Brake fluid

[ThatCaliKid760]

I was told the supra brake fluid notification pops up every 2 years is it recommended to actually drain and replace it even if the reservoir is full to the MAX line or is it safe just to reset the notification

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[lucky phil]

Unless you're doing track work or are unusually hard on brakes or towing something brake fluid needs to be replaced because it becomes water contaminated due to the fluid being hydroscopic. The recognise limit is anything over 2% water contamination. You can buy cheaply from ebay and other outlets a small electronic "pen" type tester which work well and are accurate ( I've personally checked the calibration on them) I check my fluid every 12 months and change the fluid based on that. I use a Motive Products pressure bleeder on all my vehicles. I am happy with how it works.

Phil

 

[ThatCaliKid760]

Unless you're doing track work or are unusually hard on brakes or towing something brake fluid needs to be replaced because it becomes water contaminated due to the fluid being hydroscopic. The recognise limit is anything over 2% water contamination. You can buy cheaply from ebay and other outlets a small electronic "pen" type tester which work well and are accurate ( I've personally checked the calibration on them) I check my fluid every 12 months and change the fluid based on that. I use a Motive Products pressure bleeder on all my vehicles. I am happy with how it works.

Phil

Thanks and that pressure bleeder looks awesome the way I've done it was by myself with a sprayer head off a new bottle I'd attached vinyl tubbing to the sprayer tube and on bleed screw then I manually pumped it by technically siphoning it out with sprayer trigger if that makes any sense lol but I appreciate the feedback

 

[nibble]

It is better to replace it even with daily or non-track driving because brake fluid is hydrophilic. - attracts water and would not give as good performance as it should. remember, even if you avoided 1 inch from the contacting the other car, you avoided an accident. don't get cheap on brake.

 

[lucky phil]

Thanks and that pressure bleeder looks awesome the way I've done it was by myself with a sprayer head off a new bottle I'd attached vinyl tubbing to the sprayer tube and on bleed screw then I manually pumped it by technically siphoning it out with sprayer trigger if that makes any sense lol but I appreciate the feedback

Pressure works better than suction/vacuum. I used the manual and suction method for years with a dedicated vacuum bleeder but the pressure system is far superior thats why professional shops use them. For around $75 or whatever you'd be a fool to yourself for not using one.

Phil

 

[lucky phil]

It is better to replace it even with daily or non-track driving because brake fluid is hydrophilic. - attracts water and would not give as good performance as it should. remember, even if you avoided 1 inch from the contacting the other car, you avoided an accident. don't get cheap on brake.

I think the word you're looking for is Hydrophobic and the whole point to a water contamination tester I mentioned in a previous post is to get an accurate idea of whether or not you actually need to replace the fluid. I've bought brand new fluid in an unopened bottle that was already at 1.5% water contamination so just changing it out doesn't necessarily mean a thing. BTW I test all my fluid at the shop counter before I buy it these days. If it doesn't test zero it doesn't get bought.

Phil

 

[nibble]

I think the word you're looking for is Hydrophobic and the whole point to a water contamination tester I mentioned in a previous post is to get an accurate idea of whether or not you actually need to replace the fluid. I've bought brand new fluid in an unopened bottle that was already at 1.5% water contamination so just changing it out doesn't necessarily mean a thing. BTW I test all my fluid at the shop counter before I buy it these days. If it doesn't test zero it doesn't get bought.

Phil

please check your dictionary... or do google search at least before correcting someone.

Hydrophobic:
https://www.google.com/search?q=hydrophobic

Hydrophilic:
https://www.google.com/search?q=hydrophilic

Brake fluid attracts water. over time, it will introduce water into system more and more. - this is also dependent on surrounding which I do not know OP's surrounding. more water in system will vaporize under the braking making it less effective. why risk if you can stop 1 inch sooner? So, my recommendation is replace after 2 years. but it is up to your choice.

 

[65sohc]

The word you are both looking for is hygroscopic.

 

[rwense]

I second the motive powerbleeder. Definitely invest in one, makes things super easy.

 

[65sohc]

I didn't know you could measure water content in the fluid. That is the best info I have seen as far as determining when to change fluid. I've tracked cars and boiled fluid before (91 300ZX TT at Willow Springs and Laguna Seca) so I know what it feels like. I've had my Supra for 3 1/2 years and 18,000 miles and have never once even come close to heating the brakes. When my reminder light came on I just turned it off. I'll get a brake fluid tester and go by that.

 

[lucky phil]

please check your dictionary... or do google search at least before correcting someone.

Hydrophobic:
https://www.google.com/search?q=hydrophobic

Hydrophilic:
https://www.google.com/search?q=hydrophilic

Brake fluid attracts water. over time, it will introduce water into system more and more. - this is also dependent on surrounding which I do not know OP's surrounding. more water in system will vaporize under the braking making it less effective. why risk if you can stop 1 inch sooner? So, my recommendation is replace after 2 years. but it is up to your choice.

I stand corrected and thanks for the correction. I wonder how and when I made that error. I mean it's meaning quite obvious when you break the word down.

Phil

 

[lucky phil]

The word you are both looking for is hygroscopic.

Totally correct, thats the word. Thanks for that.

Phil

 

[65sohc]

Since my reservoir cap has never been removed I was a little reluctant to do so for fear of introducing moisture but I read that a two minute exposure to the atmosphere is insignificant.

 

[razorlab]

Since my reservoir cap has never been removed I was a little reluctant to do so for fear of introducing moisture but I read that a two minute exposure to the atmosphere is insignificant.

People GROSSLY overstate the hygroscopic nature of brake fluid. Same thing with Ethanol. Omg, water is in the air, run for the hills! Opening your brake fluid reservoir is nothing to fear. People also conflate braking friction performance and boiling fluid. If your fluid boils, it ain't going to be a 1 inch difference in braking. I swear people just make shit up here to sound smart.

 

[lucky phil]

People GROSSLY overstate the hygroscopic nature of brake fluid. Same thing with Ethanol. Omg, water is in the air, run for the hills! Opening your brake fluid reservoir is nothing to fear. People also conflate braking friction performance and boiling fluid. If your fluid boils, it ain't going to be a 1 inch difference in braking. I swear people just make shit up here to sound smart.

Thing is not all reservoirs are totally sealed anyway. Problem with water in the fluid for most people isn't reduced braking because they never use the brakes that hard it's internal corrosion to brake components.

Phil

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