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That isn't what I said. Either way, I'm no longer arguing with people on this forum, so carry on with your piggybacks. I do suggest taking a look at the actual ECU tables and strategy though. It's very helpful to know what it's doing if you are going to trick things with a piggyback.

Yea, pretty close for sure, but def not mid engine. 100% agree with the better balance part though. :) All the Japanese tuners prefer the 2.0L dynamic wise.

Not literally, but way closer than the 3.0L. The 2.0L still has a bit of the engine in front of the strut towers.

Correct, one of the big issues with the JB4. I was merely stating that kind of boost at that AFR is bold. That is why you always hear people saying more octane is better with a JB4. It's basically a crutch. The timing in your log looks more like preemptive knock correction, not torque...

You ignition timing looks horrible. Car isn't happy at all. Also, very bold running 14+ AFR with 18psi out the top, which is probably why the timing is bad.

Yea, that is what I have been thinking as well, minus the built engine. If I moved all my aero, MCS suspension over to a 2.0, I bet it would be a threat. Swap some take-off OEM 3.0 front brakes and go to town. Some orgs would class the 2.0L Supra down a class as well. The only open question is...

Same engine basically. B46 just has more emissions related bits. I’m still waiting for a 2.0 Supra to be track prepped like our 3.0’s. I think they would do really well. If I ever lose my 3.0 I think I would go 2.0.

Current oil test. 5 track days on this oil 40 track days total on the car Track day 1 of 5 peak oil temps: 263F Track day 2 of 5 peak oil temps: 250F Track day 3 of 5 peak oil temps: 264F Track day 4 of 5 peak oil temps: 274F Track day 5 of 5 peak oil temps: 252F

I just bought OEM front rotors for $182 each. MSRP is $289 each Fronts https://www.bmwpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/bmw-disc-brake-rotor-front-right-34108858706?c=cT0zNC0xMS02LTg2MC05MTI%3D https://www.bmwpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/bmw-disc-brake-rotor-left-34116860911 Rears...

100% agree. Eibach also makes a rear upper arm that is really nice quality with actual high quality bearings. Turner has real nice front caster arm bushings. Sealed even! I’ll be installing both of these over the winter.

Following up on this. Kudos to SPL, they sent not one, but two replacement arms, no questions asked.

@garudathree has the 1WNR so he can talk more to his experience. He is faster than me with way less power at the same track so that will tell you something about how capable they are. ;). I have the 2WNR. MCS told me it's cheaper to upgrade the 1WNR to 2WR because of the internals. The 2WNR...

@FLtrackdays I actually replicated what @TYRFRYR did. He was the first to install one of these in the Supra and figure out the CAN address stuff, and now he has figured out even more. Lot's of credit to him. @theQuaybee You can get Trans temp over CAN, or over the obd2 port with the new stuff...

Both very capable. Just depends on how you want to tinker. The adjustment in the rear is kind of a pain to get to you, you have to jack up the car. It's either at the top of the strut or bottom, depending on how you mount them. I would go for full coilover conversion in rear, makes things much...

He also likes trees. Especially the ones around Lime Rock. Alright, keep fighting boys. Back to the shadows...

Since I am mistaking this for an airport, I am announcing my departure. I’m taking a much needed break from this forum. I’m becoming more of an asshole because of the insane amount of massive morons on here. Toodles all. See ya all on the flip side.

So, it keeps happening but you aren’t doing anything to solve it? Seems legit.

Yup, all stock rads and exchangers, Wagner intake mani, Pure700 turbo, Triple7 GT4 hood vent, E40 tunes. I didn't do too much logging last year on stock tune, no power mods, no cooling mods, but here is one in 70* ambient later in the year at Lime Rock, 10 laps in:

Guys, I put cheap ass shit tires on my car on just one side, the other side has some quality tires, the car is acting weird now, what could be the issue? The answer is in the riddle. Can you solve it?

disconnect the Flex kit, clear the codes, and see if they come back. I've had some crazy flexray errors when wiring stuff wrong.