What did you do to your Supra today?

[Rocksandblues]

Another weekend.... another SCCA Time Trial
just starting to go through cameras.

First time on Jefferson track for me. Little used, don't know why?
I enjoyed it. Some goofy turns, VERY hard on brakes.

Video is when i went out in the Advanced run just to get more laps between Time trial slots.

track Equalized a lot of different classes. 2-10th over all (all classes) was under 2 secs.

 

[MKVDevo]

Another weekend.... another SCCA Time Trial
just starting to go through cameras.

First time on Jefferson track for me. Little used, don't know why?
I enjoyed it. Some goofy turns, VERY hard on brakes.

Video is when i went out in the Advanced run just to get more laps between Time trial slots.

track Equalized a lot of different classes. 2-10th over all (all classes) was under 2 secs.

Love seeing this. I haven't been to Summit in a few years, but Jefferson used to be primarily a motorcycle track. We used it for some drift events, and then Porsche clubs started using it as well. Under appreciated track for sure. Some of those turns are pretty gnarly given the limited visibility.

 

[Sereph102889]

Went to install an MST intake n the MAF bolt sheared in the charge pipe haven't been able to extract it either, going back to see if I can get a replacement

I was literally 10mins from finishing up ? disappointed but will see what happens

This same exact thing happened to me on my MST intake. I bought it from Speedindustry and apparently I was missing the "little bag of MAF bolts" that are supposed to come with the intake so I tried to reuse the OEM's which didn't work and broke off. I couldn't extract it either so I had to buy a brand new pipe. Luckily Speedindustry was able to reach out to MST and secured me a replacement pipe so it worked out in the end.

 

[Chappers]

This same exact thing happened to me on my MST intake. I bought it from Speedindustry and apparently I was missing the "little bag of MAF bolts" that are supposed to come with the intake so I tried to reuse the OEM's which didn't work and broke off. I couldn't extract it either so I had to buy a brand new pipe. Luckily Speedindustry was about to reach out to MST and secured me a replacement pipe so it worked out in the end.

Yeah I've reached out to the supplier here in UK and they've been in touch with MST who are looking into it, so fingers crossed they can sort it out, I've been told if approved I should get it w/c 31st oct

 

[Supra_UK_]

Not the most exciting thing I know, but I got some nice heavy duty rubber mats with a custom Japanese flag (yeah I know... I should have asked for the German flag ).

 

[Musa_Hanzo]

Yup. Mighty sexy

 

[JDG520]

Yup. Mighty sexy

Sick car.
I’d have to paint the 91 on that badge red, the blue just looks out of place on that back end of that

 

[Musa_Hanzo]

Kw ddc pnp is simpler butter. Not because its my car but one of the best looking oem wheels with the drop and 15mm spacers all around.

 

[suicidaleggroll]

Installed the SPL rear upper arms, Cusco rear sway, SPL front and rear endlinks, and shortened the front sway to make room for the SPL LCAs. This was as much as I could do without an alignment. I have one scheduled in 2 weeks, so I'll go back in and do the rear toe arms, front LCAs, and tie rod ends then so I'm not driving around for 2 weeks on a jacked up alignment.

No pics yet since the job is only half done, I'll grab some in 2 weeks when I do the rest of the arms.

Dropping the rear subframe sure does suck though. All in all I spent ~6 hours on Sat, 4 hours on Sun, and another 3 hours today on all of this. I'm pretty slow when working on the car compared to some other people, but still, that's a lot.

 

[underdonk]

Did this last week. I've been working on cars for 30+ years and still manage to do stupid shit sometimes...

Somehow I got a socket literally stuck to the car when trying to reinstall my rear cusco tow-hook. All it does is spin and I can't pull it off. lmao

Silver lining is it made a great place to mount my external microphone. lol

I guess I have another project for this winter. Getting this F'in thing off.

Dude you can start a new trend!

 

[Evolution]

Dropping the rear subframe sure does suck though. All in all I spent ~6 hours on Sat, 4 hours on Sun, and another 3 hours today on all of this. I'm pretty slow when working on the car compared to some other people, but still, that's a lot.

Once you are done with the rear subframe dropping, please post up any pointers for us. I will be dropping mine here soon for a sway bar install and would love some do's and dont's.

 

[suicidaleggroll]

Once you are done with the rear subframe dropping, please post up any pointers for us. I will be dropping mine here soon for a sway bar install and would love some do's and dont's.

I'm done with it now, it was only necessary for the rear sway and upper arms which are all done. The other arms I have left to do in a couple weeks should be pretty straight forward.

Cusco's rear sway install doc is a good reference for dropping the subframe:
https://assets.ctfassets.net/fmj32k...22_rear_sway_bar_2020_toyota_gr_supra_a90.pdf

To that I'd just add a few things:
1) There are several more lines you'll want to pop out of their brackets than the couple they mention in steps 5 and 8. Basically, any lines you see, you'll want to pop out of their holders so the spindle/hub/brakes can drop. Brake lines, wheel speed sensors, damper control, all of it. You don't need to actually disconnect them, just pop the lines out of their brackets so they're free to move. Except the damper control, that one does actually need to be unplugged.
2) If you ever plan to swap the upper control arms, do it now. It is so much easier to swap out those arms when the entire subframe is 4" lower, not to mention the bolt on one of the arms that literally can't be removed with the subframe bolted in place.
3) If you are swapping the control arms, put some jack stands under the rear subframe supports (the bottom two bolts marked (12) in Cusco's doc on step 12) to help stabilize it. The subframe gets real wobbly when the whole thing is balanced on a jack on the diff, and its pretty sketchy when it's swinging around teetering on the jack while you're pulling full force trying to break a 135 ft-lb bolt. Also if you're swapping the control arms, go ahead and pull the springs and dampers out. It takes almost no effort at that point and it'll buy you even more room to work, especially when breaking some of the bolts on the spindle.

Other than that, no real surprises, just a lot of work. If you have a rear diffuser, that unfortunately needs to be completely removed as well. The Verus diff cooling plate doesn’t need to be removed though.

 

[J29DB03]

Once you are done with the rear subframe dropping, please post up any pointers for us. I will be dropping mine here soon for a sway bar install and would love some do's and dont's.

By the sounds of it the do is, “do not do it,” and the don’t is, “no, seriously, don’t do it.”

 

[Evolution]

I'm done with it now, it was only necessary for the rear sway and upper arms which are all done. The other arms I have left to do in a couple weeks should be pretty straight forward.

Cusco's rear sway install doc is a good reference for dropping the subframe:
https://assets.ctfassets.net/fmj32k...22_rear_sway_bar_2020_toyota_gr_supra_a90.pdf

To that I'd just add a few things:
1) There are several more lines you'll want to pop out of their brackets than the couple they mention in steps 5 and 8. Basically, any lines you see, you'll want to pop out of their holders so the spindle/hub/brakes can drop. Brake lines, wheel speed sensors, damper control, all of it. You don't need to actually disconnect them, just pop the lines out of their brackets so they're free to move. Except the damper control, that one does actually need to be unplugged.
2) If you ever plan to swap the upper control arms, do it now. It is so much easier to swap out those arms when the entire subframe is 4" lower, not to mention the bolt on one of the arms that literally can't be removed with the subframe bolted in place.
3) If you are swapping the control arms, put some jack stands under the rear subframe supports (the bottom two bolts marked (12) in Cusco's doc on step 12) to help stabilize it. The subframe gets real wobbly when the whole thing is balanced on a jack on the diff, and its pretty sketchy when it's swinging around teetering on the jack while you're pulling full force trying to break a 135 ft-lb bolt. Also if you're swapping the control arms, go ahead and pull the springs and dampers out. It takes almost no effort at that point and it'll buy you even more room to work, especially when breaking some of the bolts on the spindle.

Other than that, no real surprises, just a lot of work. If you have a rear diffuser, that unfortunately needs to be completely removed as well.

Perfect write up! Thank you. I will be doing this on a lift with a trans jack so I got the subframe support handled. Diffuser to be installed at the same time as well as other suspension bits.

By the sounds of it the do is, “do not do it,” and the don’t is, “no, seriously, don’t do it.”

Oh, I am doing it. I dont pay people to work on my cars. If I can completely drop a Vettes front and rear subframe in 8 hours by myself, I think I can handle this minor project.

 

[Sub-MkV]

Installed my favorite wheels, 19 inch Titan 7 TS-5 and burger ? motorsports 10/13mm spacers.