The Supra shift knob isn't threaded on it's a "clip fit". You need an adaptor to fit a threaded knob. I made this one which is based on a Raceng adaptor because I used a raceng knob. I Can't remember the thread pitch and dia. Some silly Imperial thread from memory like 3/4 x 18 or something...
No need it's as razorlab pointed out casting marks. In this case as the moulten aluminium flows into the mould it arrives at some locations usually the more intricately shaped at slightly different temperatures and forms tiny boundry markrs, quite normal and nothing to be concerned about. More...
The kind of seller buyers just love, a time waster. Same as people that come around and waste your time looking at a vehicle that they aren't ever going to buy.
It colours that way because it gets hot from working. The area you are looking at is where the coil that operates the injector is. Electrical coils get hot when the duty cycle is high.
Phil
My suggestion is to pull the plugs and have a look at them to see if one is fouling or has been not firing which may be difficult after some time not running so try changing them out. What can happen and does with injected engines I have worked on is if it drops a cylinder due to ignition issues...
You'll never get a perfect colour match with wrapping. Just buy another pair and have them colour match painted and swap them when and if you want a change. They are probably quite cheap and someone mentioned easy to change.
Phil
The green is colour is actory fill and the magenta is retail BMW coolant. They changed the retail coolant colour to match the factory fill some time ago. If you only need a few hundred ML for a one off top up then you can just use some plain deminerised water. The dilution % will be neither here...
Race engines apart I've needed to break in new engines when collecting vehicles from BMW's European delivery centre straight onto the Autobahn twice and a few times from Renault delivery as well Peugeot. Pretty easy. Just hit the Autobahn/Freeway slow lane and periodically let the speed drop...
Like I mentioned in my first post on this be prepared for an argument. It's a tried and true process by everyone from the dealer to Toyota. Just make it as hard as possible and hope you'll go away. This sort of thing just usually makes me more determined to follow it through but we have a low...
Here a quick video of the pulling method. I've seen huge dents removed with the glue method and pullers not slide hammers but this gives you and idea. You dent is pretty easy as it's quite large but shallow by the looks. Like I said there's a lot of dent guys that just wash and repeat what they...
Expert paintless dent removal guys don't even need to get behind the panel these days to pull a dent like that. They glue pads onto the area and pull the dent out. No paint damage either. I've seen youtube video of the whole process on several dents WAY worse than that. It was something to watch...
Ok whatabout if you remove the airbag and buy some small thin walled clear plastic tube from the hardware store that will slide firmly over each post to stiffen them up. You can buy that type of tube in various small sizes and if you buy a size thats slightly too small in ID you can heat it with...
I don't have a wheel in my hand at the moment but I do have an aftermarket one like yours I assume in the workshop. Those posts you have indicated look to be part of the oem horn/airbag spring receiver mounts that are usually transferred over from the oem wheel to the aftermarket wheel during...