Jacking / Lifting Points

nibble

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Meant to ask.... is the BL-5000SLX wide enough to allow you to actually place the lifting blocks on the lifting points of the Supra? Just watched an assembly video of a guy who has Subaru FRS and his lifting points were wider then the QuickJack could go. Not sure what model QuickJack her got though. Thanks!
Like most BMWs, Supra has plastic protruding part under the car for lift point and these are about 1.5 x 3 inches. block supplied by QJ is wide enough and I use large block. this will be just enough to lift car. so here are my workflow to lift supra up.

1. pull supra out of garage.
2. pull QJ out to side. |QJ| <--CAR-->|QJ|
3. Drive Supra in between QJs.
4. Put Large Blocks on QJ and roughly align it with lifting point.
5. push QJ into place and align large block right below lifting point.
6. lift QJ little by pushing "UP" button and see large blocks are firmly with lifting point.
7. if it's all good, lift to the height you need. (while you can use any height, i'd recommend to lift it at least to 1st locking point for safety.)

It sounds like a lot of steps but once you get in the rhythm, it only take about 10~15 min before you can start working on the car.
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nibble

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Iā€™m not a fan of these as it limits areas of the car to work on.
Not sure what you mean by not enough work space but it gives me plenty of room than if I had to work with jack and jack stand.
20210401_192407.jpg


This was yesterday when I was adding weight to my supra. No space issue at all. Perhaps if I had 2 story garage, 4 post lift would be better but for garage I have, I think it's best for the money.
 

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Like most BMWs, Supra has plastic protruding part under the car for lift point and these are about 1.5 x 3 inches. block supplied by QJ is wide enough and I use large block. this will be just enough to lift car. so here are my workflow to lift supra up.

1. pull supra out of garage.
2. pull QJ out to side. |QJ| <--CAR-->|QJ|
3. Drive Supra in between QJs.
4. Put Large Blocks on QJ and roughly align it with lifting point.
5. push QJ into place and align large block right below lifting point.
6. lift QJ little by pushing "UP" button and see large blocks are firmly with lifting point.
7. if it's all good, lift to the height you need. (while you can use any height, i'd recommend to lift it at least to 1st locking point for safety.)

It sounds like a lot of steps but once you get in the rhythm, it only take about 10~15 min before you can start working on the car.
So everything other than the fluid, and air compressor comes included with the quickjack ? Are the rubber lifting mounts included? Does the rubber boot go over the 1.5x3 lifting point or does it go inside? Thank you all.
 

nibble

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So everything other than the fluid, and air compressor comes included with the quickjack ? Are the rubber lifting mounts included? Does the rubber boot go over the 1.5x3 lifting point or does it go inside? Thank you all.
that's correct. but if you don't have Schrader valve tool, I recommend getting one as valves were not tight from factory. rubber blocks comes in 2 sizes, large and small. its foot prints are same so if you want, you can stack them. these blocks are universal so it will not be fitting inside the lift point. you can get bmw specific lift point "hocky puck" from amazon. something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/imUfer-Alumi...id=1626956836&sprefix=bmw+lift,aps,175&sr=8-2
 

KellyJoe

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So everything other than the fluid, and air compressor comes included with the quickjack ? Are the rubber lifting mounts included? Does the rubber boot go over the 1.5x3 lifting point or does it go inside? Thank you all.
The QJ blocks are all you need. No damage done as you can see the impression of the lifting points here. :thumbsup:
block.jpeg
 

SupaSupra

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that's correct. but if you don't have Schrader valve tool, I recommend getting one as valves were not tight from factory. rubber blocks comes in 2 sizes, large and small. its foot prints are same so if you want, you can stack them. these blocks are universal so it will not be fitting inside the lift point. you can get bmw specific lift point "hocky puck" from amazon. something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/imUfer-Aluminum-adapter-Anodized-Durable/dp/B071H7H8YB/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3V6Z54QZ6HYF&dchild=1&keywords=bmw+lift+puck&qid=1626956836&sprefix=bmw+lift,aps,175&sr=8-2

Awesome! Thank you. Can you give me a link to the Schrader valve tool you use for your setup? thank you again.
 

spta97

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Wanted to say thanks to ChrisD for posting this as it was very helpful.

I have a "low-ish" profile HF jack and had to drive up the fronts on 2x12"s to clear so I could jack the front.

Once I got that on stands, the back was a serious PITA. I had to line up the jack just so at and angle so the handle would be to the side of the reverse light in the bumper.

It's been a while since I worked on a low car and I forgot how you can barely see anything so getting the jack point in the rear was a 15 minute ordeal of lining up the jack and then moving to the side so I could ensure I was in the right spot on the diff.

Nevertheless, possible with the help of the OP.

Thanks!
 

spta97

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Iā€™m at stock suspension with a Pitssburg Low profile jack and thereā€™s no way itā€™ll reach. The edge of the jack is still only at the black plastic guard and about a foot away from the indented area with the bolt.

63A0B97C-0420-45EF-B917-2EB4C656DD9E.jpeg


A77BBA01-2C20-405D-9B97-C7D43109E072.jpeg
Same issue with mine - had to drive the front tires up on 2x12s which gave an extra 1.5" of clearance. That did the trick.
 

yellowman

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put some cut up 2x4s down drive up on them and you should be able to get the jack under. It works for me
 

spta97

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put some cut up 2x4s down drive up on them and you should be able to get the jack under. It works for me
Good idea. Thatā€™s what I had to do but I prefer to use 2x10s or 2x12s. I got an 8 foot board and cut it into 4 - 2 foot pieces back when I hand my E46 M3 (had to drive on all 4).

With the Supra I was able to get away with just the front but it would have been easier to have the back up as well. Car is low even stock and not a lot of room to see.
 

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Seen a few people asking about lifting points for this car (and someone saying you shouldn't jack from the diff), so just to set things straight here are the official jacking points from the Toyota workshop manual.

Full manual can be downloaded here: https://gofile.io/?c=ncDuuU

So basically:
  • Jack from the diff at the rear and from the highlighted circular area at the front.
  • For a 2 post lift, use the obvious plastic pads at the sides of the car.
  • For axle stands - once you've jacked it up using the diff etc, place the axle stands under the plastic pads at the side of the car. Note that if you don't have the proper BMW pad adapter you might damage the plastic a bit with your axle stands (I know I did on previous BMWs). If you want to buy the adapter just search online for something like "BMW Axle Stand Pad".

jacking points.JPG


EDIT: Here's some photos of what both the jacking points actually look like.

FRONT

1.JPG

When the car is up in the air its easy to see this big circular groove that indicated where you should jack from, but when you're laying on the ground looking under it, its not too easy to see.

2.JPG


REAR

Jack from the diff, but not from directly on the fins of the diff cover. Basically just position the jack right behind the fins (not on them) and you'll be in the right spot.

3.JPG


Basically anywhere inside this highlighted area:

4.JPG
Chris, the manual download link is no longer working.
Can you provide a updated link?
Thanks
 

Mason

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I read through the thread as I plan to put my drag radials on today. From my understanding I can jack from the sides? I donā€™t want to potentially ruin the diff..
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