Race Tracking Your Supra - Information exchange

[Eyelise]

Not sure if you saw it a few pages back but I posted the Supra GT4 sway sizes.

26mm front
22mm rear

Funny that you mention the 300%, the “tuner” industry has been doing this for ages… “let’s just take factory data and increase by 250-300%”. You can cross reference the majority of the coilover systems on the market and you will see that they’re not far off from each other. Even some of the watered down high dollar brands are doing so. /endrant
[/QUOTE]

Less aggressive but likely because the GT4 spring rates are quite different than OEM. I imagine you need to consider spring rates when you are messing with the sway bars. I have OEM springs.

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[NINaudio]

Leave traction control on
Sport
Leave in auto and concentrate on the line and listening to the instructor

Full on, or one click off?

This is a track I know somewhat well, so I won't have an instructor, but may have someone from the advanced group go with me for some advice.

 

[NINaudio]

Thanks for all the tips everyone. I'm looking forward to having a blast and beating my previous best time with my old car.

 

[kaj]

Not sure if you saw it a few pages back but I posted the Supra GT4 sway sizes.

26mm front
22mm rear

Funny that you mention the 300%, the “tuner” industry has been doing this for ages… “let’s just take factory data and increase by 250-300%”. You can cross reference the majority of the coilover systems on the market and you will see that they’re not far off from each other. Even some of the watered down high dollar brands are doing so. /endrant

I don't even see anyone that makes the 26 mm front bar. Very interesting That most people are running a stiffer front than even the GT4 car.

 

[romanLegion9574]

Full on, or one click off?

This is a track I know somewhat well, so I won't have an instructor, but may have someone from the advanced group go with me for some advice.

Maybe one click off then. VSC is way less intrusive than TC because they compute the car's slip very differently.

 

[kaj]

Full on, or one click off?

This is a track I know somewhat well, so I won't have an instructor, but may have someone from the advanced group go with me for some advice.

If you click TC once, it's off. Not sure if you feel comfortable doing that, that is up to you. It doesn't seem to upset the car's chassis much but will make the car much slower. Not a big deal if you're not going for lap times.
If you click the "nanny button" (I can't remember exactly what it says on it) once, then it will turn off the "full nanny" experience and leave you with a setting that only intrudes once the car is too far out of sorts to do any good, anyway. Holding that button down turns off everything. As fun as that is, pretty sketchy if you're not used to the car lol

 

[AndyK5]

Good Lord going over 94 pages of this thread took a few days.

23 MT on deposit, should be here in a week or two. I do a lot of track days, like 15+ per year and this is my first Supra.

Will be getting endless fluid flush, LCA and Pro Mu pads, no engine mods/JB4 except an intake, no aero to start with. I'll burn out the stock tires and then some cheap federals while waiting on a square setup.

Need advice on:
- I'll start front camber at -3.5 which is where I felt comfortable with both in GR86 and GRC, what to do with the back? Push it as negative as stock allows? Someone here said its independent so too much neg camber in the back can hurt rear traction?

- When people say Ohlins for Supra on this thread, do they mean Road and track? If MCS 2 way no remote is the top of the scale at 100 (quality, reliability, performance) and stock is the bottom of the scale at 0, what number would Ohlins and Fortune auto would get rated at?

- Fortune coil overs come with camber plates already, maybe get those (if the number given above is not too low) and save money on the LCAs?

- What is a good spring rate to start out with in these cars considering the coilover selection above? I dislike body roll and prefer a slightly pointy setup. Tracks are Buttonwillow and SOW.

- 18 square setup, 275 all around good enough? I like cheap tires more than I like lap times.

- 18 square setup, what is the diff between 10,10.5,11 inch rims except weight and size of tire you can run? Like 275 tire on 10 inch wheel vs 11 inch wheel slightly streched, is there a performance difference?

- 18 square setup, well...what is a good 18 square wheel setup? brand/model? If I can skip spacers it would be better.

- Can I force relarn the TPMS at a low psi so it does not mess with traction on off on track?

- Traction 1 click is traction off, VSC on?

 

[racebuild]

Need advice on:
- I'll start front camber at -3.5 which is where I felt comfortable with both in GR86 and GRC, what to do with the back? Push it as negative as stock allows? Someone here said its independent so too much neg camber in the back can hurt rear traction?

2-2.5 depending on how you like the balance)

- When people say Ohlins for Supra on this thread, do they mean Road and track? If MCS 2 way no remote is the top of the scale at 100 (quality, reliability, performance) and stock is the bottom of the scale at 0, what number would Ohlins and Fortune auto would get rated at?

Ohlins off the shelf valving is not the best, if that is in your range save up a bit and go with an entry level JRZ/MCS. No experience with Fortune.

- Fortune coil overs come with camber plates already, maybe get those (if the number given above is not too low) and save money on the LCAs?

- What is a good spring rate to start out with in these cars considering the coilover selection above? I dislike body roll and prefer a slightly pointy setup. Tracks are Buttonwillow and SOW.

Depends the damper, true coilover rear or divorced, street or r comp tire

- 18 square setup, 275 all around good enough? I like cheap tires more than I like lap times.

Yup. 275/40/18

- 18 square setup, what is the diff between 10,10.5,11 inch rims except weight and size of tire you can run? Like 275 tire on 10 inch wheel vs 11 inch wheel slightly streched, is there a performance difference?

Difference is side wall flex, will affect turn-in/transitions. Tighter sidewall = more “sharp” feel. For a 275 on a 10.5 is ideal.

- 18 square setup, well...what is a good 18 square wheel setup? brand/model? If I can skip spacers it would be better.

Spacers are likely needed depending on ride height/spring perch location. Also to keep the offset/fitment front to rear when running a square setup.

Titan7, Apex are top picks for the price and being forged.

- Can I force relarn the TPMS at a low psi so it does not mess with traction on off on track?

To an extent.

- Traction 1 click is traction off, VSC on?

Yes

 

[racebuild]

When you contact your friction specialist/long time friend for brake pads and he says I got you and this shows up at your door.

All my previous race cars have been on his compounds, he said this is an improved version than what I have used in the past. I get why everyone is raving about CSG pads now, it’s my boys compound!

 

[FLtrackdays]

When you contact your friction specialist/long time friend for brake pads and he says I got you and this shows up at your door.

All my previous race cars have been on his compounds, he said this is an improved version than what I have used in the past. I get why everyone is raving about CSG pads now, it’s my boys compound!

Dude…. can your boy get us a group discount? ?

Great answers above btw. I’ve been on 275/35-18s Maxxis tires & Apex wheels. Love em! Trying Nankangs 275/40s for price this go round. Quick question. Do you bleed your brake fluid after each weekend? Maybe this is an old habit. Not too popular on here. Curious on your habits. Thx amigo

Edit: just spoke to a friend who used CSG pads for the 1st time. Said the pedal feel was fantastic! Why I keep going back to the Hawks, I like the feel. It’s just the $1000 price. Especially when doing this for fun & watching my $$$ so I can afford more track days.

 

[FLtrackdays]

Good Lord going over 94 pages of this thread took a few days.

23 MT on deposit, should be here in a week or two. I do a lot of track days, like 15+ per year and this is my first Supra.

Will be getting endless fluid flush, LCA and Pro Mu pads, no engine mods/JB4 except an intake, no aero to start with. I'll burn out the stock tires and then some cheap federals while waiting on a square setup.

Need advice on:
- I'll start front camber at -3.5 which is where I felt comfortable with both in GR86 and GRC, what to do with the back? Push it as negative as stock allows? Someone here said its independent so too much neg camber in the back can hurt rear traction?

- When people say Ohlins for Supra on this thread, do they mean Road and track? If MCS 2 way no remote is the top of the scale at 100 (quality, reliability, performance) and stock is the bottom of the scale at 0, what number would Ohlins and Fortune auto would get rated at?

- Fortune coil overs come with camber plates already, maybe get those (if the number given above is not too low) and save money on the LCAs?

- What is a good spring rate to start out with in these cars considering the coilover selection above? I dislike body roll and prefer a slightly pointy setup. Tracks are Buttonwillow and SOW.

- 18 square setup, 275 all around good enough? I like cheap tires more than I like lap times.

- 18 square setup, what is the diff between 10,10.5,11 inch rims except weight and size of tire you can run? Like 275 tire on 10 inch wheel vs 11 inch wheel slightly streched, is there a performance difference?

- 18 square setup, well...what is a good 18 square wheel setup? brand/model? If I can skip spacers it would be better.

- Can I force relarn the TPMS at a low psi so it does not mess with traction on off on track?

- Traction 1 click is traction off, VSC on?

Andy, each track car I get into, I say this is the one I’m going to keep her basic and drive to and from the track ? I’m only laughing because we all know there is no such thing. The closer to a track car you get, the more you’re going to need a trailer, etc.

Most BMW track setups are around -2.5 in the rear with toe out. Toe neutral or slightly out up front.

Get LCA if you’re on the fence. You won’t be sorry.

I also kept it simple and bought the only Ohlins available for the Supra in the US. I believe they are called Road and Track. Comes with linear springs and if you‘re tracking, huge difference in your track times with their generic track settings they suggest. Many options to play with. If you want more options, MCS is supported by Jackie Ding and mega popular for our cars.

https://support.apexraceparts.com/hc/en-us/articles/1260802325669-GR-Supra-Wheel-Tire-Fitment-Guide

Shoutout to Apex for the fantastic link above. Loved it so much I bought their wheels.

You’ll get the hang of resetting the TPMs. I read lots of stuff. Nothing beats just doing it again when you start getting really low psi. This is one thing the computer isn’t bad at doing as long as you know how to scroll down and pick summer tire I believe. It’s actually clear and not a lot of confusing choices. My TPMs stay happy all weekend after doing it just once. Usually when I drive off track to go fill the gas cans. Driving around the track usually won’t suffice. Someday I‘ll follow Bryan’s suggestion and rip the damn things out.

Big nanny button. Once click off for sure since you’ve got track experience. Otherwise that dadgum TC light will constantly come on with stickier tires. Burning through your pads prematurely as you know.

Welcome to the community brother! Hope you’ll be a happy and surprised as most of us are with her track capabilities ?

 

[NINaudio]

Well, weather for Sunday is now calling for rain on and off all day. Looks like I'll be leaving all the nannies on. I've never tracked in the rain before.

 

[racebuild]

Dude…. can your boy get us a group discount? ?

Great answers above btw. I’ve been on 275/35-18s Maxxis tires & Apex wheels. Love em! Trying Nankangs 275/40s for price this go round. Quick question. Do you bleed your brake fluid after each weekend? Maybe this is an old habit. Not too popular on here. Curious on your habits. Thx amigo

Edit: just spoke to a friend who used CSG pads for the 1st time. Said the pedal feel was fantastic! Why I keep going back to the Hawks, I like the feel. It’s just the $1000 price. Especially when doing this for fun & watching my $$$ so I can afford more track days.

Haha, maybe ask CSG for a group deal?

Track days/hpde stuff, no... I go based off of pedal feel. Racing, bleed before each event.

Highly recommend a pressure bleeder and a bleeder bottle, search “motive bleeder” get the bmw/euro one. Full bleed in under 10 minutes, one man job.

The price tag for your average track enthusiast is on the higher side. I was on a budget setup when I started my track addiction I ran Porterfield R4’s for years. Very basic setup… pads, bushings, 2 way adjustable dampers, oem square wheels, tires. Got the car to steady state and tracked every other weekend to improve my driving.

Saving money is always good, that money can go elsewhere to develop gains in a different way like a tire pyrometer. Reading the temps and applying that data to your setup/adjustments between sessions/events will give you a good understanding what’s going on and how the car is reacting to changes.

End of the day, as long as you’re enjoying the car and improving your driving skill, that’s all you need… the best mod is the driver mod.

 

[AndyK5]

Car is coming today, Project Mu Clubsport are backorder. What other comparable pads out there? I am gonna try my chance with Carbotechs or Hawks possibly.

 

[kaj]

Car is coming today, Project Mu Clubsport are backorder. What other comparable pads out there? I am gonna try my chance with Carbotechs or Hawks possibly.

I hate to keep saying the same thing over and over and all these threads. Broken record lol.
Personally, I like carboTech. G-Lock is the same but cheaper. I'm not sure if they make pads for our cars yet. When I bought pads, options were limited so I'm running Hawk DTC60. No complaints, They handle all the abuse great.
Also, I think I read that you're looking at putting an intake on the car. I wouldn't suggest it as the stock air box seems to work better than anything else out there unless you're making somewhere north of 500 horsepower.

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