Just got my MkV, after 10yrs of driving EVs

[zrk]

The guys that follow the factory break in are burning oil, the guys that broke in on the track do not burn oil, typically.

Oddly enough, the data does not agree with this. https://www.supramkv.com/threads/low-oil-poll-with-break-in-data.8446/

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[Low flyer]

zrk, I saw that poll and I don't trust it. This is why.

Because, "I drove it like I stole it." Leaves a lot for interpretation. When I break in a engine, I'm methodical about. "Drive it like I stole it.", doesn't really tell us much.

And I believe that engines are engines and rings are rings. Though the materials may be different between manufacturers and engines, the basic principles apply, the rings must seat and the purpose of the crosshatch is to achieve that result.

No one breaks in a lawn mower engine easily. It runs wide open from the very first start.

Winston cup cars, I know, I know, but I still call them cup cars are broken in on the track. So are NHRA cars, desert trucks, stadium trucks, etc.

And I'm not trying to tell anyone how they should do it. I'm just stating how I and many other do it.

I'm not trying to tell anyone how to think, but just to give them something to think about, that's all.

Gil

 

[Low flyer]

Oh, zrk, one more thing. I did quantify that post as, "typically." I wasn't saying it was 100%. There are always anomalies and outliers.

 

[concept]

Congratulations. This is my unsolicited opinion on break in.

I believe that the worst thing that a person can do to a new engine, any engine, is break it in easy. This isn't breaking it in at all. The main thing that needs to happen when breaking in a new engine is that the rings have to seat, meaning that the rings have to wear to the shape of the cylinder. They cannot do that by an easy break in.

The only way that can happen properly is to load the engine, a lot. The rings need to be pushed out against the cylinder and this is accomplished by combustion and pressure, not the spring tension of the rings.

You don't have a large window of time to seat the rings. They are worn down, filed down so to speak by the crosshatch in the cylinder. That crosshatch is achieved by the finish honing operation when the cylinders are bored. Once that crosshatch has worn, you've lost your chance for proper ring to cylinder wall seating (contact).

For the first 400 miles, after about a 5 mile warm up, I never let the rpm get below 4,000 rpm, nor above 6,000 rpm. On the throttle while accelerating and engine breaking while decelerating keeps pressure behind the rings pushing them against the cylinder walls. This is easy to do by shifting in manual mode and rarely using the brakes. During this break in time I never run the engine at a constant rpm. I'm constantly on and off the throttle staying in that 4k to 6k rpm range. A few times I was at 6.5k.

And on one occasion I was at 152 mph for a 5 mile stretch and 143 mph twice for a mile or two.

I then changed the oil and filter at 400 miles. Letting it drain for a week while we had rain and snow, so I wasn't going to drive then anyway.

Read some of the old posts about Supras burning oil and the Supras that don't burn oil. The guys that follow the factory break in are burning oil, the guys that broke in on the track do not burn oil, typically. The guys on the track are constantly on and off the throttle keeping the engine loaded, and consequently loading the rings.

Well, I meticulously followed the factory break-in procedure for my last 3 cars:
2001 C5 Corvette
2014 Mazda 3S GT 2.5
2024 GR Supra.

The Mazda and Supra burn zero oil. The LS1 in the C5...let's just say they burn oil no matter what you do. Remember one thing: Lawnmowers and racers aren't expected to last for over 100,000 miles. Also, the typical break-in procedure discourages using the cruise control, since rpm should vary. The Supra procedure allows up to 100 MPH speeds but I would never hold that or any other speed for long periods of time.

 

[alan7467]

I think we just turned this poor guys intro thread into a break-in debate thread. Maybe we can blend in some oil thread goodness while we’re at it.

 

[6SPDA91]

Congratulations. This is my unsolicited opinion on break in.

I believe that the worst thing that a person can do to a new engine, any engine, is break it in easy. This isn't breaking it in at all. The main thing that needs to happen when breaking in a new engine is that the rings have to seat, meaning that the rings have to wear to the shape of the cylinder. They cannot do that by an easy break in.

The only way that can happen properly is to load the engine, a lot. The rings need to be pushed out against the cylinder and this is accomplished by combustion and pressure, not the spring tension of the rings.

You don't have a large window of time to seat the rings. They are worn down, filed down so to speak by the crosshatch in the cylinder. That crosshatch is achieved by the finish honing operation when the cylinders are bored. Once that crosshatch has worn, you've lost your chance for proper ring to cylinder wall seating (contact).

For the first 400 miles, after about a 5 mile warm up, I never let the rpm get below 4,000 rpm, nor above 6,000 rpm. On the throttle while accelerating and engine breaking while decelerating keeps pressure behind the rings pushing them against the cylinder walls. This is easy to do by shifting in manual mode and rarely using the brakes. During this break in time I never run the engine at a constant rpm. I'm constantly on and off the throttle staying in that 4k to 6k rpm range. A few times I was at 6.5k.

And on one occasion I was at 152 mph for a 5 mile stretch and 143 mph twice for a mile or two.

I then changed the oil and filter at 400 miles. Letting it drain for a week while we had rain and snow, so I wasn't going to drive then anyway.

Read some of the old posts about Supras burning oil and the Supras that don't burn oil. The guys that follow the factory break in are burning oil, the guys that broke in on the track do not burn oil, typically. The guys on the track are constantly on and off the throttle keeping the engine loaded, and consequently loading the rings.

I think my biggest counter to this is we don't know if OP has auto or manual. I'm a huge advocate for properly breaking in a clutch so that wear surfaces mate properly, ideally extending the useful life of the clutch and flywheel.

 

[Gabe]

I think my biggest counter to this is we don't know if OP has auto or manual. I'm a huge advocate for properly breaking in a clutch so that wear surfaces mate properly, ideally extending the useful life of the clutch and flywheel.

I got it AT. I learned to drive with MT when I was a teenager and after 30 years driving up and down the andes mountains had enough of it.

 

[6SPDA91]

I got it AT. I learned to drive with MT when I was a teenager and after 30 years driving up and down the andes mountains had enough of it.

Completely understandable. I will say this... if you make friends with someone that has the MT, do yourself a favor and drive it at least once.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Oh, zrk, one more thing. I did quantify that post as, "typically." I wasn't saying it was 100%. There are always anomalies and outliers.

Definitely us track guys. We buy em and use em. Mine was on track at about 300 miles (only because I had to drive there, lol). She’s running stronger than ever. Now at 10,000 miles. The b58 is robust, tested & broken in before being put in the crate or car. I do go lighter the 1st and last laps.

I think we just turned this poor guys intro thread into a break-in debate thread. Maybe we can blend in some oil thread goodness while we’re at

Hahaha…. So true. People should always do what they feel comfortable with Oil or break in. I don’t use the high mpg oil either

 

[puzzled]

I recommend you get the lower frequency horn OP (~$15 amazon).. car might look good, but if it sounds like a clown people won't take you seriously.. more like people always trying to find flaws in perfection..

Congrats

 

[alan7467]

I got it AT. I learned to drive with MT when I was a teenager and after 30 years driving up and down the andes mountains had enough of it.

I’m a couple years out from my 30 year mark of driving too. I’d be lying if I said I didn’t sometimes wonder if the MT Supra would have been more fun. However, those thoughts never enter my mind when I’m stuck in stop and go traffic for the majority of my 40 mile commute. I also really enjoy the rapid shifts that get more and more aggressive with more throttle. It goes a long way to giving the car some of the dual personality I was looking for.

Hope you enjoy your car, and congrats!

 

[bk5]

I’d be lying if I said I didn’t sometimes wonder if the MT Supra would have been more fun.

Sometimes I wonder if an AT would have been more fun.

Evidence that you can't really make the wrong decision here.

 

[Gabe]

I recommend you get the lower frequency horn OP (~$15 amazon).. car might look good, but if it sounds like a clown people won't take you seriously.. more like people always trying to find flaws in perfection..

Congrats

this is so true. I didn’t know until a couple of days ago and it sounded like a bike I had when I was 12.

I will search for tutorials and a good easy way to add a more serious sound.

 

[Schang105]

Congrats OP! Avoid the dealer at all costs, they mean well but are incompetent. If u can find an Indy mechanic that works on Euro cars, u should be all set.

 

[RenRed2]

The guys that follow the factory break in are burning oil, the guys that broke in on the track do not burn oil, typically.

Utterly inaccurate.

I follow break-in by the book/factory spec. Multiple BMW's here - Germany - All M.

Zero oil issues. Ever.

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