Blackvue DR900s-2CH Install Questions

jtsang25

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I don’t see the problem. It’s working as advertised.
Just saying it is a common issue with BMW electronics. Even BMW techs don't recommend it because it has a habit of draining the battery even if you set it to shut off.
 

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Just saying it is a common issue with BMW electronics. Even BMW techs don't recommend it because it has a habit of draining the battery even if you set it to shut off.
Yes I’m aware of the warnings. Are you familiar with the on/off switch in that event?

Having set the dip switches to 12.5vdc effectively shut the system down when the battery reached that voltage. I’ve been in the electronics field for decades. I’m happy with those results.
 
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Yes I’m aware of the warnings. Are you familiar with the on/off switch in that event?

Having set the dip switches to 12.5vdc effectively shut the system down when the battery reached that voltage. I’ve been in the electronics field for decades. I’m happy with those results.
Yes we get that, but you are running a risk to get a battery warning anyways. Enjoy it but I prefer to have no risk of replacing the battery and 16hrs of parked recording. That's why I choose the battery pack.
 

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I just installed the Blackvue 2-ch. I used the ez power module without any problems. It made for a very quick and easy install.
cool

at what voltage level did you set the Power Magic EZ?

edit: 12,5V
 

akasonny

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cool

at what voltage level did you set the Power Magic EZ?

edit: 12,5V
12.5v is safe. A fully-charged AGM battery reads at about 13vdc. Setting the EZ at 12.5v should provide for an early camera shutdown.
 

akasonny

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12.5v is safe. A fully-charged AGM battery reads at about 13vdc. Setting the EZ at 12.5v should provide for an early camera shutdown.
For those who want the convenience of the EZ Power adapter without the worry of battery-drain (assuming you don’t want to trust it), I found an inexpensive, fail-safe option.

The $11 item below, found on Amazon, switches ALL power to the cam off/on:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UR5XBMW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

jtsang25

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For those who want the convenience of the EZ Power adapter without the worry of battery-drain (assuming you don’t want to trust it), I found an inexpensive, fail-safe option.

The $11 item below, found on Amazon, switches ALL power to the cam off/on:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UR5XBMW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Its not that I don't trust it. I've already had to change my battery because of it. BMW doesn't even recommend using these because they have had known issues.
 

akasonny

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Its not that I don't trust it. I've already had to change my battery because of it. BMW doesn't even recommend using these because they have had known issues.
That's your choice.
 

jtsang25

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That's your choice.
My choice for my battery to be affected by something that is known to fail? BMWs have had a history with issues with cameras/and peripherals plugged into the car because the system sees it as parasitic. Ya okay just stop leading other owners down a road of possible problems. But you seem like the person that doesn't listen to logic. So I'm just going to end the it here.
 

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My choice for my battery to be affected by something that is known to fail? BMWs have had a history with issues with cameras/and peripherals plugged into the car because the system sees it as parasitic. Ya okay just stop leading other owners down a road of possible problems. But you seem like the person that doesn't listen to logic. So I'm just going to end the it here.
You seem pretty determined to suck me into some kind of argument here. I'm not biting. You don't like my suggestion? Fine by me!
 

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You seem pretty determined to suck me into some kind of argument here. I'm not biting. You don't like my suggestion? Fine by me!
You would do well to listen to him. There are many threads across the internet documenting that it's a bad idea to install these cameras on BMWs without a battery pack. And there have been several threads on here too. It's pretty much guaranteed that you are going to run into problems. Not if, but when.

I can think of at least 3-4 cases on the forum here where I warned somebody about this, they ignored the warning, then they had to get a new battery and deal with other oddities because the ECU lost its mind.

BTW, setting a power down voltage level based on voltage drop doesn't work either, plenty of people been there done that and had problems. Any parasitic draw on the battery of a modern BMW/Supra will lead to problems.

I don't understand why people get so stubborn about it. Plenty of past mistakes and experience to learn from.
 

akasonny

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You would do well to listen to him. There are many threads across the internet documenting that it's a bad idea to install these cameras on BMWs without a battery pack. And there have been several threads on here too. It's pretty much guaranteed that you are going to run into problems. Not if, but when.

I can think of at least 3-4 cases on the forum here where I warned somebody about this, they ignored the warning, then they had to get a new battery and deal with other oddities because the ECU lost its mind.

BTW, setting a power down voltage level based on voltage drop doesn't work either, plenty of people been there done that and had problems. Any parasitic draw on the battery of a modern BMW/Supra will lead to problems.

I don't understand why people get so stubborn about it. Plenty of past mistakes and experience to learn from.
 

akasonny

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Some in here seem to assume everybody else in here is flying by the seat of their pants. Indeed some in this thread are.

My suggestions are based on sound electrical testing and science. I've been in the electricity/electronics field for 50 years. I'm not about to start caving into rumors and baseless experiences by amateurs now. My results are not based on rumors, third-party accounts or heresay as are other comments in here. I even provided a link to an $11 fail-safe device for those afraid to rely on the EZ device.

This device does work as advertised. It does hibernate at 12.5vdc.(my dip-switch setting). It does shut down at approx. 6 hours (my dip-switch setting).

This concept of "parasitic draw" doesnt appear to hold water either. As example the alarm system draws current anytime the car is locked. And yet nobody is crying "parasitic draw" about that. Disabling wifi on the Blackvue cams reduces current-draw to micro-amps when parking mode is enabled and the active mode is in motion/event detect. Your battery would remain sufficiently charged for years under those circumstances.

I offered sound suggestions based on a lot of hours of sound testing on my device. Those of you who still don't trust it are free to scroll on by. I have nothing to gain either way. In any event I'm moving on from this topic.
 

s219

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Some in here seem to assume everybody else in here is flying by the seat of their pants. Indeed some in this thread are.

My suggestions are based on sound electrical testing and science. I've been in the electricity/electronics field for 50 years. I'm not about to start caving into rumors and baseless experiences by amateurs now. My results are not based on rumors, third-party accounts or heresay as are other comments in here. I even provided a link to an $11 fail-safe device for those afraid to rely on the EZ device.

This device does work as advertised. It does hibernate at 12.5vdc.(my dip-switch setting). It does shut down at approx. 6 hours (my dip-switch setting).

This concept of "parasitic draw" doesnt appear to hold water either. As example the alarm system draws current anytime the car is locked. And yet nobody is crying "parasitic draw" about that. Disabling wifi on the Blackvue cams reduces current-draw to micro-amps when parking mode is enabled and the active mode is in motion/event detect. Your battery would remain sufficiently charged for years under those circumstances.

I offered sound suggestions based on a lot of hours of sound testing on my device. Those of you who still don't trust it are free to scroll on by. I have nothing to gain either way. In any event I'm moving on from this topic.

Who cares about your 50 years of experience? You obviously have no clue about this issue on modern BMWs. Nothing you have written here is even relevant to the system on these cars. A smart person like you should at least be able to do a google search and figure it out. Or just search this forum. You are not the first smart ass to get burned with this issue.

If you think running for 6 hours is OK on a BMW then I suggest you phone ahead to your Toyota dealer and make sure they have a replacement battery in stock and techs that know how to install it and resuscitate your ECU. We'll save a spot for the thread where you whine about waiting 4 weeks and it not being covered under warranty.
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