving. All the full track pads like the project mu and dtc60 or dtc70 operate in the 1200 to 1400 range. Most street driving you do not get above 300. The 5.0 max at around the 800 mark. So can hold up better for both track and street. So really depends on what level you are running and if you want to try and use for street and track.
Good point! Most of us do not daily on our track pads.
 

Rta95

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The very outside of the shoulder on my front left PSS took a beating at the last track day. The rest of the tire looks actually fine, just the very outside. I run 36lbs hot and may have to bump that up a bit. I am also adding camber plates and considering moving to soft on the Eibach front bar. I was told by someone at the track I could remount the fronts swapping sides. Has anyone done this? I’d like to make it a few more track days while I order new wheels and tires.
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Are you considering setting the front sway bar solely to minimize wear or for any other benefit too? I'm asking because I have both the front and rear set to medium (eibach as well). I was wondering if I set the front to soft, if it'd help with even quicker turn in or do the opposite. I feel like turn in can be a bit quicker maybe but need a little more seat time with the sway bars to be sure. But just considering my options ahead of time. My car is all stock besides the sway bars and wider wheels, but stock tires still.
 

Rta95

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I have run the hawk dtc60 and dtc30 rear on the stock calipers. This works well. But not sure if you will be happy as your street pads. As they are pretty noisy and can squeal fairly loud. Plus will not last that long on the street. If you are not getting them that hot then the hawk 5.0 plus may be something to look at as they are higher heat range than stock but are a still a decent combo for street and track driving. All the full track pads like the project mu and dtc60 or dtc70 operate in the 1200 to 1400 range. Most street driving you do not get above 300. The 5.0 max at around the 800 mark. So can hold up better for both track and street. So really depends on what level you are running and if you want to try and use for street and track.
Funny I opened this thread because pads and tires are two things I'm thinking of upgrading next and this is the first post I read. ? Answered the question I was going to ask. What's a pad recommendation that definitely will be better than stock but still will keep the car reasonably streetable?
 

Rta95

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I still owe you (& me) a PS5 or Xbox session. I even bought a sim race seat & wheel mount, have GT, Forza & just bought Assetto Corsa thinking that’ll snap me into some sim’in while it’s over 100 outside ?
I haven't touched it in months, but very down for GT7 Sessions too. ??
 

FLtrackdays

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Good point! Most of us do not daily on our track pads.
I do! ?
Yes they can squeal. I’ve been doing it so long now (on the MX5 and Supra) that I can do force squeals or drive quietly ?. They stop just fine in town.

Bryan,

Thank you for your services. Between the FB post and the thread linked..much info. My smol brain needed a bit of a push to comprehend it :)
Homeboy is a wealth of knowledge! I’d buy project mu in a heartbeat ? However, I still have 2 full sets of Hawk DTC 60/30 pads. So I’ll burn those up 1st. The price is great and they do just fine. I believe Jason (kaj) is also on those. Tod always has great info/suggestions! If you can get by on track with the OEM pads, he‘s right in that the next step would be the Hawk 5.0 plus. You’ll know when it’s time to step up again.

Side note on changing pads. I used to change my pads between track seasons. What a pain in the ass! Now I just keep them on. But I also have a little engine light on my dash all the time as well, that drives some people absolutely crazy. I don’t mind either. CEL or occasional squeal (and dust). I absolutely love the stopping power on track and… you will not wear them down in town.

Get whichever track pad is cheapest. And start thinking of her as a track car. If you’re not ready for that yet, the Hawk 5.0 plus sounds like a solid choice (or project mu or DTC 60/30 - for track season). Yes CSG $1000 pads are probably the best and you can dive bomb safely. They claim you can 10 pedal all around the track. However, I just can’t justify that kind of price. The Hawks DTCs were ~ ½ the price last time I bought them so I got two sets. I can drive safely and quickly on track.

I‘ll do a full brake flush before season with Castrol SRF. Any DOT 4 fluid would work if you bleed them often. Overkill by many but it’s what the race kids (pros) did for me in my S2K, using ATE Super blue. You can visually see the dirty fluid after a few pumps. When it becomes clear you stop. The Castrol has the highest wet temp and you can wait longer between full flushes. I still like to bleed them after 2-4 days of tracking. Feels good getting that dirty fluid out ?
 
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Eyelise

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Are you considering setting the front sway bar solely to minimize wear or for any other benefit too? I'm asking because I have both the front and rear set to medium (eibach as well). I was wondering if I set the front to soft, if it'd help with even quicker turn in or do the opposite. I feel like turn in can be a bit quicker maybe but need a little more seat time with the sway bars to be sure. But just considering my options ahead of time. My car is all stock besides the sway bars and wider wheels, but stock tires still.
My turn in is a bit slow on the med setting but I do not have the rear as you do. Yes in theory you will get better turn in going to soft up front with less tendency to understeer, less heat in the front tires and overall increased grip. Give it a try and let me know. I actually am fine with the way the car is handling but really never tried soft. I am really beating up the front left tire so I am looking for some solutions. I'll try the camber first, stiffer sidewall track tires, then possibly adjust the bar. I may even install the rear bar once the season is over since I have it. Did you try soft on both bars prior to going to medium setting?
 
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razorlab

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My turn in is a bit slow on the med setting but I do not have the rear as you do. Yes in theory you will get better turn in going to soft up front with less tendency to oversteer, less heat in the front tires and overall increased grip. Give it a try and let me know. I actually am fine with the way the car is handling but really never tried soft. I am really beating up the front left tire so I am looking for some solutions. I'll try the camber first, stiffer sidewall track tires, then possibly adjust the bar. I may even install the rear bar once the season is over since I have it. Did you try soft on both bars prior to going to medium setting?
Softer up front can increase oversteer as front will have more grip.

For turn-in sharpness also take a look at your front toe settings. I found toe in causes some vagueness and going back to zero toe in front sharpened things up.

Adding more negative camber in front will be the single biggest helper in decreasing outer tire wear.
 

Eyelise

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Softer up front can increase oversteer as front will have more grip.

For turn-in sharpness also take a look at your front toe settings. I found toe in causes some vagueness and going back to zero toe in front sharpened things up.

Adding more negative camber in front will be the single biggest helper in decreasing outer tire wear.

Correct just a brainfart edited
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