Front sway bar - help me decide please.

kappa_md

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I’ve done the Eibach Pro-Plus system (Eibach ProKit springs / Bilstein B6 & Eibach Front/Rear Sway bars) in my 86 and it handles like a dream ? Best handling car I’ve driven (so far)?

I plan to do the same for the GR Supra! Thanks for the feedback! The 86 (and also the Supra) will be mostly 85-90% street and the rest for track. Can’t wait! ?
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Axix23

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I vote for no strut bar if your a 2020 as the engine bay look 1000000x cleaner without one. If you got a 2021 with the tacky ass strut bar, either powder-coat it, or take that crap off...
 

FlynnZero

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Eibach. I like them for the track so far. I have them on firmest setting all the time, but don't daily. Once installed pretty easy to change holes. Rear tires have to come off to change. fronts can stay on. will need two jacks to keep tension off bars
but i went from mid hole to firmest in about 10 mins at a track day.
Firmest front and rear?
 

Andrew4Supra

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Additional question… are most adding a rear or front sway bar? Or both?

Eg… on vw gti… 95% of owners opt for just a rear bar.
 

Deighvid

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Good discussion here
 

ApexMissingApe

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Additional question… are most adding a rear or front sway bar? Or both?

Eg… on vw gti… 95% of owners opt for just a rear bar.
+1 for the rear sway question. I need less roll but I read that that the rear is a pain in the ass to install.

Will changing the front sway bar without changing the rear make the Supra an oversteering nightmare? (looking for opinions from those with experience on the Supra, not just generally speaking)
 

nibble

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for rear, need to drop subframe. not easy but doable with right tools. shop will charge around $300+.

when used front only - on track - it feels like rear is collapsing or chassis is twisting going around corner. you may not feel this on street but what you feel on the track is emphasized. I would never again drive with mismatched ARBs.

Recommendation, Do both front and rear or don't do it at all.
 

nibble

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for rear, need to drop subframe. not easy but doable with right tools. shop will charge around $300+.

when used front only - on track - it feels like rear is collapsing or chassis is twisting going around corner. you may not feel this on street but what you feel on the track is emphasized. I would never again drive with mismatched ARBs.

Recommendation, Do both front and rear or don't do it at all.

One more thing I should add. when both are changed and set up properly - for cusco, nothing more to set up except install since this is not adjustable - it makes world of difference on track. But on the street, it is compliant almost like stock suspension except when you go over un-even surface like construction zone which is almost everywhere near NYC area with potholes everywhere.
 

VA90

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for rear, need to drop subframe. not easy but doable with right tools. shop will charge around $300+.

when used front only - on track - it feels like rear is collapsing or chassis is twisting going around corner. you may not feel this on street but what you feel on the track is emphasized. I would never again drive with mismatched ARBs.

Recommendation, Do both front and rear or don't do it at all.
I also did both for the same reason. Some people balk at the price/time of installing the rear bar versus the front and so use that as a reason to change only the front. To me, it didn't make that much sense to spend money to stiffen only the front, thereby disrupting the balance of the car.
 

ApexMissingApe

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for rear, need to drop subframe. not easy but doable with right tools. shop will charge around $300+.

when used front only - on track - it feels like rear is collapsing or chassis is twisting going around corner. you may not feel this on street but what you feel on the track is emphasized. I would never again drive with mismatched ARBs.

Recommendation, Do both front and rear or don't do it at all.
Thanks for the insight, Nibble. This car sees a lot of track time so looks like I’ll be doing both.
 

METAL

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Would there be any benefit for a DD on the streets only?
 

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I second the above vote for Eibach.

The Whiteline bar I'm sure is an upgrade, but after talking with them; their bar is a "solid" design bar, which is where the added stiffness comes from while still remaining stock size (24mm). The bar is HEAVY. Anybody who tracks their car, even if it's just autocross knows a car's power to weight ratio is important.

The Eibach bar is 29mm, fits great, has well constructed grease inserts, is adjustable and weighs significantly less (it's a tubular bar) than the Whiteline bar while achieving similar if not greater stiffness. Whiteline is a great company; I just didn't want to add extra weight to the car in order to get the stiffness benefit.
Whiteline is good for sure but agree re: weight. I ran their bars on my FRS with the stiffness pretty high for the track - great product and stiffness was second to none - totally changed the handling characteristics and I was able to put it right where I wanted it, extremely predictable. Downside was aside from being a track car I also dailied it before I picked up my M3, and boy, that rear sway bar kept both wheels within microns of each other. Going sideways up a steep driveway in LA meant I needed momentum or one wheel would be spinning and I'd roll back into the street and look like an absolute clown ?
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