Semi-DIY Ethanol Analyzer w/ JB4 Integration - Thoughts?

[D K]

Hey Folks,

I've recently started tinkering and researching all things JB4. Kevin (YouTube: kern417) published a video about piecing together an ethanol analyzer which is less expensive than buying a commercial flex fuel kit which can run between $295 (Vader) - $500 (BMS/Fuel-It).

Kevin mentioned someone in Bimmerpost that was selling an ethanol analyzer module, wire harness, and fuel line connectors for $80 (shipped). The ethanol sensor is not included but you can basically use any commercial one out there. Apparently, there is a lead wire on the harness which can integrate with JB4 as well.

For $80 bucks, I'd be willing to give it a go...

Has anyone tried this out yet?

Sponsored

 

[zrk]

Every kit is a continental ethanol sensor, some wires, and a little bit of fuel line. The Fuel-It includes a Bluetooth module and an app. Visconti's includes the Zietronix CANBus module and an optional gauge. The kits aren't anything special except for plug and plug.

 

[razorlab]

What @zrk stated. All do the same stuff. Only differences are quality of connections and what not.

I did a write up awhile back as well:https://www.supramkv.com/threads/diy-flex-fuel-kit.17107/#post-265416

 

[D K]

What @zrk stated. All do the same stuff. Only differences are quality of connections and what not.

I did a write up awhile back as well:https://www.supramkv.com/threads/diy-flex-fuel-kit.17107/#post-265416

Thanks man! I agree, they all basically do the same thing.

The only difference is buying an out of the box commercial kit vs. DIY something which can be pieced together at a slightly lower cost.

I was just curious because I searched and didn't find anything pointing to this kit.

 

[Awales74]

they all basically do the same thing.

I see where you're going. They all do basically the same thing BUT they add features you don't need because you have the JB4.

Fuel-It includes a Bluetooth module and an app -- this is redundant if you have the JB4 with bluetooth

Visconti' has the CANBus that I believe is what allows for the feathering the tune to match the E content. A true flex fuel solution. Can't do this with the JB4 -- JB4 only takes the input to display it in the app. And the optional gauge you don't need because you have theJB4 with bluetooth.

 

[D K]

I see where you're going. They all do basically the same thing BUT they add features you don't need because you have the JB4.

Fuel-It includes a Bluetooth module and an app -- this is redundant if you have the JB4 with bluetooth

Visconti' has the CANBus that I believe is what allows for the feathering the tune to match the E content. A true flex fuel solution. Can't do this with the JB4 -- JB4 only takes the input to display it in the app. And the optional gauge you don't need because you have theJB4 with bluetooth.

I guess I'm mainly directing this thread to the JB4 crowd that are primarily concerned about the E content in their gas tanks.

The unlocked tuned folks usually have E content reading integrated into their tunning platforms (MHD, BM3, Ecutek, etc...) which will dynamically tweak tuning parameters based on this figure.

For me, it's just to make sure that I have the correct E content in the tank and that I can titrate E85 or 93 to get the right mix; both for safety and performance reasons.

 

[FLtrackdays]

I guess I'm mainly directing this thread to the JB4 crowd that are primarily concerned about the E content in their gas tanks.

The unlocked tuned folks usually have E content reading integrated into their tunning platforms (MHD, BM3, Ecutek, etc...) which will dynamically tweak tuning parameters based on this figure.

For me, it's just to make sure that I have the correct E content in the tank and that I can titrate E85 or 93 to get the right mix; both for safety and performance reasons.

Great question brother! Highly recommend Bryan’s link above (Razorlab). But I believe he’s using android and no JB4. Still a wealth of knowledge.

Are you planning on tracking or short power burst? If going the endurance route, Jesse would be my go to. Get a custom flex fuel map 6 from him. My desire would be to turn it on for track, burn out the gas and go back to a street map (93 octane) w/ the JB4. I’m guessing most people just stick to that fuel mix and don’t screw around with two maps. Regardless, can’t wait to hear how it turns out for ya!

 

[D K]

Great question brother! Highly recommend Bryan’s link above (Razorlab). But I believe he’s using android and no JB4. Still a wealth of knowledge.

Are you planning on tracking or short power burst? If going the endurance route, Jesse would be my go to. Get a custom flex fuel map 6 from him. My desire would be to turn it on for track, burn out the gas and go back to a street map (93 octane) w/ the JB4. I’m guessing most people just stick to that fuel mix and don’t screw around with two maps. Regardless, can’t wait to hear how it turns out for ya!

The car is a daily driver and has aspirations to one day be a track car. So short power bursts to answer your question.

It doesn't look like str8shot is making this harness anymore so I'm thinking about building my own using an Arduino Nano board using instructions here. There seem to be some bugs with it when it comes to fluctuations in readings but they could be just be build errors or defective hardware.

There's another option with this pre-made ECA on eBay. I haven't seen any reviews about this but it looks pretty solid. This one has an output signal wire that connects to the JB4 box like the Flex It Fuel so that you can read the ethanol content on the app interface.

So now the only thing I need to work out is the fuel line lengths, as @zrk @razorlab says, the ethanol sensor used in most commercial kits are from GM/Continental.

Here's the list of materials for the braided fuel hose/line that I'm proposing to use:

• 4 - straight 6AN hose end female fittings
• 2 - 6AN male to 3/8 EFI fittings
  • 3/8 EFI fitting are for the ends of ethanol sensor
  • 6AN male end connects to 6AN female ends which go to hard fuel lines.
• 2 - 6AN female to 5/16 EFI fittings
  • Hard fuel lines flow from low pressure fuel pump, pass through ethanol content sensor, and then to the hard fuel line to the high pressure pump.

I'll keep chipping away and keep y'all posted.

 

[razorlab]

The car is a daily driver and has aspirations to one day be a track car. So short power bursts to answer your question.

It doesn't look like str8shot is making this harness anymore so I'm thinking about building my own using an Arduino Nano board using instructions here. There seem to be some bugs with it when it comes to fluctuations in readings but they could be just be build errors or defective hardware.

There's another option with this pre-made ECA on eBay. I haven't seen any reviews about this but it looks pretty solid. This one has an output signal wire that connects to the JB4 box like the Flex It Fuel so that you can read the ethanol content on the app interface.

So now the only thing I need to work out is the fuel line lengths, as @zrk @razorlab says, the ethanol sensor used in most commercial kits are from GM/Continental.

Here's the list of materials for the braided fuel hose/line that I'm proposing to use:

• 4 - straight 6AN hose end female fittings
• 2 - 6AN male to 3/8 EFI fittings
  • 3/8 EFI fitting are for the ends of ethanol sensor
  • 6AN male end connects to 6AN female ends which go to hard fuel lines.
• 2 - 6AN female to 5/16 EFI fittings
  • Hard fuel lines flow from low pressure fuel pump, pass through ethanol content sensor, and then to the hard fuel line to the high pressure pump.

I'll keep chipping away and keep y'all posted.

If you use the 360 fittings that I listed in the write up, you don't need any line. You reuse the OEM line.

 

[D K]

If you use the 360 fittings that I listed in the write up, you don't need any line. You reuse the OEM line.

Awesome! At first, I didn't quite understand how it could be reused and then I watched @kern417 video on YouTube where he installed the MHD flex fuel kit using these fittings. You only need to unplug one side of the low pressure fuel line and get to reuse it.

This is great, thanks!

 

[D K]

I bought the fittings, E content sensor, and the E analyzer from ebay. I also got an add-a-fuse kit to power it. All in, I spent about a little less than $250. Not bad for what I need it to do.

As per @razorlab 's DIY, I will use the F47 spot in the fuse box to power it. Keep in mind, I'm not doing a CAN setup and I don't want to touch any wiring near the ECU which is why I'm not tapping power there.

It's all supposed to arrive by Thursday. I'll report back for those that are interested in this. Cheers.

 

[D K]

So here's the setup...

1. JB4 harness with ethanol content analyzer (ECA) wire pinned to position #4 on the 25 pin JB4 harness.
2. ECA from eBay heat shrink-wraped with ethanol content sensor harness attached.
3. Add-a-fuse with two 5 amp fuses which will plug in the F47 spot of the U.S. passenger side fuse box.
4. Precision Raceworks 360 Ethanol fittings which are connected to a GM/Continental ethanol content sensor.
5. Be sure to test for leaks.

Video of Precision Raceworks 360 Ethanol Fittings

Couple things I learned while doing this:

• If you want a clean-ish way to mount the JB4, buy "Everbilt 2 in. Zinc-Plated Double-Wide Corner Brace (2-Pack)" from Home Depot and attach the JB4 to it using velcro pads. Attach the corner brace to the grounding stud by the firewall.
• If you want to tuck everything in the area where the brake booster is, including the ECA, you will need to buy some additional wire to extend the harness wires to the GM/Continental ethanol content sensor.
• Grab some heat shrinks, zip ties, and solder tools.
• Fuse F46 and F47 are NOT mini or micro fuses. These spots on the fuse box are for ATO (regular) fuses so make sure you buy the right add-a-fuse. Here's the one I bought from a local auto parts store: Grote ATO Fuse Add On
• Don't cut corners! Take your time and test fit and lay out how everything will be routed; especially the PR 360 fittings.
• Buy wire loom. It's relatively cheap and it makes everything under the hood nice and tidy.
• Leave the trunk open after pulling the negative battery terminal. Almost closed it until I remembered at the last minute.

Got everything running tonight but it took a lot longer than expected. Thanks again to @razorlab for his DIY writeup.

 

[i3igpete]

• If you want a clean-ish way to mount the JB4, buy "Everbilt 2 in. Zinc-Plated Double-Wide Corner Brace (2-Pack)" from Home Depot and attach the JB4 to it using velcro pads. Attach the corner brace to the grounding stud by the firewall

Do you have a quick picture of how this looks? i was thinking about something similar with a piece of angle iron, but wasn't sure how much space I would have to turn the bolt after it was zip tied up.

Sponsored