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Suspension mods advice before the season starts!

vvk

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Hey guys, I’m currently on:
-Stock Suspension
-15/20 spacers (not that it matters much)
-stock wheels and BMW star PS4s

Want to work on some suspension mods before I get another set of wheels and tires. Had pretty uneven wear last season on stock pilot Super sports.
So,
SPL/Verkline Front lower control arms or Verus front camber plate?

Getting definitely:
SPL/Verkline Rear Toe Arms with Eccentric Lockout

If I lower:
SPL Front End links

Now regarding lowering:
Is it worth it to either get lowering springs or height adjustable springs? Or just not bother, stay on stock suspension and go with coilovers for the next season? I want to do this gradually and notice difference in each mod while I better myself. Thanks in advance for all your inputs!

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Hey there!

So before I say anything, there's probably going to be a lot of differing opinions, so dont take what I say as gospel lol.

I did something similar to you, making gradual changes to see the feedback. I started completely stock, went to eibach US springs, then HKS HAS springs, then FA510 coils, then the coils + spherical bushings for the caster arm and front LCA.

personally I didnt really mind having to spend more to go from part to part, it was worth it for the learning experience. Although I think there are a few things you could do to make sure a part you buy now can still be used as you go forward.

If you want to stay the gradual route I'd say do something like this for the front end:
•Height adjustable springs
•spherical caster bushing
•verkline LCA (or reuse the OEM arm and press in a spherical bushing)

You'd get better wear overall from some added camber and from replacing the caster bushing since they like to deflect under heavy braking. Additionally you can reuse everything (other than the springs of course) with a future colored setup.

Something to be aware of though is the spring rates for these height adjustable springs are very soft when you compare it to a track coilover kit. And the stock valving will definitely be stressed. I tracked my car for about a season on the HKS springs and noticed my seals were blown at the front end. Ymmv depending on use case but think of the springs as more of a stepping stone.
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So with all that said, pair those with some decent tires, pads, and fluid and I think you'll have a blast. I think you'll also realize real quick "oh shit I need a bucket seat" ?
 

FLtrackdays

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Want to work on some suspension mods before I get another set of wheels and tires. Had pretty uneven wear last season on stock pilot Super sports.
So,
SPL/Verkline Front lower control arms or Verus front camber plate?

Getting definitely:
SPL/Verkline Rear Toe Arms with Eccentric Lockout

If I lower:
SPL Front End links

Now regarding lowering:
Is it worth it to either get lowering springs or height adjustable springs? Or just not bother, stay on stock suspension and go with coilovers for the next season? I want to do this gradually and notice difference in each mod while I better myself. Thanks in advance for all your inputs!
Hate to say it, but in this case cheaper is NOT better.

For negative camber:
If choosing between one or the other, get LCAs. Well worth the cost difference. They move the bottom of the wheel outward rather than tilting the top inward. I did everything ass backward trying to save money and can now say, coulda, shoulda woulda.

Just running 18” wider tires, you’ll inherently lower the car & roll center. Adjustable LCAs will correct (raise) the roll center by adjusting the arm’s geometry. Which reduces the gap and improved stability, cornering grip/responsiveness without requiring stiffer springs or even sway bars. But you should get sway bars if tracking regardless. Big difference from OEM.

Another down side of camber plates alone is by adjusting at the top of the strut, it increase SAI (steering angle inclination). That negatively affects scrub radius, bump steer & makes the car overall more unpredictable. Lastly, if I didn’t already imply it, LCAs will improve how the car handles without putting extra strain on the other parts of the suspension.

If lowering:
Get coilovers. Like you said, the springs will be stiffer (likely linear), you can control dampening, adjust rake and overall more room for adjustments when problems arise.
 

ky.supra

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I had this setup for a season

HKS adjustable springs (factory setting, out the box)
Verus camber plates
18x10 square wheels w/ 275/40/18 all around

then upgraded to this setup last season

Ohlins coilovers revalved with swift springs/swift helpers on stock top hats, 12k/22k spring rate
Verkline: FLCA, caster arms
SPL: Front end links, tie rod ends, rear toe links + lockout kit, rear end links, rear traction arms
Eibach front sway bar


the hks were too soft for my liking but I went with it so I could run 18" square setup until I saved enough to run coilovers with other suspension pieces
 

razorlab

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For negative camber:
If choosing between one or the other, get LCAs. Well worth the cost difference. They move the bottom of the wheel outward rather than tilting the top inward. I did everything ass backward trying to save money and can now say, coulda, shoulda woulda.

Another down side of camber plates alone is by adjusting at the top of the strut, it increase SAI (steering angle inclination). That negatively affects scrub radius, bump steer & makes the car overall more unpredictable. Lastly, if I didn’t already imply it, LCAs will improve how the car handles without putting extra strain on the other parts of the suspension.

I actually disagree with your LCA vs Camber plates view. Just using LCA to add negative camber can influence the caster angle and the caster arm, which can put more stress on the caster arm/bushings. It also changes the track width.

Camber plates don't change track width and less possibility to stress the caster arms.

Both methods change SAI
 

Gabe

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I have had the car for a year and I’m also a track beginner.
I have gone from stock to MSS adjustable springs. (EDIT: and a proper alignment)
The reason was because I just thought I wasn’t ready for a more advanced suspension setup.
The car got lowered and the springs make the car stiffer and feels good on the track for my level. The dampening stays the same so my wife does not complain.

my plan is to run that set up for the rest of the year (7 track weekends) and make a decision on whether to go next level and start messing with the geometry of the suspension.

I know is an additional $tep, but I was overwhelmed with the amount of choice (without understanding what I meant LOL) and went an easy route on that.

on the street the car is perfection. On the track, my butt is not knowledgeable enough yet to know better. ?
 
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Vertex

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I don't know what opinions you may get from others but I'd start doing a little at a time personally. So far I don't have real opportunity to do a lot of track driving throughout the year without driving a pretty great distance to a track.

So far I've just done a front sway bar and I have zero complaints on how this thing performs right now. If you haven't I'd start with getting good tires, do the front sway bar at least and get more seat time before doing more mods.

@razorlab is very knowledgeable and will usually steer you in the right direction. @Traxion has a lot of seat time and is now fairly modded with his vehicle as well and did a little at a time like I mentioned.

I'm not saying there's a wrong way to do it if you want to just jump right into changing out suspension parts though. Really you just need a proper alignment to fix the tire wear issue and can be done without mods unless you're aiming for specific specs you can't reach with stock suspension
 
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Thraxbert

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I think all the track guys would say:

Verkline for any core alignment arm (toe, camber, caster) is a must
SPL or SeemsLegit Garage for traction arms is probably fine
 

FLtrackdays

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I actually disagree with your LCA vs Camber plates view. Just using LCA to add negative camber can influence the caster angle and the caster arm, which can put more stress on the caster arm/bushings. It also changes the track width.

Camber plates don't change track width and less possibility to stress the caster arms.

Both methods change SAI
Absolutely correct ? But if I were to only buy one, that’s the one I would get. I have both, like you.
______________________________________________

Same topic & just to share, my answer to someone asking about my Ohlins vs KW V3 Clubsport 2 way coilovers they purchased (I’ll copy & past it below cuz I gotta run to work. Ran out of time while looking up the differences):

“The KW V3 Clubsport 2 way coilovers are better than my Ohlins. I would have gotten those had I known this car was this damn good and I‘d be tracking her more often. Like you, I thought for sure I‘d be doing less. Whoops…. ? ? After I looked up the KW V3s, I found out they come with camber plates.

And yes you’ll eventually want to get more adjustable parts with those coilovers. I made that mistake. Your alignment will change & you’re going to want to make further adjustments. Otherwise, why buy coilovers at all?

Here’s what you‘d eventually want to get, when you can afford to:

1) Adjustable Front End Links. Needed when the car is lowered. This will happen with the coilovers due to adjustments, wider wheels and just setting her up - as the stock end links will struggle to maintain proper sway bar geometry.
2) Adjustable Rear Toe Arms. Needed to avoid too much toe in that will occur with alignment changes and height adjustments due to fine-tuning rear toe settings.
3) And later: Adjustable Lower Control Arms will give you more extreme negative camber setups. You’ll know you need them when you start wearing your outside tires from driving her faster. And believe me, when you start realizing you can keep up with the nicer Porsches & Vettes, you’re going to push her harder and need that extra camber. But like I said, that’s later ?“
 
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z_03

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im pretty new into tracking. Planning on doing 5+ track days starting 2026. Trying to take advantage of any Black Friday sales. Mostly looking to do handling upgrades. people seem to love KW coilovers but anyone run BC racing ER w stiffer swifts?
 

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As the people with experience have said above. A step wise approach will pay a better dividend, unless you have unlimited funds or no patience.

I started with adjustable springs. They were great to lower the stance of the car and the center of gravity. An excellent step on improving the OEM suspension without breaking the bank that gave me time to drive the car on the track and learn the mechanics of the suspension. Got a pro alignment.

I then went with a front sway bar. I could see the benefits of it for a few track weekends over the stock one. It’s been a year and a half on that combo. Car drives great on the track.

but I got a little faster and more confident which made me push the car harder. That ended in completely destroying the outer tires. In just one day. And I’m a the limit of negative camber on my OEM set up.

Besides changing to better tires, I am going now for a set of coilovers + camber plates. And will finally get around to install the end links in the front and the rear that I had bought a year ago but was advised to keep in the box until I would get more seat time.

Will probably wait on the rear toe arms unless I am advised to get them and kind of complete the set up for more aggressive camber and neutral toe in the back. NOT SURE. @FLtrackdays @razorlab tell me what you think.

5+ track weekends a year is a lot, in a year I’ve done 6 and can barely keep up with all the learning. Either Invest in good coilovers from the get go or wait altogether to save for a good set up.
 

z_03

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As the people with experience have said above. A step wise approach will pay a better dividend, unless you have unlimited funds or no patience.

I started with adjustable springs. They were great to lower the stance of the car and the center of gravity. An excellent step on improving the OEM suspension without breaking the bank that gave me time to drive the car on the track and learn the mechanics of the suspension. Got a pro alignment.

I then went with a front sway bar. I could see the benefits of it for a few track weekends over the stock one. It’s been a year and a half on that combo. Car drives great on the track.

but I got a little faster and more confident which made me push the car harder. That ended in completely destroying the outer tires. In just one day. And I’m a the limit of negative camber on my OEM set up.

Besides changing to better tires, I am going now for a set of coilovers + camber plates. And will finally get around to install the end links in the front and the rear that I had bought a year ago but was advised to keep in the box until I would get more seat time.

Will probably wait on the rear toe arms unless I am advised to get them and kind of complete the set up for more aggressive camber and neutral toe in the back. NOT SURE. @FLtrackdays @razorlab tell me what you think.

5+ track weekends a year is a lot, in a year I’ve done 6 and can barely keep up with all the learning. Either Invest in good coilovers from the get go or wait altogether to save for a good set up.
thanks. I just started this yr and did 4 track days to get a feel for the car. car feels a bit floaty, leading to some understeering. then again that might be my beginner driving style. I wanted to stiffen up the front so def will be getting a front sway bar. idk about the rear yet (mostly bc it's a pain to replace). i just wasn't sure whether springs only vs coilover would be the next move.

but you're right maybe i should take a stepwise approach rather than doing a big suspension change.
 

Gabe

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thanks. I just started this yr and did 4 track days to get a feel for the car. car feels a bit floaty, leading to some understeering. then again that might be my beginner driving style. I wanted to stiffen up the front so def will be getting a front sway bar. idk about the rear yet (mostly bc it's a pain to replace). i just wasn't sure whether springs only vs coilover would be the next move.

but you're right maybe i should take a stepwise approach rather than doing a big suspension change.
I got the same floaty feeling on my 3 first weekends until I took it to some local guy who aligns the car after doing a full interrogation about what you are planning to do with it etc. the floaty feeling was gone after getting a better than stock alignment. Be sure to get one. If you are planning on changing suspension components get an alignment after.
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