Brake fluid and pads question

[xkenx1995]

For those of you that have flushed your brake fluid, did you also actuate the ABS? I see some videos doing a flush with that procedure and some without. I'm planning on tracking soon and was wondering if any of you experienced any issues flushing the fluid without the ABS method. Also when changing your rear brake pads, did you reuse the bolts and wear sensor, or did you buy new yield bolts and sensor?

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[nibble]

I do gravity bleed and not bothering with ABS actuation since I do this like once a year at least. - I mean, not as contaminated. I think ABS actuation is needed if you haven't done it in ages. therefore to completely flush out. but correct me if there's other reason.

as for bolts, I do reuse it unless I see fatigue which I haven't seen yet on this car. as for wear sensor, I do have spare just in case I break old and/or I see it is no good. I will reuse until car throws error. But, as I said, have a spare just in case. BTW, I do change brake pads like 3~4 times a year between stock & track pads. so replacing sensor each time will cost me a lot...

 

[ShakaDaKine]

Do you guys know if the brake service mode in Bimmerlink works on our rear brakes? I think it automatically winds back the caliper actuator, rather than using a brake caliper piston tool?

 

[Rocksandblues]

Do you guys know if the brake service mode in Bimmerlink works on our rear brakes? I think it automatically winds back the caliper actuator, rather than using a brake caliper piston tool?

I do not. Will look into that for sure. I use a piston tool.

fwiw I have had to replace a couple bolts now after changing pads several times a season for a couple seasons now. I ordered a couple sets for spares.

I have changed out brake fluid 4 times or so too now so I feel with multiple changes I have gotten 80% of the old stuff out each time. Pedals always feels great, no fluid boiling yet. I have heard very little success activating abs pump with software that WE can buy

 

[razorlab]

Motive bleeder saves time and relationships.

No need to flush ABS unless you run the reservoir dry, don’t do that.

Verus brace + good fluid like Endless or SRF + good pads makes the system feel pretty decent.

Of all the cars I have owned and tracked, the Supra has by far the worst brake feel, but it works well with the right setup.

 

[ShakaDaKine]

Motive bleeder saves time and relationships.

No need to flush ABS unless you run the reservoir dry, don’t do that.

Verus brace + good fluid like Endless or SRF + good pads makes the system feel pretty decent.

Of all the cars I have owned and tracked, the Supra has by far the worst brake feel, but it works well with the right setup.

I've got the Motive bleeder...just need to get the BMW adaptor for it and some replacement bolts for the calipers.

 

[AHP]

I flushed mine with Endless fluid the 'old fashioned' way and had no issues my first track weekend. Took 20-25 minutes. How often are you guys bleeding vs a complete flush? I'm thinking I should preemptively bleed before the next event.

 

[Rocksandblues]

I swap fluid twice a track season

 

[Todday1]

Agree with everything said. No abs cycle needed. I started with gravity bleed but really does not work well on the rears. Get a pump up power bleeder. I suggest motol 660. This is the highest temp fluid for the price. A fluid suction pump helps to suck out master cylinder and then add new fluid

 

[Todday1]

In terms of frequency it depends on how hot you get them. I am running in NASA TT3 level. So brakes get hot fast. I have Verus bake cooling ducts on fronts which goes to the backing plate and have heat painted rotors to measure temps. And am getting to the 1400F levels. So faster you go you can quickly out run the pad temps and then also stress fluid. In my case I bleed off some fluid after about 2 -3 track days.

 

[Todday1]

Other things to watch. The left rear pads are where the traction and stability control modulate and if you do not turn off(completely by holding down button until vsa off light on dash comes up) It will wear out the pads faster on that side. Especially the inside one which is harder to see. Rear pad choices have been harder to find. Z26 power stops are not a bad option for rears until you get into a full track pad. Then hawk has some options but they make a lot of noise and dust for a daily driver. I smoked a set of street pads in one 3 day weekend on the left rear.

 

[xkenx1995]

Agree with everything said. No abs cycle needed. I started with gravity bleed but really does not work well on the rears. Get a pump up power bleeder. I suggest motol 660. This is the highest temp fluid for the price. A fluid suction pump helps to suck out master cylinder and then add new fluid

Any thoughts on Project Mu brake fluid? So my dad is into cars as well and he ordered 4 Rays hubcentric rings for his his new wheels. The package came in and I took in the package and thought hmm this box is a little too heavy for some rings. I open it and they are 4 cans of Project Mu brake fluid! The cans had a mislabel on them that said Rays hubcentric rings. I was planning on just using that because we kept it and shop is sending the right product this time.

 

[xkenx1995]

Also, thank you all for the input. I will buy the torque to yield bolts just in case as well as a wear sensor.

 

[razorlab]

Brake setups can be pretty subjective.

Great example is @Todday1 stating he likes Motul 660. I very much dislike Motul 660 but love Endless RF650 and Castrol SRF. This is not a criticism of his choice whatsoever. If it works for him, all good.

I've been through a bunch of sets of Project Mu Club Racer brake pads and they have been excellent on track for me. I use the same compound front/rear. One thing to note is I currently track with stock power. The great thing about the PMU pads is that they are literally half the price of the CSG pads that everyone loves and uses on track. So far, the PMU pads have worked well for me on a variety of tracks and slowed the car down from 145mph lap after lap, so I currently see no benefit to spend twice as much for CSG pads. The PMU pads also don't sound like a freight train when driving to/from the track.

As far as frequency of bleeding. I agree with @Todday1 here, I only do maintenance bleeds if I put a ton of heat through the fluid at an event, you can usually tell if you do. Most of the time I only do a maintenance bleed every 3-4 events, just because fluid and my time is cheaper than stuffing the car into a wall or someones trunk.

 

[Todday1]

I am sure it is better than stock and price is right?. Just check that it is Dot 4 level / compatible as then it can mix with any of the same. So no harm if it has a better heat range to use it up and then can try motol 660 when you run out

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