Stock motor top mount turbo question?

[cornby]

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[djf]

Ok genius. Here’s pictures proving it. But whatever, do what you want. The rods & pistons are a weak point with added horsepower and torque, the slipping transmission that was upgraded left the motor with slap. But kindly try it and prove me wrong. Can’t wait for your $20,000+ mistake.

Could you share more context around what happened? How many miles on the block before this? Was it caused by “expected” wear and tear for this hp?

 

[slowmk5@]

Ok genius. Here’s pictures proving it. But whatever, do what you want. The rods & pistons are a weak point with added horsepower and torque, the slipping transmission that was upgraded left the motor with slap. But kindly try it and prove me wrong. Can’t wait for your $20,000+ mistake.

If you had just read what I wrote more carefully you would realize that when I get upgraded transmission would be at the point where I would have the engine built (rods/pistons) etc…..

 

[slowmk5@]

Not that I didn’t want to hear the right info but people please read the things I wrote a little more carefully before jumping at me

 

[razorlab]

I can see if you are running high torque and have heavy load on the car at WOT and as soon as the trans slips and the engine free revs, you could potentially chuck a rod.

You can see how quickly things can change in my video of sixth gear leaving the chat and suddenly free revving. Luckily I have a quick right foot from decades of dyno tuning.

 

[ricard_jdm]

I can see if you are running high torque and have heavy load on the car at WOT and as soon as the trans slips and the engine free revs, you could potentially chuck a rod.

You can see how quickly things can change in my video of sixth gear leaving the chat and suddenly free revving. Luckily I have a quick right foot from decades of dyno tuning.

Thats insane how fast it slips! At what HP and torqe was this?

 

[razorlab]

Thats insane how fast it slips! At what HP and torqe was this?

Never been on a dyno but considering what cars it pulls on, probably 620whp+ 550wtq+

I have since reduced boost in 6th gear to try and keep the gearbox alive for now.

 

[Razors Edge]

Never been on a dyno but considering what cars it pulls on, probably 620whp+ 550wtq+

I have since reduced boost in 6th gear to try and keep the gearbox alive for now.

Imagine if you were 650+ hp and closer to 700+ torque what it would do, then imagine the automatic was upgraded to handle that torque off a launch, hence my post above. Boom goes the rods. You can see the bearings weren’t the issue, the forged crank handled it just fine. The rods begged for mercy and decided to kiss the block.

 

[razorlab]

Imagine if you were 650+ hp and closer to 700+ torque what it would do, then imagine the automatic was upgraded to handle that torque off a launch, hence my post above. Boom goes the rods. You can see the bearings weren’t the issue, the forged crank handled it just fine. The rods begged for mercy and decided to kiss the block.

Yup, sudden speed change are the rods worst enemy.

Super fast boost build, clutch slip, etc

 

[Razors Edge]

Yup, sudden speed change are the rods worst enemy.

Super fast boost build, clutch slip, etc

So glad my comment was the dumbest thing ever when it was fact based from a dipshit asking for help. Haha. Glad your engine (due to fast foot reflexes) was safe bro, you understood what was at risk and the assignment.

 

[slowmk5@]

Dipshit that didn’t read my comment carefully lol

 

[Twisted Tuning]

It’s been said, but I will repeat it. If you upgrade the transmission and are running650 hp and not limiting the torque your pistons will go boom. Make sure you have a good tuner that limits torque or just upgrade the pistons and rods now to be safe.

this is not bad advice saying to upgrade everything. however, it's not as black and white as that. The pistons are the weaker of the two (rod and pistons) on the B58 indeed. But its usually almost always a bad detonation event or a tune running the car lean as hell that causes the piston to be hurt before the actual power does.

I've seen to many pics and videos of pistons with holes blown through them from lean AFR and detonation than i would like to admit.

I know on our car, we ran around 800-850whp for 2 to just under 3 years before swapping our built engine in. During that stock engine time it was on both a stock trans and a Pure Stage 2 trans. That stock engine was removed in perfect working order, and still is sitting on my engine stand.

But again, not bad advice you gave to build ahead of time.

Personally I'd stick to a Pure 800/900 or Omega 65 over doing a top-mount kit if what you want is 600 WHP or so. Not much of a point in a top-mount at that power unless you really wanna make your car a show car.

its not really about being a "top mount", as top or bottom mount is just a position technically.

just because you go top mount doesn't mean you have to get the largest turbo possible. full frame turbos are generally more efficient and more reliable. stock frames are convenience though and thats what makes them sell so much.

Not telling anyone to go top mount, but a full frame turbo that's properly sized for a specific power level etc is almost always going to be the better option whether top or bottom mount. A proper 700hp/800hp/900hp rated EFR turbo (full frame) will absolutely spool faster than the P800/900/Omega65 and have better transient response than all every time.

But, that said, i'm not saying either of the stock frames, or omega is bad in their right.

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