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B7F8C3 + B7F8F6 with iDrive "NO SIGNAL" – any known fix?

SilverFox

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Hi everyone,
I have a 2025 GR Supra 3.0 and the iDrive display first showed “NO SIGNAL” and now remains blank, while audio still works.


BimmerLink shows these persistent Headunit High faults:


  • B7F8C3
  • B7F8F6 – HDCP authentication failed

Both faults return immediately after clearing.


Has anyone here seen this combination before, especially B7F8C3 with a blank CID/iDrive display?
I’m mainly trying to determine whether this usually points to the CID/display, APIX/video connection, or the head unit itself.
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Denton

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Just googling around has led me to believe it that you can try doing a reset of iDrive or it could be any of the things you mentioned.

The lvds cable on the display side of things is easy to get to, you could try reseating it. ITS side takes more time but isn't hard.

Or warranty time?
 

BMWAF

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Since it should still be under warranty, it sounds like dealer time, unfortunately.
 
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SilverFox

SilverFox

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Thanks. I already tried the iDrive reboot and also disconnected the battery for over 30 minutes, but neither helped.
I haven’t reseated the display cable yet. I’ll look for a video or guide showing how to access the display-side connector and may try that next.
If anyone knows a good removal guide or video for the Supra display, I’d really appreciate a link.
The car is still under warranty, so I’m also considering having the dealer inspect it if I can’t resolve it myself.
 
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SilverFox

SilverFox

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I reseated the display-side connector, but it still shows “NO SIGNAL.”
I used this video as a reference for removing the display:



If anyone sees anything else I should check on the display side before moving on to the head unit side, please let me know.
 

Razors Edge

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Why are you doing all of this, unless it’s something you did messing with it that caused it, if it’s under warranty? What is actually wrong with people, that’s rhetorical.

The more you mess with something under warranty, the greater chance warranty work is denied because you dicked with it. Take it to the fugging dealer and stop being a tool.
 
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SilverFox

SilverFox

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Why are you doing all of this, unless it’s something you did messing with it that caused it, if it’s under warranty? What is actually wrong with people, that’s rhetorical.

The more you mess with something under warranty, the greater chance warranty work is denied because you dicked with it. Take it to the fugging dealer and stop being a tool.
Fair point. I mainly wanted to determine whether this was a coding/configuration issue before taking it to the dealer.
I’ve now confirmed the HU is reachable, the main CID/APIX coding values look normal, and the faults point to HU-CID communication/HDCP.
I’m not going to disassemble the head unit side any further — I’ll leave the hardware diagnosis to the dealer.
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