
I remember when it was cool to get a turbo timer!! lolIn reality ... As long as the car is warmed up (well into the operating temperature / dash gauge) ... the car will be just fine with some spirited runs to redline from time to time (prior to 1200 miles). Just allow the car and its turbo to cool down (idling for a few minutes or so) prior to shutting the car off.
Totally wrong. Per my Supra tech and Toyota, NO full throttle or RPM's above 4500 for 1200 miles. Period. There is some very bad information on this thread. Read the OWNERS MANUAL.No, boost is good for engine break in. Personally I try to avoid redline, but you should be getting into boost, medium and full throttle are good, along with engine braking.
https://www.supramkv.com/threads/low-oil-poll-with-break-in-data.8446/
Yes, I know what Toyota “recommends”, that’s why OP posted this thread. Did you read the link I posted, or did you just jump in here to feel superior?Totally wrong. Per my Supra tech and Toyota, NO full throttle or RPM's above 4500 for 1200 miles. Period. There is some very bad information on this thread. Read the OWNERS MANUAL.
Amen to that brother.Yes, I know what Toyota “recommends”, that’s why OP posted this thread. Did you read the link I posted, or did you just jump in here to feel superior?
When every aircraft engine builder, automotive engine builder, and racing team recommends breaking in an engine the same way for very explicit reasons, and Toyota recommends the exact opposite, you don’t take it at face value, you ask WHY?
Why do engine builders recommend what they recommend? What specific reasons do they give to back that recommendation? What do the oil burning poll results say?
Why would Toyota recommend the opposite? Is the B58 somehow completely different than every other piston engine designed in the last 100 years, or might there be another factor influencing their recommendation?
I’m an engineer, I’ve written user manuals before. After passing through PR, marketing, and legal, what ends up being sent to the customer looks nothing like what I wrote. You have to take everything the OEM recommends with a big grain of salt, because all of those recommendations are written through a lens of avoiding lawsuits and liability.
It’s the same deal with the shitty 0W20 oil recommendation. That’s an EPA/marketing recommendation, not an engineering recommendation.
The OEM throws out some terrible break-in advice to avoid lawsuits, and a horrible oil recommendation to optimize efficiency, both of which will greatly increase the likelihood of the engine burning oil, and then they throw out an insanely high “normal” limit on how much oil the engine might burn to limit their liability. It’s standard practice for all car manufacturers.

lolI did my first launch at 1201 miles
I am glad you are a engineer. I will take the advice of my Supra technician, who also builds race cars and has worked on pit crews for professional race teams. I am also the service manager at a Toyota dealership. I have access to information that the general public does not. I understand about general liability. I also understand warranties. To each his own.Yes, I know what Toyota “recommends”, that’s why OP posted this thread. Did you read the link I posted, or did you just jump in here to feel superior?
When every aircraft engine builder, automotive engine builder, and racing team recommends breaking in an engine the same way for very explicit reasons, and Toyota recommends the exact opposite, you don’t take it at face value, you ask WHY?
Why do engine builders recommend what they recommend? What specific reasons do they give to back that recommendation? What do the oil burning poll results say?
Why would Toyota recommend the opposite? Is the B58 somehow completely different than every other piston engine designed in the last 100 years, or might there be another factor influencing their recommendation?
I’m an engineer, I’ve written user manuals before. After passing through PR, marketing, and legal, what ends up being sent to the customer looks nothing like what I wrote. You have to take everything the OEM recommends with a big grain of salt, because all of those recommendations are written through a lens of avoiding lawsuits and liability.
It’s the same deal with the shitty 0W20 oil recommendation. That’s an EPA/marketing recommendation, not an engineering recommendation.
The OEM throws out some terrible break-in advice to avoid lawsuits, and a horrible oil recommendation to optimize efficiency, both of which will greatly increase the likelihood of the engine burning oil, and then they throw out an insanely high “normal” limit on how much oil the engine might burn to limit their liability. It’s standard practice for all car manufacturers.